Beelbeebub

But your import rate is likely to be higher - at least outside of night rate. So exporting at 15p and importing at 25p makes the financial efficency 60%. Say you produce 10kwh during day and over the same 24h use 10kwh During the generation period you use 5kwh and export 5kwh (earning 75p) Then after suunset you use 5kwh, buying it all from the grid at a cost of 125p Net loss of 50p If you stored the 5kwh you would forego 75p but not spend 125p. And lose 20p in depreciation. Overall a difference of 5p - chicken feed really, though it does widen if your power requirement is higher or if the imoort/export gap widens (eg the 15p rate is cut or price of day rate elec Rises) *but* the battery option has zero impact on the grid - there is no import or export

But batteries allow you power your air con in the evening/night with solar from thr day atow cost (4p/kwh assuming 4.5k cost for 14kwh usable over 8k cycles) And crucially at zero extra load on the grid.

Batteries.

Sadly, people will always try to diddle the system, whether it be a."free" air conditioner or a £120 million contract for faulty PPE. Which is why subsidising the consumer's bills for a period would be alot better - yes people could and would try to fiddle things by bypassing meters etc, but thry do that anyway.

The whole grant situation, especially with the closed shop MCS, invites grant harvesting. I still maintain using the subsidy to subsidise the heating costs of the HP system to guarentee a HP is always cheaper than gas would be a better way forward

True enough. That's a win anyway. Switching the country to Heatpumps that can perform better than 2.5 over the winter season reduces our gas consumption even if we have to build some more gas plants.

But why would you buy a 2nd hand unit when you could get a new one for free via the grant? And, sure a householder could do that but then they would have used their grant and wouldn't have any system. Removing an A2A unit intact is nearly as big a job as installing one in the first place.

With the prevalence of smart meters now, it will be alot easier to see which system is cheaper to run. I can imagine householders running with thr A2A, the maybe switching to gas every now and again and looking at the costs at the end of the day and switching back to A2A (or not). Over time they would gain confidence and experience as to which days are worth switching to gas. As I said, hopefully at some point the gas boiler woikd pack up and they'd decide it wasn't worth fixing.

It does seem, in hindsight, that a better approach would have been to allow the old system to be left in place and provide grants for fitting a HP as a hybrid/piggyback system much as JohnMo did. Then for (say) £750 you could get a HP fitted to the side of your house and a box inside to connect it to the existing system. If that box controlled the HP and boiler (the boiler often being a simple on/off switch) it could run each system depending on outside air temp. Over time thr owner would see the HP system kept them warm and was cheaper most of the time. Maybe upgrading the odd radiator every now and again would improve things until one day the boiler packed up and was never replaced

This seems like a good path because it removes the twin doubts about HPs - that it might not be able to keep you warm and that it might cost more than gas over the year. Having the original system in place is very much the best of both worlds. The user k ow that - at worst - they will have their original system performance and cost. The only disadvantage with this approach with A2W is that it has to share the emitter with the orginal system and if they are undersized the HP won't perform. A2A does sidestep this issue by having its own emitters, but has the downside of not providing DHW. Both approaches have their benefits but neither are brig supported under the current system which mandates removing the old system - making for a much bigger leap of faith.

I would say the leveling off of the renewables after 2030 and slow rise of Gas & imports thereafter may be an artifact of the "horizon" for renewables onky extending out that far and then making the conservative assumption that nothing is added after that therefore the forecast demand increace will be met by thr default of gas and imports. I suspect that leveling off exists in earlier versions and will exist in future ones. I can't see a physical reason why that growth would plateau so abruptly. Slow maybe but just suddenly stop?

I was wondering if installing A2A alongside the existing gas heating and DHW is a good step to moving off gas. The systems are entirely separate. The homeowner can always drop back to gas if they struggle to stay warm or it's costing too much and thr DHW is already taken care of - this is especially true for houses with combi. Then, at a later date the DHW can be replaced with a heat pump cylinder led to the existing outside unit or off peak immersion or whatever. Plus cooling in the summer will be useful.

A quick glance at gridwatch for this summer says we're a long way off not needing gas in the summer so best dialling down AC for a good while. NESO say for 2024 we had 37% green generation- 30% wind, 5% solar and 2% hydro. Looking at the hour to hour figures it seems like we quite often have around 2-3Gw of gas going even when the solar and wind are shooting up. The "margin" stays suspiciously constant so I suspect it's a spinning reserve issue.

There was a mhrv system that used a heat pump instead of the heat exchanger and could provide a kw or so of heating. Can't remember the name.

