TheMitchells

Now this may be a silly question - but when I am ordering the electric mat for the UFH, do I use the actual size of the room or do I deduct the areas that will not have the heating, ie under the cupboard/base units? And if so, how far from the wall/units should the wires start?

Too Much information!! ?

and we could link the UFH wires ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323321925126?ul_noapp=true and a towel rail to this 'Bad boy'?? Looks impressive.

okay, thats something I shall take into account.

I assume you are talking about the towel radiator? or was it the UFH thats on a timer?

Thanks, Peter. A much better price. And I dont think they would be too upset at an extra £10 a month to heat the floor. The towel rail would be on for a couple of hours during the day and I have seen this one. https://www.screwfix.com/p/electric-pre-filled-towel-radiator-white-980-x-550mm/3012p#product_additional_details_container I think it was recommended on a post here but I can't find it now.

Okay. I doubtwe'll use the panels for the whole room so I guess the dry side of the room will be plastered. this is pretty much the plan of ours except the shower will be on the left hand wall and the door will be facing the loo. Thanks @Crofter I have pinched your plan.?

In the parents new wet room (the foundations are being done tomorrow), we shall have a concrete floor over insulation. As its for elderly folks who feel the cold, I need to make sure the room is warm enough for them. We only have electric in the bungalow and no central heating (its a warm air system). So my plan is electric mat UFH, tiling over it, and an electric heated towel rail on a timer to come on in the morning about an hour before they have a shower. I am looking at the following for the UFH. https://www.theunderfloorheatingstore.com/electric-underfloor-heating/underfloor-heating-loose-cables/warmup-loose-wire-underfloor-heating-kit the room is 2.7m by 1.8m with units along one wall so am looking at a system to cover about 3.5m2. But Dad is worried about the cost of running it. What can I tell him? Presumably it only heats when it needs to come up to temperature so it will not be on all the time. Any advice welcome!

Thought I would resurect the post as I am planning on using the Multipanels in the parents wet room. One question - do we fix the panels directly onto the block walls or do we need to seal the walls first? Thanks.

@Nickfromwales - just checking your comment here about using CT1 and grout at the internal corner. I have grouted our shower using waterproof grout and adhesive but have not sealed the grout in any way. Should I be thinking of doing that? the tiles are stuck onto Aquaboard.

another thing to think about is the option of 'comfort height toilets - these are designed to be taller than standard designs. These units are great for taller or less able users. The height on these toilets relieves the user of pressure on their knees and joints, with a much more comfortable seating position. https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/toilets/comfort-height-toilets just one website (there are others) with a limited range but gives the idea. And we alwaysraise the height of the basin as the normal heigh ones are too low for us and bending over that little bit more doesnt help with bad backs.

no - its a new build, hopefully starting this week. No wooden floor. the wooden floors were on previous showers we have done. But things have progressed. Dad has now said we can do a tiled floor in the shower, making that nice and easy. But he wants carpet in the rest of the room!! They like their comfort.? I am showing them a neighbours wetroom in a couple of days time so hopefully he will get the idea then and realise that carpets are not ideal for a wetroom..... Thanks for your comments. I am sure I will have more questions soon.?

We are again planning the wet room for my elderly parents as the builder seems like he may be finally starting work soon. We planned to have a tiled floor with a simple drain in the shower area, maybe using a former or letting the builder do it by eye (he says he's done it before). However, my father has seen our new shower and wants a shower tray like ours! But if the floor will be made of concrete, with insulation and electric UFH mat, how does the waste connect? on previous shower tray installations, we (okay - the OH) have had access to the area under the tray (wooden floorboards) to connect the waste but in this case, we won't. so how is the waste connected when lowering the shower tray? Its late when I ask this. I shall try UTube tomorrow to see if there are answers there but any advice will be gratefully received.

I would thoroughly recommend having a read of past copies of the Passivehouseplus magazines. I subscribed to them for a while and they cover lots of passivhaus builds, usually giving all the costs and materials/items used. really useful and shows how to build well with no extre costs than a 'normal' (cold/leaky/unhealthy) house. Good luck with the build.?

