zoothorn

@Onoff nice idea cheers.. I really just need tho one shelf here, & Id like to keep the old 'character' wall visible (once renovated/ very last job/ do over time once signed off etc). Id like to make a bookshelf for my upper room, in time too, so will use for reference tho. So Ive plumped for 244mm window board for this ledge.. a 3.66m full length will be fine/ cover almost all (will end a bit short, but hidden if under worktop opposite side of room to to door). 244mm ideal D for my cabinets to sit on too. Think it will look ok? or weird? I see on my Soudal pB adhesive (most of a can left) it can be used for general board wood etc to stick to walls. Think I could use to fix this mdf to the mortar ledge top-? even use for my 2x window sills too. Also thinking as I'll have enough left (2x 3.66, window boards delivered tmrw) to use it for my french doors step area: at the mo its a too-short/ funny sort of 3/4 of a step depth, & unfinished foil tape onto cls + ply top. 244mm mdf ontop = a better step depth. thx zoot

No. I am not. I fall asleep in front of my hfi belting out, or dvd menu music blaring out I snooze thru & I wake at 2 am on sofa/ being middleaged now I snooze alot etc. As to a stridectomy I'll hav to look that up on the vaillant site. As the moment what I need is a lobotomy. But you'll say Ive already had one Onoff (before you type it).

It is, & this is a pump.. but its not the pump I'm referring to. Once it enters the house boiler via the high presssure pipes (eminating from the outside compressor- introducing noise into the house this does itself via these 2 big vibrating pipes), there's a pump in the boiler > pushing I assume the water into cylinder. This is the primary culpit. ProDave is spot on as usual with his reply above. Lord alive I'm in such a pickle here. That's all I'll say as I've hijacked rbw's thread enough already. zoot

Thats very interesting.. lord if only Vaillant had: I have the ideal spot, well away from beds, I could have asked for my boiler/cylinder to be put!! I'm renovating it same time it was all installed! Im furious. As to your OP header 'what problems', after a 3+ hour call to Vaillant (yup) I realise -another- problem with this system, certainly for me: regardless of the time settings block periods you can input for both heating & HW to come on between.. the heating comes on anyway. Day and night. Its just intrinsic to how the system works now I'm just told. IE right now my next block heating period is 6pm to 8pm. But the rads are on (& noise as I said too). I cannot possibly afford to run rads constantly during the winter, but it overrides my decision to ask them come on for 2 hours am & pm... & puts the rads on any time during 24 hr period too (& never when I know when)!! so I am on constant tenterhooks now about this noise.. which is nigh on constant right now (& its mild outside). An utter disaster for me. I have had to agree to a £95 call out engineer on monday, altho its under guarantee, bc I have absolutely no other option (in case/ slimmest chance there -is- a problem with my boiler re. noise.. tho I know as its an electric pump doing it inside, its just highly likely the way its made/ nothing can ever be done to diminish it). Ruining my life this.

Odd I can't see daiking's suggestion/ missed this. Good idea/ would look good.. but too thick for my jigsaw I think (this shelf back joins to old wall = wiggly in/ out, contour copy/ guide trick to match the wall needed). I'm leaning twds 1" mdf, max I could handle tbh. Is this a viable option/ or look funny, it not being a window sill-?

Thanks jfb.. just cos I can make these tho doesn't mean I have the knowledge to know what material to use for X, or how best to fix it to Z.. being a step 1 amateur at all this still. Hope Ive shown I am capable tho, once Ive asked for help at a few jobs now.

Yes I can see from pics you've got tons of ideas & different things used.. only comes with experience that, unlike muggins here. Yup jfb, not the 'usual' cabinet maker tho.. had a couple of mine on gtr mag covers

Yup thinking shelve it.. have it as a useful cabinet perch (this being my workshop), just wondering about material options. Have I just got 1" mdf window sill, & my knotty often cupped 3/4" pse as options is my Q? I bet you'd have a more cunning idea!

Could anyone advise any ideas: I have a long 'shelf' 220mm x 4m area ontop my low retain wall I need to top with s'thing. I was thinking 1" bullnose mdf window board, but pricey @ £70 ish for 3.66m. You can just see it LHS in this old pic (now pB'd & skirted the block side). Any ideas? I can only think 3/4" pse board, but its pretty poor quality often cupped with knotty holes galore.

@Onoff yes thanks that does remind me to replace mine (I have 1 router with r'over bit in permanently in for my cab edges.. but forget what r it is, but it'll do as you say) with a quality one for a change.. helpful post! thanks.

@Onoff ok understood- thanks for that. The 1st R12 example I saw on skirting deemed "bullnose" in jewsons (& the more usual last R12 profile above.. but can't quite understand how this is done to be different to the previous one but nevermind I don't have an R12 anyway).. now that's one bizarre bull's nose shape in my book.

