LiamJones

Went on holiday recently and the shower was a hansgrohe raindance S with PowderRain. It’s a super fine warm mist. Each nozzles has multiple holes. Was super impressed and now have that on the ‘must’ list for the build. Are there any equivalents from other brands? Probably going to get the hansgrohe pulsify S, also with PowderRain, unless I can find alternate brands

I honestly can’t remember. Less than a tenner a board I think? Buildup was the 16mm board, then primer, tile adhesive and tile. So basically 16mm more than a standard tile job. If you went 10mm porcelain, 5mm adhesive you’re 31mm all in. Plus any levelling you need. I had plus 10mm in the lowest, but next to nothing at the high spots.

My last last was a Reno, we had an open plan kitchen dinner that bridged the new and the old. We had the new slab made up to existing height. The old part was also concrete so that helped, then chucked SLC over the lot, then used Wunda over floor boards throughout, tiled straight on top. No issues. I was worried about the joint between new and old, but no problems. Probably waited about 6 months for it to settle before tiling. I think the wunda boards added a layer of decoupling to for some differential movement.

Has anyone fitted resilient bar to a stud wall, with only one sheet of plasterboard either side? All the British gypsum details for resilient bar, specify double boarding to both sides? Anyone know why?

Hi, I need to run 150mm to/from atmosphere. These 2 ducts will need to run through 100mm masonry, 80mm cavity (EPS beads), 100mm masonry, 100mm EPS EWI, Krend silicone. can I just insulated the duct up to the inner leaf, or do I need to insulate the duct all the way through. If I sealed the duct to the inner leaf, the likelihood of moisture being in the wall buildup is low, right? Pre-insulated 150mm ends up at 172 o/d. I’d prefer to keep the size down, all things being equal.

Not a structural engineer, but the horizontal timber could be acting as a collar, preventing spread, so maybe nothing to worry about. not really sure why they haven’t just birds mouthed the rafters in though?!

Has anyone got a detail for this? I was just about to pull the trigger on gypframe, but the majority of my stud walls will be in the roof and have to deal with a pitched ceiling.

sandtoft rivius antique slate (interlocking clay). Best price I could get was £1.99+vat about 3 months ago

Yep

Osb over rafter memvrane counter batten and at the fascia.. fascia kicked up 70mm above rafter legs eaves tray mebrane 25mm ventilation eaves tray Gse tray solar

I’ve just done this I used two eaves trays. Yeah they’re not 380mm like to instructions, but enough I was comfortable with. I will do a full write up at some point

I’ve got significantly more holes in my membrane from the battens

25mm from brissco I didn’t do any reconciling. The tray has the membrane lapped over it. And the screw holes are into pvc fascia. I’m not concerned about water getting in there.

I’ve also got osb then membrane. went with vent above the tray.

I wouldn’t worry that much, you’ll be nailing through it again with the normal battens at a gauge less than that!

For completeness, here’s the top of the valley using the dry valley top closure

Really pleased with how this detail ended up!

Green dewalt with the receiver. I tried using the receiver with a cheapo green laser from Amazon, it didn’t work, I got the matching dewalt laser. Goes through batteries but really pleased

I managed to make MCS work for me. I was quoted £3.5k after the grant for valiant arotherm 7kW (£4k) and matching 200l unistor uvc (£1k) , and the extra bits like the duo pipe in the slab (£300), vr71 control (£150), sensocomfort (£200). Oh, and ecology give me £500 cashback for an MCS installed heatpump. Couldnt of done it cheaper myself.

I’m doing the same. Big reno and replacing oil boiler for ASHP. Octopus were useless and couldn’t do anything than put the current EPC into their quoting, which of course, resulted in a grossly oversized ASHP. in the end I got a few local MCS registered firms round who were more than happy to run the heat loss calcs based on plans. The one I went with even laid the insulated ASHP flow/return before I laid the slab! They’ve yet to come back to install the rest because I’m still not ready 💀

Thoughts on how to finish this? Cut the rubber closure level, then underlay lead that laps the fascia? id like to have gotten the closure tight to the fascia, but there’s not enough material or flex.

Replaced the valleys with the ones you suggested @Dave Jones. Just waiting for the bottom closures to arrive and will have a play flashing the bottom of the valley. Probably with some lead too. just had another look at the photo above. I was going to install a gutter to the dormer, but I’m tempted not to bother now!

Thanks so much @Dave Jones @Mike. Thoughts on the dry valley closures top and bottom? presumably with counter batten, the valley would sit ontop 2 battens? As opposed to sitting on 1 batten for a normally battened roof. the valley is centered to the valley, I think the lead work in the photo is making it look like the center is off to the right, due to how the lead is formed over the tile

Bit more context

Hi, first time doing a roof and lead work. I’ve got a valley to work out, from where the hip meets a dormer. I’ve struggled to find any details online so have opted just to get a bit of lead up here and have a play. Am I on the right tracks here, before I bash it about anymore? Im considering cutting the fascia on the pencil mark, such that I can run that row of tiles under the fascia/soffit