zoothorn

Not sure if this is going to help see what the header area actually is under the pB strip.. but maybe gives an idea of what builder's done?

Well yes the door is sheduled to go here.. but do I have solid enough timber in these verticals either side? they don't really fix to anything apart from the old adjacent room pB: they've just been stuffed in as quickest way to create the knock thru as 'finished' afaict. I do have the block lower 1/3rd area: the timber attatched to this.. I hope is better. Even attatching frame to the block.. but above there's only PIR tho. Tbh I cant recall exactly what's in section here. I thought I'd taken more pics than I have. If the vertical timbers look solid as Peter might think, they're not really. But if the frame only needs minimal structure here, & the door pressures all are taken up by the frame's joints top & sides, then it might be ok. But who am i to judge this is the thing.

I'm not sure moving it even 3m would make much difference, if the sound is as bad outside where noise is made.. to imnside where its transmitted. Besides, I don't have the room to tbh: it just has to go up my back passage, & there's only one spot it can go here tbh. I think they lose efficiency the further they go-? But I hadn't thought of this so thatnks for your thoughts tho DJ.

I only seem to have a pic of one side here.. but, its the business side/ door opens from this side. The timber verticals might look ok, & pB helps sure it up.. but all a bit wobbly on gthis end here. Both sides of the 'tunnel' the same: block lower section, crappy timber patch-job plus PIR between for uppermost 2/3rds. Poor header timber under this bit of pB too/ a bit wobbly.

Ok I get most of that thanks for explanation Peter. Its this bit that concerns me still though "hence the need to use a decent frame fixer into something solid".. considering my structurally poor mish-mash opening area, under my neat pB. Thank god I did a pic of each side before I pB'd over. Ok so door to go top step side (in pic 2 nearest to you, opening twds you too). zoot

Its fitting sort of a poor mish-mash of both, plus some zoot construction to patch the poor area up prior to pB'ing over it all. Its the zoot bit I'm terrified about. Im digging out a pic..

@PeterW I don't understand how the force on a frame is tiny. Even the t&g braced doors upstairs I took off to sand were heavy, so each will be pulling on the 2 hinges downwards on the frame, & the frame attached to X.. so X has to have the same force applied to this too (Id think pulling inwards, wouldn't it-?).

@PeterW so even if I have poor build area on which the frame attatches/ very poor timber bits structurally wise.. this is not neccessarily a problem to attatch frame onto, & then hang a door from?

I was thinking make my own door Peter, so I can trim galore, fits in with my other 2 bed doors, maybe lighter too. Can you explain this 'get its strength from the thicker side' bit. Where the door hangs from is my main concern. Does a door hang from the frame, rather than from the thing the frame is attatched to? I mean the rebated bit, in the wickes eg, looks like its designed to take a door load almost by itself (so long as the btm L&R struts are firm).. or if not all, then takes alot of the door load alone. My opening timber (beneath the pB) is not exactly strong looking you see.. worrying me.

78.6 cm.

Right! ok I think Im on board.. thanks for being patient there. Top 79cm. Btm 79.3cm.

Top 79cm. Btm 79.3cm (if i go mm's on saturdays I get my smalls in a twist).

Ok will do. (B b but I can't see how the answer to my Q is dependent on a measurement here: its either a kit, or its not one regardless of my door numnums).

Hi Joe. Can you just tell me. Is the wickes link in Peter's post a few ^ before... ... is this a frame kit?

Ok that's great. But I'm still confused about your link. Can we just clear this up. 1) is this a frame kit? 2) are you adding this wickes link as suggesting this as a good thing for me 3) are you adding it suggesting that it is a frame kit, and therefore not good for me. You see.. it looks for all intents & purposes, like the very frame kit you just said not to buy (great: this is the start I needed) & to make your own. Im further confused by suggesting make my own, IF by the looks of it the wickes link is already made. Maybe its not then-?

Peter, I'm still confused. I understand your 1st 3 sentences. But I don't know if sentence 4, and the link, refers to the 'frame kit' Ive been trying to ask about (& you say don't bother with: so is your link referring to something you are -not- suggesting... or something you -are- suggesting ?). The link looks like a frame kit. Its got 3 sections, rather than constructing the individual parts myself: I presume it might come in a packet: which is exactly what I see in jewsons: which is called a frame kit. But you say I shouldn't bother with a frame kit. Can you see why I'm confused?

Just to recap. I have 1970mm opening H. What is the minimum top part a frame can be? I'm gonna be struggling for H, yet again here.. I must factor this in with any frame chosen. On a side note, my UPVC french doors, frame installed/ glass on etc/ finished.. from sill to frame top (excluding the 100mm frame bit you step over) so the frame part my head almost skims from the sill my feet are on = 1870mm. Can anyone comment on this figure?

