8ball

I'll source an electrician ?

Hello, is it OK to have an exit point for a toilet extraction located on a garage soffit to the front of the property? I had a look around on the net and couldn't find anything that says its a no go but I thought I'd ask here for a more solid answer? Thanks

I am installing a new downstairs toilet (toilet and small basin) as I only have 1 toilet upstairs and am interested to see peoples views on if I need an electrician Part P certified or if I can do the electrical works myself. The existing light and wall switch are already in the correct place so the only other wiring that needs doing is for the extractor fan. I am just being ultra cautious in how I go about this project as I have just applied for Building Regs and don't want to upset them doing things I shouldn't be doing. Cheers guys

Cheers Ian, being that no foundations are needed then hopefully I can skip to the drainage connections ?

Hi all, I am making a start on a new downstairs toilet as we only have 1 bathroom upstairs. I have just paid the £165 for building regs and was wondering what the process is regarding inspections for the work I am carrying out. At present the area for the new toilet is empty and I am ready to build a stud wall and commence with plumbing /drainage, does the building inspector need to see the area before I start work? I will be completing most of the work myself and hopefully getting a competent person to sigh off the electrics. I already contacted the BC regarding a few questions but don't want to bother them too much and throw up red flags as I know they are a delicate bunch. How may inspections are usually made on the creation of a downstairs loo as the project is really small? all of the work I have carried out on my house has not required building regs so I know nothing about the process. I have read various documents on the regs website but it does not go into much detail about the exact process. Any help and guidance much appreciated guys ?

Good idea newHome ? Cheers

I had cases when the item on the B&Q website is at a lower cost than the TradePoint website also I have used my TradePoint card when buying in store and it has not applied any discount. I just don't bother using them anymore.

Hi guys I have been doing most of my house renovation work myself apart from jobs that need a qualified installer such as the boiler and consumer unit etc. I have 1 small bathroom in the house and would like it to be completed by a bathroom fitter as it needs to be done as quickly as possible, the speed I work at it wouldn't be done for months. So I thought I would post on BuildHub 1st to see if by chance that anyone has used a fitter in the Banbury area that was any good. The bathroom has a shower, sink and toilet with no bath so I should think a skilled fitter could fly through it. I have asked locally already but no one seems to have had their bathroom done recently. Cheers people ?

I'm too tight to splash out that kind of cash ?

Its a really really good paint just need to make it a bit tougher for the kitchen.

Hello guys, I have installed my own kitchen apart from the cabinet draw fronts and doors which I am currently working on but they will need painting/spraying. In the past I made some plantation shutters and used rustins MDF sealer then Rustins MDF primer and for the top coat I used 2/3 coats of Duluxe Diamond, they came out really well but I am looking for a paint finish that is a bit more hard wearing for the kitchen. I was thinking about using some kind of clear top coat that would give another layer of protection to the paint but its hard to work out if clear top coats will actually effect the paint layer underneath due to reactions in the compounds of the products. Also I am seeing that it would be a waste of time using an expensive paint such as Duluxe Diamond if its going to be covered with a clear top coat over it, surely the top coat does all the work of protecting so the paint underneath can be a lesser quality paint than D Diamond. I would appreciate any advice as I really don't have that much experience of creating a resilient paint surface. Cheers ?

So I fitted the 4m oak worktop and up stand which went well thanks to the users of Buildhub ? but now at either end I have to somehow smarten things up a bit, how do the pro's go about it?

? ..38mm

Thanks joe90 this is what I was thinking just after I posted and now you have reassured me ? Mr Punter I am lucky its a straight run so just the expansion gap at the back ? Thanks guys for the help ... happy days

Hi all - I'm about to fit an 4m oak worktop and have been informed to leave a 5mm expansion gap along the back wall, is this correct? So if the worktop expands and retracts that much how do you go about fitting the upstand as just fixing it to the wall and not the worktop will leave a slight gap between the upstand and the worktop allowing dirt to build up in that gap. As always any help and advice is much appreciated ?

Thanks for the advice guys, just off out now to get some Mapie Ultimate from Screwfix ?

My PC is still on Windows 7........AND ITS BRILLIANT? My Laptop is on Windows 10 and I hate it? We are all in such a rush to get the latest of everything but sometimes it does not mean its better, in my case I would say about 60% of the time. Old kindle reader is brilliant, upgraded to new version and dont like it. Old Amazon echo is brilliant, upgraded to new version and dont like it. Old Samsung Tablet is brilliant, upgraded to a new Tab3 and well meh I could go on but its really really boring....yawn

Wickes have some Setcrete Universal Floor Levelling Compound - 20kg on sale plus I get 10% discount. I want to level a small area of floor but it requires a compound of 10mm and the stuff on sale only goes to 6mm so the question is can I just use layers to build it up? Its over a screed floor Ta

Sometimes I have argued till I,m blue in the face about some standard or another then a smart *** gets his tablet out and puts me to shame I think what I'm better off doing is to have a hidden 13amp power socket recessed into the window board then I'm covered for all future changes and standards, not as low profile as a USB port but def future proof. Hmm wondering if a plug socket on a window board is regs approved?

except this http://www.belkin.com/us/p/P-F2CU029/

good find, I'm liking those

Thanks for the info but isn't everything tech transient technology? I seem to always be upgrading something because there is a bigger better version. I have Tado to control heating and water but I bet a bottom dollar in the next year they will have a never shinier version that dries towels making your body blower redundant @Onoff USB-C is the part of the cable that connects to the device, the other end is a standard USB

Ok so my mission is to try and fit USB point into a window board for charging and powering items, I don't want a plug socket with USB ports in them as already have them around the house. I want a single port hopefully very low profile/ non obtrusive . Has anyone done anything like this that could give me some advice on how to go about it? I have my new MDF window boards which are arriving soon and its an ideal opportunity to fit them with some teck. Ta

A general builder just across the street from me has just installed JG pipe in his own house for underfloor heating, hes been in the trade for years and really knows his stuff. The house is not a flip he plans to stay for years so I should think he wanted the best for the UFH. I ended up using JG for heating and water and have had no problems at all. If I see him over the weekend I'll ask what manifolds he used.

I had never had a go at plastering but decided to do a small bedroom upstairs, the ceiling had artex which made things a bit more complicated. It all came out great but I must admit I recently had a plasterer in for a quote for the downstairs area as more light hits surfaces and is seen more.