janedevon

Ah ok thanks, the diagram from bcp isnt easy to make sense of especially for me lol i see now that some have 2 still with 13 extract/intake plenums there is going to be a lot of pipe, may have to adjust as we go as imdont think bcp have taken into account limited roof space due to us using it as rooms.

Thanks Declan, i didnt realise every vent needed 2 runs to it wow a lot of space needed!!

As above me and the sparky are installing first fix tomorrow, any tips appreciated all supplied from BCP should be a fun day

Ours was laid 2 weeks ago 3 more weeks until polishing takes place

As requested from 7.30 this morning 4 concrete guys arrived installed mesh on chairs, 9am pump arrived, 10 am first load of concrete arrived one hour later second lorry, then we ran out oops 32 tonnes not enough quick call and another load. Levelled then left for 4 hours before panning then blading and power floating main house being polished to an aggregate show so 4 mm will be ground off, before polishing, the workshop area will be powerfloated with only poloshing no aggreagate show so the guys are still working on that area just took the pics now should look like glass before they finish. Polishers come in 4 weeks today cant wait.

Have just had 40 tonnes of concrete poured, guys are panning and power floating as we speak they reckon they will be here until 10pm!!

Ah ok mine all on one level and utility is central my god the manifold is huge though, 11 zones and one hell of a lot of pipe!! pressurised tomorrow as comcrete goes down Momday

Mine has just been fitted in a block and beam floor all went through doorways apart from 2 rooms which have been acsessed by drilling through the dolly block, our manifold is sited in utility room although boiler will be outside, what reasons for not being in utility im intrigued?

Nice one and close by, Tavistock,here looks a great plot and £85000 sounds like a great price to get watertight i didnt manage that lol.

Pics if it will help unsure where to put our insulation upstand, do we lift dpc and put it under or just butt it against the block Rest of rooms no problem its just 3 openings we have to deal with and want to get insulation right to avoid cold bridging

Hi help please, we have to have our radon barrier in place by monday, all is going great until we get to and entrances to our house and we are a bit stuck. we have a dpc between bricks entering the house which was going over a dolly block then onto the block and beam floor, we had to remove dollys from all thresholds as we are having a concrete floor installed and the concrete would be too thin if left in place. so we are a bit stumped as how to proceed, we have a 50 mm cavity, do we fill this with insulation? Then lip over dpc and join with radon barrier flush with the outside brick and then continue our upstand of celotex along the front of this or do we just lap it down face of block leave cavity empty then put our upstand along the face of the brick? so confusing but want to get it right thanks

Hi guys my noob question of the week is upon us we are going to put our floor insulation in at the end of this week as we have first fix plumbing taking place next Monday we have a block amd beam floor at present and ready to go is sand for blinding, then a radon barrier/dpc then we require 100mm celotex before our ufh goes in then concrete pour. my question is the concerning the edges of the rooms, we are planning a 50mm celotex upstand on all edges of external walls to avoid cold bridging, do we put this in place first or on top of our 100mm celotex, we have a batten above ffl to secure plasterboard to so i plan on i sulating with the 50mm under the batten then by the time plasterboard and skirting goes in it will be well covered. thanks

http://www.knaufinsulation.co.uk/products/glass-mineral-wool-slabs/earthwool-frametherm-slabs mine was done last week with this

Thanks Terry thats put my mind at rest was worried i was doing something unusual, still cant see the point in putting batten level with sole plate as it will be no use for fixing plasterboard to ill just have him batten to the timber above the sole plate, then i can insulate under the batten to avoid cold bridging with wall edge.

Hi guys appreciate an answer as im confused. Timber frame guys fitted all our extrnal wall insulation today all foiled up and ready to batten tomorrow to create a service void. i just questioned where the batten was going to go and he was planning soleplate level, our planned ffl is level with top of the soleplate and we are hoping for polished concrete so need the depth, so,i said can you attatch batten to the base of the panels leaving soleplate to be clear for us to flood it with conrete to ffl. he said it was unusual as he always battened to the soleplate but in my eyes if so the batten will be lost within the floor. is what i mention acceptable or am i bringing concrete too high to go level with soleplate? Thanks

Thanks a good read, im planning roof vents to avoid any big holes

Anyone with experience advise on best choice of mvhr unit would be best out of the 2 suggested by bcp airflow bv 400 or vent axia kinetic plus b i think the noteable difference is the fact that the vent axia has imtermal humidistat which should help in bathrooms any other selling points? i didnt even know i was supposed to have one of these until last week but am keen to get on an order it. The difference in price is around £600 air flow plus all fittings inc 200m ducting around £2100 vent axia plus fittings £2650 these are supply only our budget is getting swallowed so we will be self installing are their plans easy to follow i read somewhere that the posh ducting is not needed they have quoted for radial crush proof quiet vent, maybe i could downgrade this to make it cheaper? thanks

Seems a long time ago january when we first started groundworks, just all speeding up suddenly. Polished concrete floor now looks a distinct possibility

So timber frame guys left 10 days ago and we are making the most of the unusual Devon warmth, well on the way with roof and block good to see it coming on so well especially walking around site on a beautiful evening like today. still lots to think about got a guy coming to discuss comcrete floor options tomorrow and external walls are being insulated on Wednesday then plumbing first fix and a hundred things we havent thought of yet im sure!!!!

That looks great, got my polished concrete guy coming over on Tuesday for a quote

Thanks for that, how about her idea of between rafter insulation on cold roof i have only batten over felt so no air gap i thought the idea was rockwool above celing allowing a lot of air flow there

Hi again guys just a quick question reference the above pic on my build, had the building inspector around today she was checking roof structure and talking about insulation for the roof, i said the sarked roof is a warm pitched roof which will have inulation between and under rafters then the rest is cold roof which will have piles of earthwool inside, she said no its all a cold roof as to be a warm roof the insulation needs to be above rafters and the rest of the roof ie the un sarked area would still need between rafter insulation. she left me a bit perplexed and when checking my plans the insulation is as i described, i do however have a bit of a quandry where what i call the cold roof,cuts,into the warm one presumably i just carry all the way down with between rafter insulation and try to avoid cold bridging. the sarked area has counterbatten the unsarked area hasnt. any clues?

Brilliant thanks had been reading that before,you posted and i see they do a free quote from plans so ill start there. thankyou

I like the look of these think this is the way i will go if i fit these will they fit ducting from a range of mvhr manufacturers just starting to price this up looks costly.

Many thanks, i like the sound of tiles rather than walls ill look up some suppliers, internally is it just ducting hidden by a grill that gets activated with the light switch to pull the air out like a standard old school vent axia type thing?