If you are determined to have one, Id strongly suggest fitting the boiler & cylinder as far away as possible/ farthest corner of house (& in a soundproofed enclosure too, seriously). The reason I think these are dished out foc (as mine has been so at least I'm not £10k out of pocket) is bc they aren't designed adequately enough to tamp the noise. No pdf info on any dB considerations for the inside units.. is fishy to me. When I saw the boiler sides clad in cheap black styrofoam.. & was told 'its sound insulation' once it was being fixed to my spare bedroom cupboard wall.. my alarm bells rang, but too late & I just had fingers x'd etc. But my worst fears have been passed in last 2 days. I cannot have this tmrw 6.45, so this ev I'll have to turn the whole system off.

Warning. Hi I have a 7kw unit.. I know its a bit short for your plan, but thought Id say a few things about my split 'Arotherm' Vaillant system 6 weeks installed. Its impossible to live with causing me huge stress: reason- noise. All dB info (on the pdf techhy pages) refers only to the fan/ compressor unit outside > & relative to a point measured outside. This unit is not a problem, standing even close to it its an unobtrusive purr. The problem is in the inside unit(s), the boiler primarily. Compressor noise (eminating from outside unit > entering house via 2 pipes) I had to try to eleiviate by expensive calls to Vaillant, &, not being able to rid it.. had to set the HW to go on at 7.30am, so this wretched noise doesn't drive me mad & actually wake me up in the adjacent bedroom before 7.30. This means I now can never have HW in the morning until 8.30 being an hour for it to do its compressor on/ off/ on thing for an hour in order to get HW up to temp. Once I'd done this, I could at least sleep strees free until 7.30, when it woke me up. Dreadful IMHO. I ran the CH for 1st time fri, & rads didn't get even my most modern insulated bedroom warm (more a distinctly average 'not cold'), my stone cottage rooms.. weren't adequately heated at all. My kitchen I have to revert back to a trusty £5 fan heater & just forget putting on the rad. Very poor, but it gets alot worse. The next morning, yesterday, & again today, I've been woken at 6.45 by the boiler (not the outside compressor to it noise entering house) making a very prominent electric motor noise on/ off/ on/ incessantly for 1 hr yesterday.. & 2 hours today. Absolutely infuriating. This is the 1st time in 6 weeks Ive had in installed, that Ive heard this motor start up/ off/ on/ off whining drone. Its so loud I can hear it downstairs & 1 room away, even in a new extention the noise is transsmitted along the rad pipes. I had planned to start a b&b with the two bedrooms: but now totally impossible due to this wretched boiler noise (motor noise is very prominent from it > to the cylinder in same room too).. so my future is affected, income etc, as one night spent in the room (the boiler's in the spare bed cupboard, as is the cylinder- where old one was removed, & where alot of people have them) will undoubtadly mean negative comments, & Id be unhappy to let it outs it is anyway. The next bedroom.. if I get woken up in here, then I cannot too let this room out really. I called Vaillant & my fitters about the compressor noise, who said it is normal, so there is no 'problem', & so I am stuck with having no HW ever before 8.30am (& the noise from this is still prominent IN the house after 7.30). But this new motor noise is so bad I cannot possibly live like this/ so I now have to spend £thousands getting it ripped out & something in its place instead. I am furious about it. I have a whole morning of expensive calls to make -again- to Vaillant to see if there's -any- possibility of roidding this new motor noise, or rather shifting it at the least to 7.30 am.. but I doubt it. Its not a fault too- its just how the damn thing is.

Ok I'm actually thinking its only one small 6" bit of skirting needed (if I were to make lowest step same W as others).. &you see Ive put a 45* mitre on the long wall skirting this bit would meet. I can make it a cm less so it goes in & it won't really be seen.. it just means a fiddly 6" like 'chimney' of carpet to fiddle into this bit.. which won't be my job. I think maybe this way is easier for me. Ok understand the 9mm roundover idea/ I will see if I have one. Thanks- making these 2 steps today, if I can..

@joe90 really appreciate your sketch joe, very helpful. Is the suggestion to square-edge rout the top edges > then add something like Peter's trim suggestion? (he replied just after your sketch). or rout the edge with a 18mm bullnose bit I don't have. I do have a 1/4 roundover I use for my amp cab edges.. maybe flip the top over & make do with whatever this might be called (a zoot bell end probably). My lowest new step LHS differs from yours in sketch.. my wall is set away from this step 6" or so: I assume leave a gap, & I skirt just one tiddly bit along wall here to butt up to the step (pain to carpet here but so be it I guess).. IE.. Not just make the lowest step wider than the others LHS so it meets the side wall-?

Right- I didn't know these existed, but, if these were part of what was being suggested (?) ... if so now I understand & can see a way to edge my 18mm marine ply- great. Thanks for that link.

