Tyke2
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Looking for second self build plot. First one was 18 years ago - a grade 2 listed barn conversion.
Worked in development companies, so I have a bit of knowledge on traditional house building. -
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South Yorkshire
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I wouldn't fret, the council are unlikely to do anything to you, unless the neighbours complain. But BMBC are enforcing this as a condition with a developer in Barnsley. It does need to be a solid bound material, tarmac, paving etc.
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You need to look at the local development plan to see what the land is designated as. Speaking to a builder is unlikely to get you the right planning advice. I think there are a few plots with planning approval for sale in Holmfirth. Simon Blyth were selling some I think??
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There is a nice plot going to auction in Stannington with guide price of £200k. It is as you say a garden, but quite a big plot. I think it was 1/3 acre. But in Lincolnshire there are dozens of large plots quite cheap. But they seem to be quite isolated from centres of activity. My friend bought a large bungalow with 1/2 acre for quite cheap. But it was 30 mins drive from a supermarket and 40 mins drive to a swimming pool for the kids.
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Sorry if I missed something, but have you had bearing capacity and shrinkability testing done on the soil? If not then the advice from either of the "experts" is pretty arbitrary. If it is of god bearing capacity and low shrinkability you could have a 150mm thick strip footing with 450mmm cover to ground level. This would increase thicker/deeper/wider as the soil bearing capacity decreases/shrinkability increases. Proper testing and design by a qualified engineer could save thousands.
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Unfortunately a high price doesn't guarantee high quality.
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I think this is typical of what can arise from managing things down to the lowest cost base. I'm definately not criticising Hecateh for the situation. I had similar situations on my build too, but more roof related. I first tried a roofer that I saw tiling another self build locally, He was actually a fireman, who like most firemen have a second job. He quoted a good price (£1200) and I had seen his previous work so I set him on. My roof was a bit complicated and he measured it , scratched his head, measured again and then said he had to go and get some more fixings. I never saw him again. Secondly There was a development up my street with a similar tiling system. I asked the lads on the roof if they would quote for mine, cash in hand for a weekend job for them. They quoted £6000. So I bit the bullet and went to a large reputable roofing company. They quoted £1100, did the job in 2 days with no fuss. Sometimes for things that are a bit specialist, you need to use someone who 100% can do the job for the price quoted. Heating system with UFH etc may just be one of those things in hindsight. But you learn from your experiences. I hope they come back and finish the job.
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I would wait for them to come back. At least they have let you know that they were not turning up today. I do wish you the best of luck that they turn up next week.
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gas and electricity prices/suppliers
Tyke2 replied to lizzie's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
If you sign up with moneysaving expert utility club they often get one off deals not available to general public. But otherwise just try uswitch/GoCompare etc and get the best deal for you. . -
Be careful with the tree whilst in construction. The company I worked for employed tree surgeons to fell 3 trees in a conservation area. The workmen cut the right ones down , but then for some inexplicable reason felled a further three trees. It cost £9000 in fines plus legal fees. I think now it would ne £20,000 or even unlimited if it was thought to be to the benefit of a new development!
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Hi It seems like you have explained it pretty accurately already. If the foundations were deepened due to the trees I would have expected to see something like "Claymaster" :- https://www.jablite.co.uk/application/claymaster/ on the inside of the foundation trench. Otherwise the heave of the clay within the house extension footprint will potentially split the foundation as the clay rehydrates due to the tree roots now been cut off. The claymaster would collapse and prevent damage. It is possible that if claymaster was used , but the heave was much greater than predicted, heave damage could still occur. I have seen this where there was a large row of Poplars on a golf course boundary adjacent to a house gable. The clay expanded so much, it crushed the claymaster and lifted the house off its footing, breaking the house in two.
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How could the SE "suggest" a foundation depth without having full knowledge of the actual ground conditions investigation with trial pits? How does he know the actual bearing capacity of the ground without trial pits and onsite testing? The correct process would be to 1) Look at historic plans to ascertain what was there before. 2) dig some trial pits to confirm the above and to see exactly what's in the ground. If clay - test for shrinkability to allow the NHBC calculator to be used. 3)Design a foundation. If it is clay have at least the recommended cover/depth over the foundation to avoid frost susceptibility. If the SE has not done this then change your SE. At present it could have cost you £,0000s
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I had a similar situation and chose to deal with the owner - a local council. But they didn't even think they owned it. I paid them a sum to sign a document confirming that they had no rights to the area. I could have done the development and they would not have been able to prove ownership. But it would have been difficult for me to sell the finished property with the anomaly in the title.
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It does depend on the officer in question. I had a planning condition to use natural stone in diminishing courses. I looked around locally and there were several that had used alternative manufactured concrete replica stone tiles in diminishing courses and the planner accepted this as meeting the condition. Why don't you get a sample of the cheaper one, and show it to the planners. They may accept it as an alternative.
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Hi Yes you can do this. You can also rake back the ground behind the wall so that there is no load against it, thus reducing the need for it to retain. You really need to ensure that whatever detail you use it is adequately water stopped. The wall should have drainage behind it and a good quality DPM behind or in front of it. I'm assuming you are designing it yourself, rather than getting an architect to specify the wall detail?
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If you go to Shaw Carpets there are normally loads of business cards for fitters on the notice board. But I will send you a message with someone I know locally. But I must say that the guys I know are all "lads" it must be something to do with carpet guys.!