janedevon

Yes exactly that!! as discussed on this thread i asked for a quote for batt and celotex and got a quote for actis from 3 suppliers totally ignoring my request. Ill do exactly that this afternoon and see if i can get somewhere.

Tried SIG and a few others and oddly they all must have a deal going with the rep from ACTIS as 3 replied with more or less the same quote all ignoring my request for price of the batts and offering a 5k option of ACTIS blue and a range of ACTIS products exactly what I was trying to avoid. the seatch comtinues

I knew someone would be anti the bifolds but we have decided to go for them it will make the property in our eyes I know the faults, we have chosen aluminium with 10 year warranty so can only hope they hold out.

Yes it's tough call, but really we don't have much wall availiable and I'm thinking a table could go next to the window rather than next to the door which would be awkward and look odd!! Tbh if it's hot bi folds will be open if cold then it's not far from the front door to go out and round.

Timer frame on day 2 of erection. As usual as things come together we find ourselves rethinking, we have an open plan lounge diner from the kitchen and as you can see from dining room a set of french doors and from lounge a 4 m bifold, we are thinking as we walk around that we don't really need the french doors and could either replace with a full length window no opening or just make it a standard window, can't see the necessity to have so many doors, what's your views?

Yup mine is on a course of 6 inch blockwork allowing ffl inside at least the blockwork was square just a few gaps to fill and bearing in mind it's above dpc hoping won't be a problem

That is another point one of my builders stated, a 12m run of timber may be a bit warped or not exactly straight going to go with a bit of foam before walls go up.

Thanks, yes it's a bit annoying however the frame company say that it is common in their job to do this they said most jobs they go on are the same, annoying to say the least though, so I'm left with this gap to fill between my dpc and the sole plate, should I try to get it filled under the dpc layer ? Or on top going to be tough which ever way it's not huge gap but theres a lot of it to fill!!!

Hi there really quick question as to best product to use to pack out soleplate. sole plate being laid today by timberframe company, and where it's not exactly level it's been packed out with wedges, they say our guy needs to come and fill the gap, any suggestions? Something in a tube/ gun I guess, going to be hard to get cement under there? many thanks

Great news well done, the harder work starts now!!!!

I'll keep trying lol will try SIG tomorrow

This looks a fair price http://discountbuildsupplies.co.uk.172-245-29-220.vp-stores.com/shopexd.asp?id=17732 £42.25 a roll inc vat amd delivery

Come down here and do my heating install free bakery products and lovely Devon weather

Think I've opened up a can of my own worms, been checking through my building reg plans and external walls are spec as 140mm frametherm 32, my timber frame company have included insulating outside walls in my job but on reading their spec they state 140mm mineral wool batt, I'm guessing this isn't as effective as the spec on my drawings, so will either have to get them to requote using better stuff or do it myself. one problem leads to another

Many thanks this is looking promising, so I'll need double my area of roof worth of earthwool around 300msq presumably I'll be able to get this in bulk and hopefully find a good price, I imagine this will be fine for my internal walls too as they are 89mm in which case I'll order more. I'll price celotex or equivalent and compare prices, on thickness I don't think I'll want too thick as it will eat into celing height of bedrooms maybe iI'll wait until frame is up to decide, I'll speak to electrician about a service void I imagine we won't need one as we should have options close to the eaves unused space I think. Any tips on best priced suppliers or just pot luck?

Many thanks, I think we are getting somewhere now so membrane, 200mm mineral wool then is the rigid foam something like celotex? What sort of thickness are we talking and will this provide a vcl if fitted correctly? Then add standard plaster board afterwards.?

To update and see if my options can be improved, the timber frame company have informed me that the rafters will be 197mm deep, is there a cheaper product that I can use in a thicker format that's relatively easy to self install, bearing in mind I'm after hitting my target .16 not going excessive. hoping to use a breather membrane, fill rafters with the cheapest easiest to fill insulation then opt for the layer beneath rafters before adding standard plasterboard.

I haven't run anywhere!! I ran a euchre league on line for years and am well aware everyone has differing opionions, and different ways of expressing themselves, it's good to hear all sides of debate and as stated earlier some want to acheive the best spec and some want to do the bare minimum. As for me I'm still not totally convinced as to what method I will choose to use, more research needed and as I get mor ,information I will come back here and ask questions, you are knowlegable people, I'm a baker I can help you on bakery products but as for house building I'm learning every day. So its all good listening to everyones opinions offers a wide choice of options!!!

Damn I'm lose could have done with him lol Tavistock,here

Thanks all for your thoughts, I'm still reading through pages on google about insulation it seems most favour some insulation over the rafters in a new build, I guess thats where architect put the tlx gold, just seeing what other options there are its all good im learning.

Using the kingspan calculator, it says 150mm inulation between rafters and 37.5mm kingspan insulated board will give 0.14 that sounds good? Construction build-up includes: 3mm skim coated Kingspan Kooltherm K18 Insulated Plasterboard fixed under rafters Kingspan Kooltherm K7 Pitched Roof Board fully filling space between rafters Kingspan nilvent breathable membrane 38mm x38mm counter-batten Slate / tile batten Tiles/Slates

This all gets confusing for sure, as ours is a dormer I presumed we were having warm roof as the bedrooms are part of the roof therefore won't be layering insulation over first floor celings i.e. an attic as we wont have one, now reading the post above I can still have either a warm or a cold roof still depending on where insulation goes. So what are the pros and cons for hot and cold roofs in this situation. ideally I want to use standard breather membrane as it's cost effective, then the most reasonable priced option to achieve 0.16 either rockwool or celotex between rafters then vcl before plasterboarding. But if it's better to insulate above the rafters then I'll go that route. I should have paid more attention to this at the time the architect chose what to put on the plan!!!

Many thanks to all of you for comments thus far, I'm just waiting to confirm depth of rafters to work out the best options hopefully architect has never discussed warm or cold roof so I'm a bit confused there, will have to do some more research before I decide the final build up, it's a dormer so space is a premium hoping the rafters deep enough to provide room for decent insulation.

That was going to be my next question, I've had someone from Actis send me this: Your SAPS assessment claims that you are required to achieve a 0.16 u-value within your pitched roof. This can be achieved with just two products of ours without the need for an insulated breather membrane as first thought. The build up that you require is: Slate Batten Breather Membrane 120mm Hybris – Reflective Insulation stapled between the rafters HControl Hybrid – Reflective Insulated Vapour Control Layer stapled/nailed under rafter 38mm Batten Plasterboard this would be cheaper on the membrane and less labour intensive at least fitting the hybris compared with cutting celotex, waiting on a price to see how they compare. how did you find the actis did you self install?

Thanks for your answers I'll get the spec listed tomorrow, basically it's the tlx gold in place of standard breather membrane, then 150mm celotex between rafters with kingspan over. 150m sq roof equals about £1500 for,the tlx gold alone several builders have said we wouldn't need that. just looking at options. thanks