Pete

I have the Parex thin coat render system on tender boards, longest run 27m with no expansion joints. T/f company had no joints in the frame and moisture resistant board company told me they had done longer runs without joints. Been on 3 years and no cracks yet! My boards are fitted on a batten which is held in place by 100mm s/s screws of which I pre drilled and then impact driver to secure. I had to leave a 3mm gap on all sides of my boards and they where put on brick pattern style

Hot my mate who has fitted one ASHP before and is on a steep learning curve. I went for the 9kw Panasonic Aquarea and tank with buffer although I think I could have done without it

Think yourself lucky you have time to change it. I am mid fix and keep reading this thread and finding out we have missed stuff like auto bypass (thanks @PeterW) so off to merchants now. May find out later the pump has one but get one just in case!

Does the heat pump not have a built in by-pass?

Join the club. I am hopefully moving in soon so if anything bad happens you will the 3rd person to know after my wife and I (if I am still breathing)

The middle photo shows a rebate and this sits onto a 10mm plate that connects the strings together. In this metal plate there are 6 holes to attach the wooden treads to. The bottom photo is what you will see when fitted and hopefully matches the Oak floor on the landing.

Same here!

Not helpful!!?

That's not good as I have no way of getting the blow off outside other than the 110mm drain. Thanks for the explanation but will have to just use the 110mm and see if he spots it

My plumber mate who is helping me fit my ASHP reckons I need two traps for one pipe and I am not so sure. I have the relief valve for the cold and the blow off for the UVC going into a waste pipe. My mate reckons there should be a water less trap directly underneath the tundish, the 1 1/2 pipe then runs round to the 110mm pipe but I need to put in the drain for the steam oven so he said just put in another trap and connect the oven. My question is why cannot I not just have one trap directly of the 110mm stub pipe and then attach both the steam oven and UVC at their respective points? TIA

Pictures of my treads. Just got to fit them!!

This is not mine, it was posted as an example by @Russdl

We have the L shaped ones. Made in Poland and they look amazing. Not fitted yet (still sorting sensor lights?). Will post some pics later. They are rebated underneath to fit metal staircase and colour matched to Oak floor on the landing.

Tried that and it did not work The sensor is part of the light so cannot be moved or alter circuit to put switch in

We have numerous cupboards in our build and I have fitted sensor lights as it seemed a good idea at the time but now I have fitted the doors the lights come on as we walk past. I have reduced the sensitivity of the lights and they still turn on. Some of the doors fit into a rebate and as of yet are not able to be fully closed as there are no handles on but had a quick test by holding shut and the lights still come on. I think with the large gap at the bottom for the MVHR this lets the movement of somebody walking past be detected by the sensor. Some of the doors just close together so there is a gap between them and this is worse. So apart from having to reduce the gaps under the doors (not sure what I will do with the doors coming together) has anybody any ideas of what we can do or are we destined to have lights turning on as we walk past them!! TIA

I appreciate that but I just wondered if the regs state it has to be within a certain distance? With Jeremy putting his inside the house and then could possibly sell and move on and somebody else take over the property then the isolator would be nowhere near the pump but who is to say he put it in the wrong place?

Beat us to it Ian! Congratulations and well done. The house looks great and has changed quite a bit since I was there. Hope you can relax a bit over xmas before finishing the final bits

The electrical isolation switch for the heat pump has to be mounted adjacent to the heat pump. I remember @Jeremy Harrislocating his immediately on the inside of his house on the other side of the wall from the heat pump. What are the regulations for this switch as I have also seen the switches mounted on the heat pump itself? I have some really nice stone cladding behind my heat pump and I do not want to drill/ mount my switch onto this. TIA

I am doing inlet and outlet just to reduce heat loss from the building. ( I have the materials leftover so might as well use them)

Let me read again later and I will let you know! Many thanks

Just need to make sure I have all the possible wiring on place and some are saying all you do is change the controller settings and you are now saying I need another stat to control the cooling so getting a little confused as to what I actually need to do. I think the heat pump has a cooling terminal but as if yet it is still packaged up outside. Thanks for your time

They where just lay on top of the unit in between the terminals so had at least 175mm to the outside box so do not think so

Yes, they could not answer

It looks like mine but so confusing to have a cooling terminal and no connection or am I not looking at it right? Many thanks

Had a quick look today and the foam is not a perfect fit either round the outside or inside of the terminals on my mvhr?