LiamJones

Hi, I need to run 150mm to/from atmosphere. These 2 ducts will need to run through 100mm masonry, 80mm cavity (EPS beads), 100mm masonry, 100mm EPS EWI, Krend silicone. can I just insulated the duct up to the inner leaf, or do I need to insulate the duct all the way through. If I sealed the duct to the inner leaf, the likelihood of moisture being in the wall buildup is low, right? Pre-insulated 150mm ends up at 172 o/d. I’d prefer to keep the size down, all things being equal.

Not a structural engineer, but the horizontal timber could be acting as a collar, preventing spread, so maybe nothing to worry about. not really sure why they haven’t just birds mouthed the rafters in though?!

Has anyone got a detail for this? I was just about to pull the trigger on gypframe, but the majority of my stud walls will be in the roof and have to deal with a pitched ceiling.

sandtoft rivius antique slate (interlocking clay). Best price I could get was £1.99+vat about 3 months ago

Yep

Osb over rafter memvrane counter batten and at the fascia.. fascia kicked up 70mm above rafter legs eaves tray mebrane 25mm ventilation eaves tray Gse tray solar

I’ve just done this I used two eaves trays. Yeah they’re not 380mm like to instructions, but enough I was comfortable with. I will do a full write up at some point

I’ve got significantly more holes in my membrane from the battens

25mm from brissco I didn’t do any reconciling. The tray has the membrane lapped over it. And the screw holes are into pvc fascia. I’m not concerned about water getting in there.

I’ve also got osb then membrane. went with vent above the tray.

I wouldn’t worry that much, you’ll be nailing through it again with the normal battens at a gauge less than that!

For completeness, here’s the top of the valley using the dry valley top closure

Really pleased with how this detail ended up!

Green dewalt with the receiver. I tried using the receiver with a cheapo green laser from Amazon, it didn’t work, I got the matching dewalt laser. Goes through batteries but really pleased

I managed to make MCS work for me. I was quoted £3.5k after the grant for valiant arotherm 7kW (£4k) and matching 200l unistor uvc (£1k) , and the extra bits like the duo pipe in the slab (£300), vr71 control (£150), sensocomfort (£200). Oh, and ecology give me £500 cashback for an MCS installed heatpump. Couldnt of done it cheaper myself.

I’m doing the same. Big reno and replacing oil boiler for ASHP. Octopus were useless and couldn’t do anything than put the current EPC into their quoting, which of course, resulted in a grossly oversized ASHP. in the end I got a few local MCS registered firms round who were more than happy to run the heat loss calcs based on plans. The one I went with even laid the insulated ASHP flow/return before I laid the slab! They’ve yet to come back to install the rest because I’m still not ready 💀

Thoughts on how to finish this? Cut the rubber closure level, then underlay lead that laps the fascia? id like to have gotten the closure tight to the fascia, but there’s not enough material or flex.

Replaced the valleys with the ones you suggested @Dave Jones. Just waiting for the bottom closures to arrive and will have a play flashing the bottom of the valley. Probably with some lead too. just had another look at the photo above. I was going to install a gutter to the dormer, but I’m tempted not to bother now!

Thanks so much @Dave Jones @Mike. Thoughts on the dry valley closures top and bottom? presumably with counter batten, the valley would sit ontop 2 battens? As opposed to sitting on 1 batten for a normally battened roof. the valley is centered to the valley, I think the lead work in the photo is making it look like the center is off to the right, due to how the lead is formed over the tile

Bit more context

Hi, first time doing a roof and lead work. I’ve got a valley to work out, from where the hip meets a dormer. I’ve struggled to find any details online so have opted just to get a bit of lead up here and have a play. Am I on the right tracks here, before I bash it about anymore? Im considering cutting the fascia on the pencil mark, such that I can run that row of tiles under the fascia/soffit

If you want the best of the best, have a look at the BSPB turfgrass seed 2024 pdf it rates all the top grass seeds. You can then use this information to compare blends available on the market. Back in 2019 I used this information to decide on Barenbrug RPR sport. This was used in some premier league stadiums. https://www.thelawnforum.com/ Is a great resource

You may well need the gse mk08 top flashing too, I don’t have a part number for that. also worth mentioning the velux flashing kits are the specific ODL ones. I got the black ones ODL MK08 050001

They were quite hard to source. I couldn’t find any stock in the UK. I ended up going to midsummer and getting them to order in the side flashings from GSE. For the new v2022 frames and for the MK08 velux I needed the following two parts numbers, per window. ART105512 left ART105498 right i obtained these numbers from technical.support@gseintegration.fr who provided a BOM for my project, attached.

March this year. No idea about 300mm