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I agree with @Redbeard this is likely to be amenity land you own but it's use is restricted, so clearing a large area and parking a car there may not be allowed. Could you remove a much smaller part of the hedge and park parallel with your existing drive& garage? They way you only pass over rather than park on that land. It does lose more garden but it's less likely anyone will kick up a fuss

Helps preserve the listed building by financing necessary repairs, creates local employment are a couple. Did the planning officer give any indication of the public benefits they considering when weighing up? Does your council have an up to date local plan? If not that should tilt the balance further in your favour. It's good if you can already offer some mitigation for the points raised and your list of benefits already sounds good. It'll be harder for a planning officer to justify refusal of a full application then at the pre-app stage and I'd expect a planning consultant could get you over the line with this one. (We had to overcome less than substantial harm in a conservation area rather than re a listed building)

What's your plan if family circumstances change and they need money back? If you may need a mortgage in future you'll need to budget for some sort of warranty, also if you end up needing to sell. Your house looks well suited to being built on a budget but you need to plan for worst cases and have contingency. What are ground conditions like and service access? So much money can go just getting out of the ground. It's an exciting plan and I want to sound cautionary not negative but if you risk running out of money an unfinished, unwarranted house may not be worth much more than the land it's sitting on.

Roller shutter door fitted just forward of the opening with the roller in your soffit space might be an option. The rear wall construction will be for stability of what's otherwise a tall half brick wall

We've used facing below DPC, but you have to check their frost resistance rating. You're looking for an F2 rating.

Interesting idea but don't you need around 3600 cut lengths of pipe that size? If it's not available cut then I can't see it's worthwhile cutting pipes yourself. The compressive strength may well be questioned by BC. Maybe this would work better with pipes the length of your soakaway all laid the same way creating a stable honeycomb shape like you'll see when pipes are stored in a builders yard? (Around 100 pipes of 3.6m length) Either way you'll still need the whole thing wrapped in a membrane.

Why not fit 25mm insulation between the cross battens? Avoids any deformation and improves the insulation level.

Another alternative might be to fix the diaphragm to the underside of the joists, but you'd have to check with your SE.

When you say a "mains tank" are you saying this tank is owned and maintained directly by the water supplier for your region? I didn't know this was a thing. If not then I'd have thought your claim would be against the seller. Is a sensibly sized cold tank of your own an option to even out demand if supply restores overnight for example? Not ideal I know but not unheard of

If it's foil to foil that's stuck, rather than paper, and you can get a corner up you could try pulling a length of string held at both ends between the boards to break what may just be surface tension between them. Like using a wire to cut a clay pot off a wheel. If the foil gets slightly damaged you could aluminium tape to repair or use a separate VCL if you're relying on the foil for that purpose. Some lower in your pile may not be as tightly stacked anyway.

We've used Keim paints for breathability - excellent but expensive - with lime plaster. As it sounds like breathability will be limited here by gypsum boards then as @Redbeard suggests, trade matt is probably a decent choice

The 'Future Homes' site has a spreadsheet for calculating overheating by simplified method along with other useful guidance here Building control should accept that if you completed it correctly and get a pass.

It seems to depend very much on who you speak to. We also had to re-register. The quotes seem a bit arbitrary too - first quote we had for an urban infill plot was over £4500. This was between two properties that each already had fibre to the home from a pole just across the road! (If your quotes are above £2k building control can't require you to install)

I agree with @SBMS that this is a disqualifying event, whether you want to take the risk for a 30 day holiday let versus a probably 5 figure CIL charge plus 20% penalty for failing to notify a disqualifying event depends on your own appetite for such risks - if you're advertising on a site like Airbnb there's a clear evidence trail for someone to find. If you've any awkward neighbours that adds to the chances of someone making trouble. I think you can rent out a room, take in a lodger, but not let out the whole place, regardless of time period

Sorry but this looks very poor. You'll have been supplied with plans identifying each joist and which of the hangers you've paid for should be used at each connection. The design will rely on those hangers being used correctly. I guess the last pics may be just to place in rough positions prior to hanging as they're hopeless, but even with that benefit of the doubt some of the others where they've cut the ends and have minimal bearing are surely wrong. If your joist supplier is local maybe they'll visit the site to take a look, I think it's very likely some of this will need to be re-done and some joists may need replacing. Your building inspector will want to see these have been installed according to the design, it's hard to see this would pass. Are you staging payments? I'd want to keep something back if this is typical - I just looked at your profile, this is the same builder that installed the wrong insulation below damp?

I'd say there's generally more value in keeping the annexe, I certainly wouldn't spend to convert back to a garage, but then I'd probably leave it to buyers to decide unless you want to fit out the kitchen with something very low cost - guessing you took that out so it's not habitable to save council tax or something?

@Ben Brewin I think you'll need more than the 900mm starting height at the bed head - that would feel quite oppressive and the limited headroom would extend fast enough to make getting in and out tricky. Min 1200 I'd say. Looks like you have a lot of tree cover between neighbours so perhaps half a meter at the ridge wouldn't cause too many issues but yeah I think taking to planners is a good idea.

Have they bolted timbers to the existing rafters? Is that to a SE's design? From an insulation perspective, it looks like those new timbers may be wider than the original joists in which case the gaps between insulation and the original joists behind will be much bigger

Agree the layout works well in the footprint of the build. Do you have any section drawings or do you know what headroom the dotted lines denote? 5.9m isn't that much total, I wouldn't be surprised if those lines indicate 1.5m headroom. Is there any scope to raise the ridge height? Is it planning or the vendor constraining you?

So are you trying for a frameless effect like this? That site mentions Tectus hinges

Do you really need the door forward of the lining when closed or only when opened, to avoid skirting or something? Have you looked at parliament or projection hinges? The leaves are equal but maybe you can offset your drilling positions if you really need to have the door forward of the frame when closed

Flat roof light, thanks @Nickfromwales yes I don't think the upstand is too tricky to make but it's frustrating the BR figure is crazy strict compared to just buying one

Old thread but aargh building regs for upstands are infuriating - site formed should be 0.35 u-value but bought off the shelf up to 1.6 same as window is allowed!? Vendors wanting about £300 for something that's 0.58 seems pretty average. @JohnMo your Compacfoam solution sounds good to me

Take a look at https://www.pavingexpert.com/featur01 for a good level of detail and best practise. There may not be a lot underneath these and over time there'll be movement.

I think instead you should feel proud of yourself for taking the brave decision to walk away - for realising that now may not the best time in you and your family's lives and that this may not be the best opportunity to build what you want. It's easy to get so caught up in the dream of a self build that eventually you might sleep walk into doing it at the wrong time just to realise that dream. You've plenty of time to build a house in the future, there are always more plots (doesn't always feel that way!) and one day you'll find something that suits you better - better timing, better chance of building exactly what you want. Take your time, enjoy your kids growing up, keep your eyes open and look at each opportunity as it comes along.