Maybe once the initial interest in Graven Hill has passed they may start reducing the costs of the plots, otherwise I think they will have an awful lot of bare plots! However, I am sure they will be getting lots of interest now with everyone asking where they can get hold of a £100k plot!

Popped to our local timber merchant and they only have pine decking boards. they look same as all decking boards, with a ribbed section on one side and smooth on the other. but I always thought pine would rot quicker than other woods, such as Douglas Fir or Larch. However, price was good and its local! is Pine any worse than the others? I dont seem able to get Douglas Fir or Larch nearby.

I may just do that - I only live at the other side of Bicester. Will send you a PM. ? As for the second programme, I was so proud of what those guys acheived. Okay, they may not be finished but that didnt matter. they had a house and eventually it will all get done. although I did wonder how that chap was allowed to live there without a bathroom or hot water! and to manage all that for around £300k in total was brilliant. Shame the rest of Graven Hill isn't full of these sort of houses and builders! But it wont be as the plots are all much more expensive. Sad!

yes, the hollow one do seem much cheaper. someone said they warp more but I dont know if thats true or not. Thanks for sorting out my maths - I see where I went wrong and had forgotten that I needed 1.5 lenghts per 3.6 side. I shall wait to see what the samples look like (I have three lots coming) and then compare prices with plain old timber decking. I have to go to the timber merchant for something else so will get a quote.

Has anyone used the composite decking products at Wickes? https://www.wickes.co.uk/Eva-Last-Composite-Deck-Board---Tiger-Cove-20mm-x-140mm-x-2-4m/p/178701 It says - latest in bamboo-polymer composite technology and tested in some of the harshest climates and conditions in the world, this composite decking is built to withstand all that Mother Nature has to throw at it. The composite will not rot and the revolutionary capped surface technology gives one of the most hardwearing, stain-resistant, scratch-resistant, slip-resistant and splinter-free surface finishes available. High UV stability means its colour won't fade and will last for years and years. It is reasonably cheap at £16 for a 2.4 m board. I think I'd need 19 boards for a 3.6 (one and half boards each length) x 2.6m deck . Which is £300 nearly. half what the composite boards at Tecimbertec are looking at.

look great! We're looking for decking boards so checking out the past posts. didnt really want to pay that much for boards but we did cedar 12 years ago and they rotted so want something a little longer lasting. there again - I doubt we'll still be here in 10 years so I guess it doesnt have to be too long lasting.

we filled loose rockwool into the boxed area, around the pipes and double plasterboarded with usual pb and that seemed to work well.

okay, thanks. good to know the rubber seal is useful. will give complete photographs when all done. still have the rest fo the room to tile.

Well, we have the screen, bought online from Ebay company for £91. it arrived within a couple of days and looks fine. we have attached the wall trim to the wall, sealing the back with clear sealant (Sikaflex EBT). The glass appears to be held in place with a clear, plastic trim. As seen here on the right with the metal wall trim (which is now attached to the wall). Is it recommended to use this? We plan to put a bead of clear Sikaflex at the back of the wall trim before inserting the glass screen, then the clear plastic thing gets pushed in to stop the glass moving. Is that right? And what happens at the bottom of the screen where it sits on the shower tray - again, a clear bead of Sikaflex? Shower enclosure so far..

The origonal theme of Graven Hill was that all the houses would be passivhaus but as things finally got going and plots/plot passports were developed, the passivhaus aspect had mysteriously disappeared. which is a shame. well good on them! I think the first two did a great job and I liked both houses. But I agree, shame there is not a bit more detail.

They are much higher than that. these were quite reduced prices. and they have not mentioned the fact the plots are alongside the new railway line into Bicester with a sewerage works next to that. We did consider it but not once we knew the location of the first 10 plots. Although if I could have guarenteed the one furthest away from the railway line, I may have considered it. prices for the reasonably sized plots and on the edge of the develoment, which are the ons we like, are in the region of £350k!!