LiamJones

Self level and glue? Minimum buildup and maximum heat transfer?

I’m also looking into this, favouring pine t+g at the moment

I had to put in writing I only wanted heating downstairs, and then they only sized for heat loss downstairs, which I was confident after using Jeremy’s spreadsheet was more than enough for whole house heat loss. Otherwise they were going to way oversize. I’ve no emitters upstairs so it all sort of worked out. This was under BUS scheme

Do we know if the valuation office will revalue the property after a period of being uninhabitable? For renovation purposes, the trade off may be the saving of no council tax during renovation vs a potential re-band after renovation, offsetting any initial short term savings? I’ve currently not attempted to reclaim any council tax during a deep refurb, for fear of a steep increase in council tax once completed?

and for the lounge I laid wood fibre underlay and then floating laminate. Don’t have any pics of this

Are you going to tile over? If so, can you tile directly onto the over floor boards? I did that with the wundaboards, after applying the appropriate primer.

If you’re insulated and air tight enough, there’s no need to heat upstairs. Get some cheap Bluetooth thermometers and place the around the house, you’ll get a feel for heat loss and wether you need to supplement heat upstairs.im more worried about cooling upstairs than heating mine!

Running copper end to end is the only way to guarantee a solid connection, but that doesn’t help you now. Can you run a temporary cat5/6 to one of the cams, just until you sort out the plugs? Even then, I’m not sure I’d ever trust home plugs for home security purposes.

Can you remove the switch to take that out the equation? Run a single ring directly off the homeplug? Dependant on results, swap the homeplug or the switch? I’d be surprised if the route cause were the rings

The forum generally pushes people to publishing disconnected threads about specific problem, rather than document progress via blogs.

I agree, I think blogs are very hidden here, coming from other forums I was used to seeing them front a centre. I love being able to follow people’s journeys, but here it’s hard. I’ve kinda got used to it now and just browse recent activity. A way to see all blogs, with options to order search, order by views, posts, most recent post. Or even build type, budget, stage, you could think of loads of ways to search for interesting blogs/projects.

Yeah any ral colour you want, ours are agate grey 7038.

Would choose lift and slide over pure sliders. More airtight, and hopefully not let the ants in like my previous pure sliders did. We went with expressbifolds LS25 in the end as the best value IMO. Paid about £6k for 4x2.1m last year. Only double glazed 1.3U

Looking very smart, what eaves detail did you use in the end? And what the detail above the top corner of the array? Lead flashing that was too high, so cut the tile round it?

Just ordered the £5 VAI0020266328 plug. Thanks to those on this thread 🥵

It sounds like you already know a fair bit, grab a pen and paper, and do the plans yourself. That’s what I did! Helps you understand all the details. It’s really not that complicated. You should be able to draw a continuous airtight line through all your details. Here’s how I did mine

Be keen to see how you get on with it, maybe it’s been out of stock because they’re dropping it/people don’t rate it?

Hey @Nickfromwalesthanks for the comment last night, gave me some confidence and motivation to go at it again today, armed with a bag of STANDARD set adhesive 🤣. I had been using rapid, because the tile supplier recommended rapid to prevent the adhesive being sucked into the natural stone and discolouring. But, id rather a good tile job, than worrying about discolouring. Mixed the bag up in 3rds. My confidence really took a knock after smashing whole bags of rapid set downstairs for the limestone floor! and what a difference that made, gave me so much time to lay and adjust, getting it all perfect! And ended up doing significantly more. but yes, next time I’ll set the former to the height of the SLC minus 2mm for UFH cable, not the height of the tile backer board! the SLC has made the rest of the room a doddle to tile! So I forgive it for making my former a nightmare. Could probably have got away without the levelling clips, but they’re a nice safety net.

This blog post is out of order, I’ve lots of other content yet to post, but thought it important to capture in the moment. I’ve spent the last few days preparing my en-suite floor for tiling. cut out the 22mm p5 chipboard ready for the shower former. plumb the 40mm shower waste to a 50mm solvent weld pipe, which was a smaller size than the 40mm solvent weld adapter I had. Turns out compression fittings are able to go from 40mm solvent weld (42mm OD) to 40mm OD shower waste. add batten and 18mm plywood level with the post joists, prime chipboard with SBR. Lay 12mm tile backerboard (could have got away with 10mm, but went 12mm to match the walls, less waste) on tile adhesive, and screwed at 300 centres. Install 22mm lussostone former on top of the ply, on a bed of tile adhesive. Use a CT1 like mastic for between the joints for waterproofing. Lay electric UFH at 100mm centres, just to take the chill off the tiles, not intended as a means to heat the space. set packers to level, ready for self leveller. Foam gaps. Pour flexible fibre self leveller, trowel to packers, spike roller. (Note, the fibres really gnarl up the roller, need tclean between buckets) Grout flout tile adhesive over the former to the built in falls. Self leveller would ruin this. Dry lay marble tiles and cut to falls. I was using an electroplated marble blade in my grinder, meant to reduce chipping, but went blunt real quick and ended up ruining a couple tiles, switched to a turbo blade that was actually pretty good. In the future i wouldn’t use the electroplated blade. Tonight I’ve just started to tile and really struggled. Because I self levelled the room and not the tray, I built up 7mm up to the edge of the former, but only spread 2mm adhesive over the top wires in the former. That leaves a 5mm deficit, that needs to be made up over the whole former whilst tiling. That’s a lot of adhesive if you add in 3mm adhesive bed going over the rest of the room. I laid 3/4 of the former, but I ripped 2/4 back up again, I was using rapid set adhesive and i wasn’t able to get it to a standard I was happy with, joints out of line, excessive lippage. if I were to do it again (I’ve got 2 more formers to do), i’d sacrifice a dead level room, to reduce build up at the edge of the former. The former is designed with built in falls, and by building up, I’ve destroyed this. I could have also gone 2-3mm lower with the self leveller and still achieved a level floor, given 3mm adhesive would still be applied over the top of the bare UFH in places. what a nightmare!

I’ve gone ubiqui for all my networking + security needs. Makes the cost of the ‘hub’ more palatable, and it’s rock solid. Got 4 g5 turrets connected to a dream machine pro. Will add a ubiquiti doorbell + chime to the mix at some point, but been OOS for a while, expecting a g5 doorbell to be announced soon. Or I go with a gate + intercom setup, that’d be nice.

Hey @TerryE. Google search results for buildhub are significantly degraded, I think since the above migration. Doesn’t look like Google is able to crawl the forum as well. https://support.google.com/webmasters/answer/7489871?hl=en#zippy=

Ubakus.de

With that said, I’d focus on airtightness first with that place, it was pretty leaky, and 200mm of PIR under the slab wouldn’t help that. I guess the only reason I dug the slab out of this current one I’m doing, was because I upgraded energy efficiency everywhere.

I’ve used wunda over floor boards befofe in a 3 bed semi renovation with no additional energy saving measures. A warm floor was nice, but I don’t know if it saved money, as I never heated it with rads. Energy usage was about £250pm in 2019. 3 bed semi 70mm cavity blown beads. for what it’s worth, if I did it again, I’d probably dig the slab out and do it properly with insulation under and UFH embedded in slab, but, there’s no doubt that’s more expensive to do in the first instance. If I couldn’t justify the “proper” way, the wunda board are a good half way house, and I’d prefer them over rads for sure, even if it didn’t save any money.

Is it just a case of going to a fabricators and grabbing a slither of steel they’ve got laying about? Or do I go and buy a “steel straight edge” from somewhere 🤣