oliwoodings

See where he plans to run an EV charger off this in the future. What you're proposing does not sound suitable at all.

I've fitted a unitrap, happy with the quality and flexible installation options.

Have you considered insulated roof panels e.g the ones by kingspan?

Lapped feather edge with some breather membrane underneath? Bit of clear silicone where it meets the wall?

+1 to trend's high tooth fine blades. Got one for doing kitchen panels, perfect cuts with no tear out.

Personally I'd be worried about introducing further cold bridging with a brick course given you aren't planning on any additional floor insulation, unless you insulate the inside of the brick course somehow. If it were me I'd put oversized dpc under the sole plates, extending out either side and once the walls are up I'd lap the dpc up underneath the breather membrane so the sole plate isn't exposed at all. That's what I did on mine, worked well

What do you mean by 'suggested 150mm'? Nothing wrong with putting it straight on top, but depending on the detailing of the slab you could get cold bridging at the edges if the sides of the concrete are exposed. Do you have details of the build up of the slab?

At some point they are gonna need a switch somewhere - if they run two cables then the router will be full, preventing additional devices being added there without a switch. What's so bad about having a switch?

You can't bypass the router in the way you are describing, and there is no need to. You can only have one device plugged into the modem and it has to be capable of communicating with the upstream connection, which is precisely what the router/gateway does. The router itself then manages the LAN. A switch is not cable of doing this alone. Just plug the cable you end up running into one of those spare ethernet ports in your last picture, no need to buy a switch. If you end up wanting to plug a pc in on the other end as well, then buy a switch at that point in time and put it in the back room, plugging both the AP and pc into it.

I have just completed a garden studio for my wife's massage business. Almost identical wall lay up to yours, with 100mm PIR, 45mm service batten and regular PB. Inside it is quieter than the house - and that's even with one wall being mostly glass. For a home office, 70mm PIR will do you absolutely fine both thermally and acoustically. If you want to save some cash, check out https://www.secondsandco.co.uk/ . They buy up insulation 'seconds' and resell them. Their high quality seconds are more than adequate for a garden building, I saved a good £700 going with them.

Yeah is there a reason you're going with acoustic insulation in the external walls? The thermal performance of that is going to be shocking. And the acoustic performance won't be great either because afaik you're meant to leave an air gap for the acoustic insulation for it to work best. Save yourself some time, money and space. Use 70mm PIR in-between the studs, which leaves you with a service void for cables etc. Then just regular PB over the top. If you want more insulation, you can get 90mm PIR and then batten out the studs to create your service void.

I have a Samsung ultra wide with support for picture-in-picture and picture-by-picture. I've ended up using it always in PbP mode, with an equal split. Basically the same as just having two monitors but with no bezel in-between. I'm pretty happy with it, and occasionally I'll switch it back to single screen mode for massive spreadsheets.

Unless you actively have an interest in home networking and general geekiness, I would recommend a WiFi mesh. Installed Amazon's eero system at my mum's place, has been rock solid unless she accidentally turns them off at the wall! Personally I'm running ubiquiti gear, but that's because I enjoy hacking around with that kind of thing. Wouldn't recommend for someone who wants it to 'just work'.

You could hire a drywall sander to try and get it off and get the wall generally even. Failing that, pay someone to skim it.

If you're fine with a ledge then crack on! 50mm battens on the brick, fill between with PIR, vapour barrier over the top and then plasterboard. You'd probably want to bring up the brick battens & insulation so it overlaps the timber frame a bit to avoid cold bridging in the corner of the ledge.

I'd definitely think about your brick insulation first before deciding on the timber frame above. Could impact the design of the frame. Check out Hardie Plank VL for the cladding, you can do vertical with it, they have it in black, very sleek.

I wish I had discovered this approach before I did my garden building, so smart!! Would have saved me the headache I now have of water running back under the sole plates (I changed the shape of the building slightly after the slab had been done, meaning the slab is larger than the footprint).

I got these, very happy with them: https://www.screwfix.com/p/zinc-eos-outdoor-up-down-wall-light-anthracite/813fh They do a single-direction one as well. Chose them because they are diecast aluminium so won't rust. Quality is really high, feels really solid. Leagues apart from the steel LAP ones I got for a less-important project.

I wouldn't bother doing an insulated slab for a garden building or even doing brick courses. For mine I just did 100mm MOT, dpm, 100mm reinforced slab. Then bolted sole plates down with oversized dpc underneath, which I later lapped up underneath the breather membrane of the walls. For the floor buildup, I put more dpm down over the concrete, taped to the inside of the dpc. Then put 100mm PIR on top, taped with foil tape. Then floating 18mm t&g osb subfloor on top of that (glued). Really simple to DIY, really effective.

I don't think the one you linked can go flush, unless you left big gaps down the side. When the doors open fully they cut back across the corners, hence why in their in-situe photos it's still shown proud.

I had a Samsung two-room split unit installed in our two-room garden building for £1600. Very very happy, cools and heats well, WiFi connected so we can preheat it etc.

Just be careful with the amount of weight you put up there, those are pre-manufactured trusses which will not be engineered to support significant permanent loading downwards on the bottom chord.

Do you mean 32mm? Found it by the metre on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114503522757?hash=item1aa8f119c5:g:RdMAAOSwn45Zw51U&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4MofBLpnApshxOJCvi6P%2FOV%2FYZVJJZTB2ZsuZ%2B13JSvKlOmExq9pfztQGjnd6x3mfs9JqMKw9IH0sRsoagjoF3h%2BBTG0ThnOV7%2Bu%2FRbIVVZNXqjlfKsWyQYDHSfo0ej%2FFC%2FqUvhimNREEExyl0PuYUp%2F5XRmbpyZtJoUaaNtsAYnJkVzGEbqXXxPrKA%2BvwZby%2BMHqFaa9RM1eYlBy6aOCcS4M1RdmnIRA5HYiRqXuew%2BenJo7q6rP6t7eLpuPGEOjnm6VAsShQNycx7ihXZDVYrkHlL%2FHhyw9sWfuuGa7EtP|tkp%3ABk9SR9ac8o-QYw

Do you actually need the space inside the roof area, or could you just board out a ceiling underneath the trusses (9mm osb or shuttering ply would do the trick on the cheap) and then fill on top with loft insulation? Would probably work out cheaper than PIR and you could get more insulation in. You could build in a loft hatch for access etc.

Got all my AEG gear through https://www.appliancesuperstore.co.uk/, they were able to order things directly that weren't even in stock on AEG website itself. Very good service.