wozza

I wanted a sectional door as they are typically thicker and hence better insulated than a roller door - however sectional doors need a framework to retract into restricting what you do in the space above / to the sides - and also will block any lighting when the door is open. I have opted for an insulated roller. My roller door will be fitted behind the aperture (so the guides will not be seen) and the when fully open, you will only see about 20mm of the door below the soffit.

Thanks to everyone for your replies - I like the pipe sleeve idea - probably the easiest solution. I will feedback once BC have been and advised. Thanks Wozza.

Hi All, Converting a single brick wall (old garage) to a brick / block cavity wall. We have dug down to the bottom of the existing foundations to widen them for the inner block course and are ready to pour the concrete. However there (as always) is a problem, we have a soil pipe that passes through the middle of the intended new foundation. We cant move it, we cant remove it - the only option is to pour the foundations around it. We are waiting for building control to come and have a look before we do anything. One suggestion from a labourer is to wrap the pipe in 2 inches of rockwool to allow the pipe to move inside the foundation and to prevent the concrete from sticking to it? Anyone suggest anything?

We had ours fitted in 2011 - they cost a lot - but they have paid for themselves and we now earn clear profit (from the FiT payments) - We had a 4KW system fitted and receive around £2100 a year in payments (our FiT is around 54p a KW - now you only get around 4p We also manage how we use the free generated electric - we tend to put the washing machine, dishwasher etc on timer so they run whilst we are at work - using free electric that would otherwise just be fed back into the grid. I believe that you have until the 31st March to sign up for FiT payments as they are ending the scheme.

So, just looked at the Main Fuse at the meter and its marked up as 100A and also as 80Amp by a sticker (See the Pic) We did have a new meter a few years back so I am assuming that they changed the 100A fuse for an 80A fuse. So should I ask the electrician to fit a 80A fuse or 60A fuse in the new switch?

Thanks to everyone for your great replies and advice Could anyone advise on suitable master switches?

Thanks Dave. just to clarify, It will definitely be an electrician who does the work, and the disruption is inevitable as we are extending upwards and converting the garage to a bedroom. The supply / meter box is on the outside wall, it feeds through a hole into the garage and up to the CU in the garage - the cables then go off inside the garage roof space in various directions to feed the house. The extension is going above the garage and also converting the garage to a ground floor bedroom, so the plan is to move the CU along the wall by about 8 meters, the cables to supply the house from it will then be in between the floors.

Sorry its a TN CS (Marked up as P.M.E)

Standard 240v mains supply. Earthing I believe is 6mm, it was replaced a few years ago.

Hi All, Our current consumer unit (also the solar inverter) is in the garage , which will soon be converted to a bedroom, so SWMBO has asked if the consumer unit and the solar inverter can be moved into the utility. No problems with the inverter as its just a couple of cables, but the CU would be around 8 meters from its current location. I have not spoken to the electrician yet but wanted to try and understand what it involves / requires before I do so that I am better armed when I do. I have a few questions, and as I have only a basic knowledge that I have gained from reading threads here and the tinternet, so please feel free to correct me. 1, If moving the CU more than 3 meters from the meter then I need protection for the cable, which would be better, a fused switch or a RCD? (it will be housed in the external meter cupboard) or is either fine? 2, Some of the existing cables will probably not reach the new location and they cant be replaced, what would be the best way to join them (Wagos in a box, Junction boxes? something else?) 3, I was thinking of getting a High Integrity CU so that "Mission Critical" (not my term) appliances such as the alarm, smoke alarm, freezer etc would go on their own RCBOs with everything else split across dual RCDs. (I have read that some people put smoke alarms etc on the same circuit as lights so you would easily find out if the rcd has tripped, but I have had bulbs blow before that have tripped the RCD) - Any thoughts on this and what mission critical items to have on the RCBOs 4, Any recommendations or brands to avoid for the consumer unit etc (currently liking a Wylex NMX High Integrity Unit) 5, Apart from the height, does the CU need any considerations, for where it is mounted? Please feel free to add anything that I have missed, Thanks, Wozza.

Thanks Joe

Can you tell me the manufacturer? I am researching now as much as possible ready for my new door.

They now use a 2 screw cover and 2 x 1.5 volt AA Batteries.

Can you give me some details on the door? Manufacturer, Supplier etc. I will be needing one soon. Thanks, Wozza.

Thanks Russell.

When I say open cavity, I mean that it is intended to be closed with a cavity closer that would normally be hidden by the door frame. But if I fit the door behind the opening then the cavity closer will be seen / exposed to the elements.

Hi All, On my extension plans the wall for my garage is showing an open cavity (Brick and Block wall) in the opening for the garage door. I presume that this would normally be finished with a cavity closer and then the door fitted in the opening. However I may want to fit the door behind the opening to allow for extra headroom (Insulated Roller Door) Is it possible to close the cavity if I fit the door behind the opening without creating a cold bridge? Thanks, Wozza.

Thanks Russell. Off to look for Led Panels now.

The diagram was drawn by me - I was trying to see how it would all work ? So would this be better?

We have a 100mm full filled cavity (Earthwool Dritherm 32) They are included in the build cost.

Rafters are drawn as 150mm We have planned for triple glazed Velux Is my diagram below how it should be done? or would it be better to fill the area directly behind the plasterboard? Or is there a better way?

We have a Grohe 1000 - its used at least twice a day and has been going strong for over 10 years. We need two more showers for our new extension - I will be buying Grohe.

Hi All, Cavity Closers - anything to discuss? any recommendations? or are they all pretty much the same thing. Can they be mitered in the corners or should they overlap vertically or horizontally? Thanks, Wozza.

Russell, I think you may have hit the nail on the head, we are having a wrap around ground floor extension with a vaulted roof and also an extension above the garage, so there are two different types of roof - I had them confused as one roof, doh. I have attached a plan. A couple of questions, the plans show Celotex on the sloping roof, 100mm between and 40mm below the rafters: 1 - How much difference would it make if I upgraded the 100mm to 125mm (would it be worth the cost etc)? 2 - How do people fit downlights in a roof with PIR insulation? Thanks, Wozza BR-001 REV A.pdf

Hi All, Would someone be able to visualise or understand my roof construction on my extension - I cant get my head around how the architect has planned for it to be constructed - I get the majority of it but I cant work out how she has planned the insulation etc, this is what she has written on the plan. Proposed roof tiles to match existing to suit roof pitch on 38x25sw treated battens on Tyvek Supra breathable membrane on rafters and ceiling joists as specified on plans on sw wall plate anchored to block inner skin with 30x5 gms straps min 1.0m long and at 2.0m max centres. The first 3 No. rafters and ceiling joists strapped back to wall with bat 30 x 5 x 1200mm gms restraint straps at max. 1800mm centres and supported with 50 x 75mm sw noggins packed tight to wall. All roof timbers to be tanalised. Roof voids to have 150mm quilt insulation laid between joists and 150mm laid above at right angles. Insulation to roof slopes to be min 100mm Celotex between and 40mm below rafters with min 25mm void to underside of roof membrane. Thanks, Wozza.