JackofAll

Roof still not finished, but will not move as much.

Best of luck, the dream was an oak frame the reality was glulam trusses 🙂, look forward to your posts.

Is condensation a possibility or probability if there is no airgap at joist level if so, what's different when insulating at rafter level?

Is it necessary @nod , the outer membrane is breathable

So forgot to put on rafter roll on before membrane, half the roof is now slated. Could staple it on from inside to each side of rafter but this got me thinking... one section of the roof will be blown cellulose at rafter level, the rest cellulose at joist level. So is rafter roll necessary as the cellulose is breathable?

Thanks, have to say I've never heard of them.

What unit do you have Conor?

Thanks John, as with many other building reg minimums it's better to exceed their target, so how is that achieved in relation to MHRV? Is it all the air tightness detailing at the various junctions?

Thanks Steamy, made the same error. Think it's 160sqm after subtracting wall thickness.

Most ceilings are 2.8 with one room vaulted approx 10m x 4.6m x 4.3m and a section of hall also approx 4.9m x 2m x 4.3m vaulted. Probably difficult to calculate without exact measurements. Will sit down and tot it up. There will be 5 in the house.

Thanks Steamy, Does that mean 22%of total volume of 'stale' air is removed per hour? If so would it make more sense to have a boost mode should one/two showers be taken within an hour. Is .22ACH good or bad?

179sqm

Will check it out Dave, thanks.

Hi guys, thanks for replies, please see below taken from correspondence. To comply with part F of the Regulation, we believe the house should have a continuous supply of at least 200 m3/h. Therefore, we suggest a system with a larger unit that operates at 50-60% capacity to minimize power consumption and noise, even at night. Our design ensures a supplied fresh air rate of up to 300 m3/hour, and the system operates in normal mode at all times without the need for a boost mode. The normal mode effectively removes moisture and steam from bathrooms while maintaining ideal indoor air comfort. Did I misinterpret?

Just received a quote and have been told that because the unit(domekt cf700 (H) ) they are suppling is over sized in capacity by 50-60% there is no need for boost function. "Normal mode effectively removes moisture and steam". One girl takes 40 min showers, would imagine boost would be necessary in this scenario? Thoughts..

Thanks Jenki, I wonder how those batteries compare with the likes of dyness/ Huawei that seem to be the most popular mentioned over here with solar arrays.

Need to get a generator so got to thinking of getting one big enough to power the house. Originally budgeted 3.5 to 4k. When I looked into electric connection it's either 3500 or 4700 quid. So if I were to add the connection fee to the original budget that would easily get me a 20kva unit. Coupled with solar and not limited to 5kw inverter(if off grid) is it feasible? Wouldn't have funds for big battery though that will have to come later. Anyone doing similar? Thoughts welcome.

Thanks Nod, will look into the woodgrain stuff, never seen it before.

Trying to decide what colour fascia and soffit to fit. Will head the pvc route. Slate roof, white walls, RAL6027 windows. Was thinking of same colour as windows but can't get them apparently. So that leaves black or white. Any ideas cause I'm totally undecided and her indoors has no interest.

Thanks guys, it's a 25mm cavity, thought insulating it would have made more of a difference. Alot of effort/expense as you put it John.

You could just have a cold shower, then step into a toasty 20 degree room with no need for additional heating source. Problem solved, save your stones may disappear for an hour or 2.

Has anyone insulated their service cavity, if so what did you use? Any concerns re cable in contact with insulation?

Three queries, 1st, is there need to tape underside of counter battens? 2nd is there need for over fascia ventilation strips if counter battening? 3rd do all joins on membrane need to be taped? Background, cold roof, blown cellulose at joist level on two thirds of roof that marry into roof insulated at rafter level again with blown cellulose.

Perfect, thanks Russell.

Not sure if in the right section, can move if needs be. For airtightness at wall plate what production would you reccomend, we had to shim it up to 15mm.