Rob99

In spite of my seemingly best OCD approach to levelling my existing floors before installing wunda overlay boards and UFH, a few months on and I have discovered the engineered click system flooring in the middle of the room is distinctly bouncy and deflects by about 3-5mm when walked over. It seems to be an isolated area, only about 300x300 so must just be a dip in the existing screed which I missed originally..!! If it was around the edge or under the furniture I wouldn't bother but its right where you walk through the room and makes the coffee table rock when you walk past. My dilemma now is how to deal with it......it's impossible to lift just a small section in the middle and I really can't rip the whole floor up so I'm wondering if drilling a hole in the middle and gunning a load of gripfill or something similar under the flooring would solve the problem. Any thoughts appreciated.

Depending on pipe size and output, most UFH is designed at pipe centres of between 125 and 200. Logically it would seem that you need 2 pipe runs between each pair of joists otherwise they'd be at 400 centres. As @Simplysimon says, send a floor plan to Wunda, they're very good.

Thanks Seems quite clear that it falls under PD. I've also checked the original PP and there are no conditions which would disallow a porch. ?

We obtained full planning for our front extension, which is now complete, but are finding that the new front door position on the face of the extension is a bit exposed. Previously the front door was recessed back from the front house wall by about 1.2m and I'm thinking about adding a small porch. Would this new porch be classed as PD (as porches would be normally) or does the new extension change things somewhat and I'd need planning permission (which I suspect they'd refuse) ?

Thanks Peter that's good to hear. I did wonder if I could fit them myself or whether I should ask the worktop supplier if their installation team could do it. The videos make it look really easy and I'm pretty handy with most stuff.

Hi Peter How're your G clips holding up? I've been struggling to work out how to fix my Franke undermount sinks to the quartz worktops we're about to order and these clips just seem so simple. Anyone else used them? Cheers Rob

Update - levelled the floor over the weekend, all went really well. Very impressed with the setcrete compound, would definitely use it again. It was quite good at levelling itself and only needed a little bit of trowelling into corners and where it was only a very thin layer near the door. SWMBO's dead impressed with the floor now and at how quick it dried and today I laid the Wunda overlay boards and just finished the pipe circuit now. Now for the lounge!! Thanks for the advice ?

Sounds like 200mm spacing would be sufficient then. With so much insulation you might find you need very little heat input once the room is in use

Is this new build in the screed or retrofit (inc overlay boards)? +1 for Wunda, and if you're pretty handy its a relatively simple job to do yourself. Spacing wise, it depends on the diameter and heat output of the pipe, and also the heatloss of the room. I have wunda overlay boards @ 150mm centres in both exisitng and new areas of the house. Half the ground floor is the original house built in the 90's so reasonably well insulated (although not particularly well built....but that's a whole other story!!!) and the rest new build. The UFH keeps it all nice and cosy even with two 4m wide sets of bi-folds in the kitchen/dining area. Pressure testing is not an issue if you have good mains pressure (3-4bar minimum). Its so that you can check the UFH pipe for any leaks etc but unless you've been super careless or its been damaged then you wont find a leak. Connect mains to the system to fill and check the pressure. Pipe decoiler...............definitely get one. I started without one and one room with 65m of pipe was a real pain even with 2 of us. I boght a de-coiler from Wunda and the other 700mm of pipe have gone in like a breeze, even doing it on my own! A classic lesson (which being a cheapskate I never seem to learn from!!) of having the right tools and equipment for the job. And finally, be prepared to adapt any pipe layout plan either you (LoopCad) or the UFH company produce as in my experience it never quite works! Good luck

OK, got some setcrete compound and just painted the floor with the dilute acrylic primer. Should the floor look green all over when it dries? Mine only seems to be green in a couple of places!!!

Does anybody use hinges with removable pins? We have them on our existing doors and found them hugely useful for quickly taking the door off when decorating or moving large furniture items through the house. Am renewing the doors and will need new hinges so wondered if there was a decent quality one with pin.

Primer it is then...............having spent the best part of £20k on UFH, engineered wood flooring and kitchen i'm tending not to count the pennies and just do it properly and do it once. Also means I am getting to buy some nice tools I've always wanted but couldn't justify buying before......?

Thanks @MarkyP that's really helpful. The floor tapers from virtually nothing down to 10mm so maybe the deepbase isn't ideal so I will go for the high performance compound and mix in a little extra water. Do I definitely need their acrylic primer? What is the benefit of this over just wetting the floor as I've done for areas where I've used everbuild latex for odd patches?

Mainly because the work time is generally around 20 minutes and it takes at least 10-15 minutes to pour, trowel and feather off the edges. Unfortunately I don't have anyone who can mix a second batch whilst I do the first.

Thanks for that. Just googled it and seems ideal although i will probably have to do it in 2 halfs as a bag only does just over 2m2 Did you find it flows and levels itself quite well? I have found with some latex compounds that they don't flow that well which sort of defeats the object of them being "self levelling"

Do you have the details for this?

Hi all, thanks for the useful comments, am only just getting back online after a few weeks out of action. Nick, that's exactly what is happening, turn the valve temp up or down and its fine until the temp gets close to the set point again. I have reduced the boiler temp down to about 40-45 and run the system for a few days with the valve open to maximum (i.e. 60deg) and not a peep from it, presumably as its not trying to close off. So how does the Ivar valve set up work which is different to a normal blending valve?

I have a utility room with an existing screeded floor which is out of level by around 10mm in a distance of 2m so quite noticeable. Where I've been doing the other existing floors I have only need to do odd patches with latex prior to gluing my Wunda floor heating panels down. The room is only 2.5x2m so quite small but would take several bags of latex and a few separate layers to get it nice and level and I assume there must be a better and easier way to do it. The finish doesn't have to be perfect as it will have the heating panels on top but it does need to be level. Any advice or recommendations gratefully received. Cheers

Spoke too soon, the whining started again after a few hours and now the heating is on again this morning it's still there ? I'll try again with your suggestion Peter but if that doesn't work I'm a bit stumped. Could it just be a faulty valve?

Thanks Peter, Did all that and now all nice and quiet. Hopefully won't have any more issues but at least I know what to do now. Thanks again. Rob

There's no bypass valve on the manifold. I didn't think one was needed and the manifold set didn't come with one and the documentation doesn't mention a bypass. At the moment there are 3 UFH circuits in use, all of which are permanently open as I haven't set up the controls yet.

I think Torx is a trademark protected brand so screw manufacturers may have to pay a licence fee to use it. Not sure if it's still under patent, suspect not as its been around since the 70's i think.

Its a grundfos UPS2 which came with the manifold set Curious as to why changing the pump would make a difference? The pump is virtually silent.

I've recently started using my Wunda UFH which works very well but it has a high pitched whine most of the time when it's running. The noise comes from the mixing / temperature setting valve on the manifold and is at quite a high pitch. If I slightly adjust the setting, the noise stops, until (presumably) it comes back to the new set point, when the noise starts up again. Changing the manifold pump speed just changes the pitch but the noise is still there. Has anyone else experienced this with their system? Is it a faulty valve or could it be something else?

I'm fitting Wunda UFH downstairs on top of an insulated screed with laminate boards on top throughout (did want engineered wood but don't have the cash!!). My question is what thickness of laminate will be ok? We have seen some in the colour and finish we like (we've looked at hundreds as we're really fussy!) but it is only 8mm rather than the 12mm we have previously assumed would be the minimum. We have some heavy furniture and an american fridge/freezer etc and I'm worried that 8mm laminate might be too flexible and the wunda boards will end up getting compessed under the heavy items. Any thoughts?