Super_Paulie

problem i have with that is the shower is really close to your knees if i rotate it to face it. I did want it like that originally as it would mean 1 less bend in the 110mm waste.

Zero. At least nothing but a hair-burg I could get from the bath plug. So you're saying don't bother with any rodding points or access ? I mean could keep one on the middle WC branch but then just box it all in, could always cut out the boxing if I need to. Id always follow your good advice chief.

wonder if its worth adding a rodding point to all 3 or if its easy enough to manipulate up or down from the main access in the middle of the 3? Could drill out and add removable caps i guess, my only access would be from directly behind the soil, not from the sides.

Hmm, the access to the other side of the branch will be internal, boxed in within a wall. Could always make an access panel I guess, probably better safe than sorry. 2x45 instead of 90s might help as well if I have the room.

Also just clicked on there are no real rodding opportunities. Take my chances, eat less protein and shave my head?

SketchUp for the 3D stuff, Illustrator for the flat drawings. I'm the kind of person that needs to draw things up before my brain lets me do any of the work.

I used foam onto my concrete blocks but regs said I needed to use mechanical fixings as well. If you're not getting it checked I'd just use the foam personally.

theres no doubt about it, im a worrier and always need positive reinforcement on tasks. Thats why this forum has been an absolute gem of a find during my refurb. Looking at it, the very short stubby solvent weld boss might be the best way to go as its lower than any push fit i can find, that will help with my fall. That means i'll have a weld section on the top as well so id need either a joining piece of straight and then a triple socket boss or even better a socket welded in then i can go with the "normal" push fit boss, could even use the socket i need to cut off the pipe i have in-situ. Not sure why im overthinking this...

I've only ever built stacks with the sockets at the top of the branches/pipe, one on top of the other (photo on the left). Never used a branch with the socket at the bottom as well, going "over" the stack as on the right in the picture. How trustworthy is the seal on the one on the right, as that's the situation I'll be in once I cut the socket off the soil pipe to reduce it.

Do you trust them? Seemed like not having the socket around the outside of the bottom of the branch is asking for leaks.

It's more the cutting off the socket on the stack and then how to convert that "back into" a socket really, not sure if trust myself with a branch welded on incase I need to adjust the direction slightly. Would you recommend a solvent weld-to-socket? https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-solvent-weld-single-socket-pipe-coupler-grey-110mm/13738

An option is a raised tray and once i get to the left hand wall there is maybe 80mm gap between the brick and the first joist so im good once im there. The joists are 170mm. Ive levelled them as the house sunk onto the beam when the house became open plan, with 20mm timber down at that end fading to 0 at the opposite end. Plus 22mm chipboard and 6mm ply. I was planning on notching all of the above which will give me roughly 70mm to play with if i run the waste close to the outside wall i dont need the subfloor covering as that wall will be studded out anyways. A raised tray is not out the question for me though, havent looked into it yet. Just at rough planning here.

good man and good news. One issue ive got, the stack. To be able to add in the addition lower connection for the shower id have to cut off the socket. The rest of the soil past joist level is already in-situ and i simply cant get to it without major surgery, i can only see the very top before the branch. If i cut off the female socket, remove 4 inches of pipe, whats my best option to add in the first branch to the stack? Solvent weld-to-socket? Female-to-female branch? Anything "on the outside" of the pipe seems a risk. This is the current setup, socket on soil then the branch. Second image is what i need to achieve.

im looking at potential layouts for my small, 2.2m x 2.xm bathroom. Before i offer up any designs to the missus, would a run of the 110mm waste like this be ok? im not 100% on this, but if i can move the bog to under the window then i will. It just means i guess 3x bends to get to the stack, which is all internal and the horizontal is around 2m. No access to any outside wall or underneath. Any thoughts guys?

When I was stuck for space I used 6mm, foamed on and then mechanically fixed so I could get it plumb and level.

If you've ever stripped old walls then you'd be surprised how drafty it is through any gap between bricks on the inner wall. Id imagine there's wind howling round cavities so you've got to do your best to stop that, I tend to just rake out and repoint but I do use FM330 if it's easier to do so.

looks like a catnic to me? Id do what you suggest, PIR in there, foam it in and then cover with wool where you cant get to it. Probably not worth using thermalites if the lintel is supported which it surely is.

its a fair comment. But as i was lowering the ceiling already i didnt want to lower it further. In the scheme of things, 12mm probably would have made sod all difference, youre right.

Just to put this to bed, job done. Just need to foam it in and tape it up, which I can't do until we have chosen our light position. Cutting a board down it's depth is horrible, but it meant I got rid of the remaining 50mm stuff I've had hanging around for years. Cheers Nick, onto the next thing.

The amount of debris you can generate per sqM is insane. I did the vaulted side to gain back the space as it was curved top and bottom and like 80mm thick and filled with rusted mesh. Whole thing was brutal, won't be doing that again.

id have to take the plaster and lath off in places. I took it all off in the vaulted section and quite frankly im never doing that again in my life. Ive tested cutting the 50mm between 2 lengths of timber and i can reduce the depth, but the question is should i, as id be losing the foil on the "inner" side.

i'll see what we have around here, not sure i can fit any in my 2 seater though no matter how small i cut it... I assume the secondary foil layer on the back is as vital as the one on the front, so hacking 10mm off the 50mm i have is a no-go? I have like 4 full boards left over from all my build stuff that im just stuck with, would be useful to use it up here.

Annoyingly you can't get 40mm from the sheds, and delivery is mental costly from insulation specialists, especially for like 2 sheets only. I have some 50mm but don't think cutting that sideways would be very easy...

my bathroom ceiling (first floor) is a mess, looks like its been a separate toilet and bathroom at one point and then converted into a toilet, bathroom and corridor. Now its all 1 room the ceilings are all over the place so ive lowered it down with C16 to get me a level surface. Its got a loft above with fibreglass insulation between, plastering lath is still here, and its going to stay there as well as its manky above it. My question is, should i fill this newly created dropped-ceiling void with tight fitting PIR and tape the timbers for my vapor control? The C16 is 38mm but packed out in places, often adding 25mm here and there to compensate the old ceiling, its that wonky. I could get PIR in there but it will leave dips and voids above it in places, any thoughts on mixed materials as i could pack it with 25mm fibreglass and then 25mm PIR level with the new, lowered ceiling timbers. Ceiling has a vent with an inline fan in the loft existing through the roof, room is small, 2.5m sq.

its an awful job, if i could spray i would. I used Leyland Eggshell on my MDF skirts downstairs, applied with a brush then a roller over the top to smooth it out, pretty good but it was 3 coats over the factory applied primer before i was happy. However. I recently used Zinnser BIN on my stair stringers and found it great stuff, applied with a foam roller. I havent top coated yet as im still in and out doing work but quite frankly it could pass a a top coat, looks amazin. 2 coats of that and it turned my 1930s turd-brown stringers totally white. I will likely go over it with the leyland eggshell when im ready. See attached stringer and scribed cover in Zinsser BIN.