LiamJones

Thanks so much @Dave Jones @Mike. Thoughts on the dry valley closures top and bottom? presumably with counter batten, the valley would sit ontop 2 battens? As opposed to sitting on 1 batten for a normally battened roof. the valley is centered to the valley, I think the lead work in the photo is making it look like the center is off to the right, due to how the lead is formed over the tile

Bit more context

Hi, first time doing a roof and lead work. I’ve got a valley to work out, from where the hip meets a dormer. I’ve struggled to find any details online so have opted just to get a bit of lead up here and have a play. Am I on the right tracks here, before I bash it about anymore? Im considering cutting the fascia on the pencil mark, such that I can run that row of tiles under the fascia/soffit

If you want the best of the best, have a look at the BSPB turfgrass seed 2024 pdf it rates all the top grass seeds. You can then use this information to compare blends available on the market. Back in 2019 I used this information to decide on Barenbrug RPR sport. This was used in some premier league stadiums. https://www.thelawnforum.com/ Is a great resource

You may well need the gse mk08 top flashing too, I don’t have a part number for that. also worth mentioning the velux flashing kits are the specific ODL ones. I got the black ones ODL MK08 050001

They were quite hard to source. I couldn’t find any stock in the UK. I ended up going to midsummer and getting them to order in the side flashings from GSE. For the new v2022 frames and for the MK08 velux I needed the following two parts numbers, per window. ART105512 left ART105498 right i obtained these numbers from technical.support@gseintegration.fr who provided a BOM for my project, attached.

March this year. No idea about 300mm

I’ve got a quote from warmcel in Norwich. £19.25/m2 for 200mm

The resin fixings worked a dream, thank you!

that’s all I’ve got to hand this evening

Ah yes, good idea! I did suggest resin to the SE in the first instance, because that’s how I fixed my ledger boards. Thanks!

It’s this with the 4x2 swapped for 100x50 compacfoam

Structural engineer suggested Rawlplug FF1 10mm screws. Now fixing to the medium density 7.3n blocks at the threshold, and it’s cracked the block! Any suggestion?

So replace the 4x2 with 100x50 compacfoam? Resin anchors into the blockwork? 400 centres? I can’t find a detail from compacfoam for level threshold in EWI.

ah yes, there is a 25mm PIR perimeter upstand

That’s a good idea, but yeah afraid I’m already poured putting doors in in a couple weeks

Just noticed I’ve drawn it wrong, the outside limestone tiles will be level with the top of the threshold, like inside.

Hi. What do you think about this detail. 4m sliding doors to be installed 50mm out into the 100mm EWI. Supported by 4x2 screwed into masonry. aka picture frame. Level threshold in and out. Other options I’ve thought about, compacfoam (pricey), keeping door on blockwork (thermal bridge)

I wonder if you could have gone standard PIR in this kind of buildup, rather than the more expensive k5? What even is the difference?

Just used Cromer vent 3 pro. No complaints

I too am considering the rivius tiles. They look nicer than a concrete thin leading edge (TLE) tile, should hold colour a lot longer and weigh less. Only downside appears to be the cost. Best I’ve managed to find is 1.97ex vat a tile vs 1.16 for the TLE

Any updates to this thread, I too am now considering cladding over 100mm EPS EWI, but not much information is available online, relative to thin coat render. Got quoted £75/m2+vat for render. Weighing up alternatives such as cladding and brick slips.

Hey @will_k back again with another question! Did you run the EWI up to the ply, or did you then run ~80mm over the top of the ply and window frame to create an EWI reveal? Struggling with this detail atm.

60m2 slab from the 70s is gunna be no thicker than 100mm. That’s 6m3 of concrete to crush. 12 ton maybe. £33ex a ton for type 1. £400. By the time you’ve hired a crusher, you’ll be no better off. £150 for a grab if you need to get rid of it. I’d just buy fresh type 1 in next time for sure

Yes, but it’s far harder to level and compact than type 1. I did the same, but if I did it again I’d get rid of the concrete or use it on the drive and get fresh type 1 for slab