Ok will see if anything near available, but I still have to transport it.. adding £30 min. Peter have you any idea what I'm talking about if I say a 'frame kit'?

I think its going to be too costly to even transport it, even if I found one locally tho Peter. Id like a proper thicker solid door like this.. but I have to compromise. I'm also concerned such a door would be too heavy, considering my opening structure a frame will attatch to. I'll get to this with a pic: this is my 2nd Q. I will try understanding the plant stopping later, but 1st: I think you might be referring to making a frame, rather than buying one-? thx zoot.

Aha gotcha. Ok- then this is what I'll do: as the other 2 bed doors are like so, & good'ish diy'd, I can use them to copy.. also they're the same then. But afaik, the door is the 2nd, the frame is made 1st (I can only assume). I'm still back where I was tho, the 1st frame Q. Do you have any idea what I'm talking about by a 'frame kit' I see in jewsons? its not the right term, no, but its a packet with frame parts in.

That's what I was thinking of- another great link thanks Onoff (cant make head nor tail of your 6-word sentence tho). zH

Ok thanks Peter for the idea. But unless Im mistaken, isn't the very basics door frame 1st > door second/ to fit it? Or are you suggesting 1st buying a door, then going onwarfds from there/ maybe making frame to fit it.. I don't know. I bought a 'solid hardwood wood' door from howdens. Got it back & was it solid wood? was it bllx. wood veneered (mixed-sh*te core). couldn't trim what was needed, bowed, & expanded approx 2cm & veneer coming away already, in 3 yrs. total junk. I dont think your suggesting one of these, but anything 'solid wood' now you see & I have zero confidence it actually is.

Hi Onoff. b b but Im still 3 pages behind you. I don't know why you're mentioning squareness/ I cant relate it to anything I said/ no idea what tangent you're on. Of course I understand the principle of something square is better, & a door frame esp so (but how is this relevant to anything you, or I said-?). Anyway trimming the door- Id always envisaged Id have to do this. But surely this is the easy bit. I dont know jams & head pieces & terms yet. -- 1st I need to establish: am I best looking at a "kit" (I dont know the term: I go into jewsons, & I see a long packet, it has 'door frame' on the sticker, it has a series of timber pieces in packet parts of the frame, obviously. I go 'ooh' I'll need one of those) if this is the right word. Is buying this the correct idea?? Or am I best making the parts of such a "kit'" instead entirely from scratch? I assume 2 side bits & a top bit as very pg1 basics. You're still on page 3. Im still looking at the book wondering if its the right one, I haven't even opened it yet. thx zoot.

@Onoff ok thanks for that. But I'm waaay off thinking of the door, aren't I? I mean Ive got to fit the frame 1st which will take me 2 weeks. I dont know if I'm buying a 'frame kit' as I see all bits in a packet.. & just cutting a chunk off the btm ? (looking briiefly at one of these kits I see the top bit interlocks with two upright sides.. so my train of thought was you cut off the btm to make it fit: Ive no idea if this is the right approach). Or bc I don't have a regular H opening, does this mean I'm forced to make all the frame bits myself-? is that what your sketch is about? does my opening W alone mean I can or can't go for a kit-? all these pg1 basics Ive yet to sort out answers to. Your info above is like 3 steps on! (remember it takes me 10x as long as anyone on here, bc its all new to me, every little thing). I do understand the door edge trim/ as I hate the doors on offer "solid wood" bllx etc.. I was thinking of making one: t&g whatnots & two diagonal brace thingies on the back & a straight one across middle & black big hinge doo-da's: actually my cttg doors here upstairs like so, look homemade, not too tricky (I hope) & not bad/ my effort would blend in at least! then I can trim the hell out of the b'stard.

If I have professional installers & surveyors to make these calculations for me & choose the unit accordingly, there's nothing suggesting it is incorrect for the house. The house might be incorrect for it.. now that is feasable, yes. I can't change the house tho. I can keep thing X is wrong ST.. if X is wrong, ok? The pump was wrong. It was changed.. & now its right. This solves half the noise problem only. The compressor noise entering house is also 'wrong' & I'll say it till the cows come home, & this was agreed too by 2 installers & 1 vaillant engineer. So I hope this might get changed too. The system is designed in a certain way. It is not neccessarily working 'wrong'. But if its just made this way, & if its as noisy as to wake me up in the next room, & its designed to go on/off overnight.. then this is most definitely wrong too.