@Onoff ok thanks for that Onoff. Its becoming increasingly difficult to consider anything other than a flat 90* top/ vertical bit/ top of next step, without any sticky outy lip now. Adding/ gluing made shaped bullnose bits onto thin ply is going to be a nightmare as I just can't think how to make these, let alone how it could possibly be strong enough if joined/ added on. Ideally a curved bottom step edge too.. but making it is too complicated, for me (IE how on earth you'd make a curved top edge bit without a template guide to follow round, which I presume means making this 1st, which Ive no idea how to) then making a shaped plinth bit for eg.. & this is nigh on an impossible prospect afaict. Just making these 2 steps the right height & strong enough is difficult enough & Im still struggling just with how to do this. What I need to ask, is how to make the lower 1st step (on the caber floor) so that its RHS is 'acceptable', as it will be seen. Do I clad it in something, skirting an option for here? Im almost putting a line thru the whole idea.. & keeping these wretched huge 2 steps: if I can't figure out this lower step then I'll have to revert back to leaving as it is.

Sorry what do you mean by bullnose on the front of ply (googled bullnose but not clear).. you mean a roundover edge IE a quarter of a circle, or, a half circle? (like primed mdf sill with its fully rounded edge). And then do you mean the routed bullnose as a glued -addition- to the sticky outy top step bit then? (why.. bc my top is thin/ IE to thicken it-?) I can't make out what you are implying as a suggestion with the second sentence ("And or rout" is throwing me: is it meant to be "Add or rout"??).

Yes but that costs me a ton for 3x bits of oak tho. I am on a budget here hence scrabbling about for offcuts to make these steps.. as the new room will be carpetted soon it makes sense to continue on you see, & it joins in with the carpet in the adjacent Master bedroom then.

@joe90 ok that's an idea to add s'thing under the 12mm sticky outy bit, thanks for the sketch joe. I do have some old marine ply 18mm for top of the middle step, if I can lower the 2x CLS 6mm. How long the sticky outy bit would you say is normal? Is it normal for carpet to go over the sticky outys, in, & down the vertical step bit? Id assume on stairs etc this is typical no? I don't want to make step shapes, out of all sorts of woody tat knocking about (IE must be covered), that can't be carpetted over tho.

The idea of doing this step-adding job next, is bc skirting in this top room done I'm moving twds quotes for carpetting. Just top room to carpet. As I hadn't even considered these steps finished off like carrerahill's in hardwood tops, Id just assumed the carpet job would extend to the steps. But could the steps effectively be carpetted as they are? not bc I'm changing my mind & leaving 2 huge steps as is.. but bc if I fettle 2 more steps, I 1) need to make them all similar, IE the front edges.. & 2) I need to establish if a carpetter can lay carpet up a sheer concrete face between the steps. I cannot believe how complicated this is just to add two steps!! for eg your suggestion is to have a 'lip' overhanging the front edges. But how do I make this if I'm constrained to 9mm ply as my top (bc 2x CLS + 9mm top = correct step addition to middle)-? I can't have a thin 9mm ply rounded off protrusion/ lip. The top step (the continuation of old masterbedroom floor) needs a 12mm ply addition before the carpet to make it flush with the masterbedroom floor: I can't fashion a rounded off 12mm 'lip' protrusion, different from the next steps thinner 9mm one. All I can think to do, is make each step similar to existing ones, IE a slight rounding off/ blunting the sharp front edge, but no 'lip' just a 90* situation like they are now. Is this a workable idea? Or am I missing something here?

@joe90 thanks for that joe.. Id honestly have bodged it if I hadn't asked. Is your idea with the rounded front edge to facilitate carpetting it? What would you suggest.. carpet these steps, or, make the top bit the final step surface (in which case any chip board offcut or mdf I can find will need to be covered in something). cheers zoot

@Ferdinand enjoyed that zoot clip! yes I was skirted-out y'day. I think maybe I need PIR in middle step: concrete ontop of old wall as it is = a big area of cold into the room/ IE anything to reduce this. So just a Q next of making these 2 steps then. The RHS will be visible, so I wonder how to make them? any ideas welcome.

Its only going to make sense if someone can explain it. I'm 100% sure the answer is simple, its just that I can't see it, bc I'm not used to it. I can only think of making the steps (how- I've yet to ask) if I can 'see' it all 1st inc skirts (which I'm bang in middle of/ both rooms). mo-fo skirting.. I have to listen to gore-grind (like this musical interlude) & summon thors courage to start. As for 45* mitres.. jesus wept. skirting make zoot very angry, highly unstable & insane. The man here is like me contemplating a length of skirtingboard to fit..

Ok I can get a rough idea of 'planting' on, if this means I can actually fabricate this side angle skirting area (bh how on earth else it could be done??). The problem I have, as I see it (& the last sting in the ass of this vomit inducing HATEFUL extra 1 F*****NG FOOT DOWN my wretched builder's built the whole sodding thing) is these 2 damned steps are so huge, even adding two more they're still big, meaning the bigger the steps = the higher the skirting needed. If I kept as is (2x 10" high huge steps), I'd need approx 14" high skirting, or in my case almost four skirtings 'planted upon each' as Id need to rip the profile section off 1st. This simply cannot be feasable: it cannot be even a last option. As usual.. Im utterly bewildered.