I wondered if having some sort of grant availible for A2A models as long as they have the minimum (maximum?) cooling temp firmware locked at (say) 26C. It should be a fairly simple software change - they already have different firmwares (or at least options) for things like language, units etc. The grant to make A2A really affordable doesn't need to be much maybe a cash back voucher for the customer or something. Though, to be honest just making the planning and red tape around A2A easier would help - if thry could get a refrigerant that didn't require an f-gas cert (and wasn't flammable or toxic) so thry could be diy'd it would be a massive step forward

There are some HP systems that are entirely self contained and just require a pair of 150mm inlet/outlet ducts. The unit itself isn't much bigger than a storage heater. They are more expensive than a 2kw panel heater but they do have much lower power requirements. They could be integrated with a ventilation system to provide fresh air at the same time. We really should be looking to removenresitive heating from all domestic space heating requirements.

I think the point of having open architecture is not that consumers have to (or even can) fiddle with things. It's to allow 3rd party integration - so don't like the controller that comes with your heatpump? Just use another one. No proprietary lock in via API/protocol. No having to reverse engineer comms protocols and registers - just look up the published and freely available document. And most of all, no legal bars (DRM, copyright etc) to 3rd party integration. Look at what is happening to some cars now - you can't fit a pattern or second hand part because the Ecu won't recognise them without an online activation. Imagine boiler or HP companies being able to require that any work be done by an "authorised" technician who has had to pay for all the software tools to activate the boiler /hp

My worry abiut all these intelligent optimisation services with a subscription is the often (always?) are "in the cloud". Which not only opens them up to outages and malicious actions but also puts the user at the mercy of subscription hikes (Buy our premium service to have set temps over 16C!) and plain old services shutting down. Nest thermostats are now crippled because Google decided it couldn't be arsed supporting them and they are only 10 years old. All that said, it's entirely possible to build a learning thermostat for a HP that is self contained and doesn't need any Internet connection. Which is waht we should be looking for.

Thing is, you really don't need to talk about Weather compensation. You just need a thermostat in the house that says what temp it is and what temp you would like it to be. These days, it wouldn't take much on board machine learning to work out what the heat loss curve is for the building and the optimum flow temp for a given outside temp and requested inside temp. The only education required is to tell the user to not expect the rads to get scalding hot. And that's on the installer anyway so as to avoid constant call backs "because my rads aren't heating up"

The way i describe it to try and get people to understand it..... What is the most efficient way to average 60mph? Use an overpowered engine, floor it until you hit 70, then lift off until you drift down to 50, then floor it again. Use a smaller engined car, and use the minimum throttle to cruise gently up to 60 and then stay there.

My neighbour has one, I tried it out. Very nice. Would do us very well with one problem....I don't fit. I'm quite tall and most of it is in my upper body, so I have an issue with headroom in cars and the Nero is one of them. My head presses into the headliner and I can't see put of the front very well. Worse, the rear mirror doesn't twist enough for me to see out of the back window, I just look into the passengers laps.

A possible solution to fast recharging but the capital cost of of those stations has to be higher than a charger station and then you woikd have an even bigger problem with compatibility. Imagine if you could only fill your car up with Shell petrol rather than any brand. One thing I do like about that system is it demands the battery is easily interchangeable. Which implies it would be easy to change the battery if it were to degrade, or battery chemistry improves. We can see this with Nissan leafs. Now the older ones are more or less open source there are replacement battery packs available with larger capacities that can swap out in a morning at a small garage

I have exactly this dilemma, being responsible for 30 odd boilers. Thry are small, relatively cheap and can provide heating and hot water from pretty much any property. From the late 90's we converted lots of our properties from E7 to gas, it cost a bit to put the radiators and pipes in and the early combi boilers didn't last long (we reckoned 10y) but was much cheaper for occupants and reduced CO2. Now we are faced with going back the other way!

The 250% figure is for kwh delivered at your house (including transmission losses) assuming a 100% efficency boiler. Ie volume of gas burned in a ccgt plant is 2.5x the volume of gas burned in a gas boiler to deliver 1kwh of heat in your living room. So, as long as your heatpump can achive a Cop of 2.5 or better you will burn less gas in the power plant than you would in your boiler. 2.5 is pretty achievable in all but the most ham fisted installation. If we snapped our fingers and swapped every domestic gas heating system with a heatpump and created enough ccgt plants to power them, our national gas demand would fall.

This illustrates my point very well. You need the range to go there and back on one charge because you're anxious about the trouble of trying to charge away from home. Which isn't a.worry with ice cars. Imagine if petrol stations were really rare and had very slow pumps, 30mins to fill Your 200mile can would be pretty stressful. Everyone would want huge tanks, which would take even longer to fill etc. Some of the new generation of Chinese LFP batteries can charge at 10C, ie they can fill in 6 minutes (assuming you have a powerful enough charger). In practice it's a hit linger because of charge curves but people don't usually fill 0-100, it's 20-90 or something. For a 100kwh battery that's a 1MW charger! But for a 30 kwh battery ,which could do 120 miles, you only need 300kw, which are not impractical. My longest daily trip is London and back 150mi each way. I do it a few times a year. Currently easy on one tank. If I had an electric 150m range would be doable *if* I could guarentee an easy fill up at the other end. Otherwise I need 300 miles (plus reserve)