zoothorn

What is 'data' exactly, or an eg?

Hi TBC. Im fairly sure it had a deep reset prior to it given to me, the hubby used to work for IBM/ a proper boffin (I'll defo ask if I cant give it a go beforehand, IE ask on a forum 1st) who I think refreshed it all for me. Still worth doing? I was trying 1st (as I like to do) understand why it could be doing this, then trying a fix idea.

Well there's another you out there then.. diy 365 or something. You'll have to have words.. mind you it could be a page I dipped into from ~2005. Aha ok understood. The roof gap would be immediately under the rad, its whole length, either side of it would be the box roof of course.. was my compromise idea/ saves fiddling about under the rad & saves

I wonder if anyone can shed some light. My ipad air, recently given to me, is behaving really slowly.. youtube docs almost ground to a halt: 10 seconds play, then buffering for 1min/ repeatedly. My laptop behaves fine, with same doco playing for eg, exact same juncture. Full bars of signal on this, going between 2 out of 3, and full 3/3 of signal on ipad. So I'm well & truly stumped. Thanks, zoot schmooter.

Joe, going pretty well/ got my two 168mm H skirt pieces, & 2x1 it fits to, all cut ready to fit tmrw. My 'roof' long thin bit I've got a plan but if you could cast an opinion. Right, it would be alot easier if I roofed LHS up to the rad....... left a roof gap under the rad (so close to rad no roof wont be seen)....... roof it onwards from RHS of it to wall. So no roof under rad. Is this gap any concern re. mice? they dont have access to it, apart from across my room: IE no nasty wall cavity pipe holes they can get into the boxing. Do you think they'll walk across my room & go inside my roof gap under rad? it would be kinda cosy in there with the warm pipes.. but its quite a high 'wall' @ 168mm to climb. (Ref pic is 18 posts back). thx Btw I found another angle of your face on a diy forum! thx zH

I dont think it makes too much difference joe. I was asked by CH installers if any skirting in here to do? yes I said, so in order to -just- fit rad in they presumably left me all they could, 3". I didn't know this wasn't the right answer to give them, so they could have put pipes along floor, meaning my boxing could then have the same skirt, attatched to it, as rest of the room does. Now its gonna stand out, 2" higher, plus a different profile bc I cant get 168mm in my profile.

Hi Joe- you see we only have 3 places, no b&q. Nowhere to ask for a cut (esp mdf- this is a big no-no) & a small town so ltd to 3 build merchants. I got a plan tho, some other 168mm skirt, if one place has it tho, attatched to 2x1 roof batten (upright) screwd into the silly 3" H skirt already put under pipes. This gives me ideal D to put boxing/ skirt onto. But I only have 3/4" of flat skirt side (the lowest flat side bit of the 3" skirt) to attatch my batten onto > to fix skirt to this.. IE might it be a wobbly 7" side? maybe then do my bracket thing, with Peter's no nails/ pink grip stuff along the roof edge to wall to sure up any wobblyness of the tall side. If I use 9mm ply for roof it might not add any weight much so can use brackets ok.

I have mitre bond. Would this be strong enough to attatch a say 9mm not-perfect edge to the skirt tho-? No table saw Peter. Ive just thought of small L shape metal brackets for this joint.. but it'll have to be a 'floating' roof IE I cannot attatch the other side to wall, as I don't know where my studs are behind pB. I can only think how to do this job with 7" skirt.. & it won't be the same profile (plus 2" higher) as the adjacent fitted skirt. So I gotta trawl town for this stuff (& divide into 2x 2.1m/ mitre join back again, to fit it into my car).

@joe90 understand that. But doing it.. for me is not easy tho. I just thought of 7" skirt, which is a jewson product, but mine doesn't have/ special order (so a huge wait/ no can do). The only thing I can think of, is using 6" skirt (so I dont have to make a plinth, which I just cant think how I can cut an accurate 18mm off the end of anything, & really it needs to be some same mdf skirt.. plus the dust to do just this 4m cut).. and as I'm 1/2" short, using a piece of white pipe, cut longways in half (how), attatched somehow to inside top of skirt, to bend up over the pipes hiding them. But this sounds a pretty rubbish idea.

@joe90 that's an idea that sprung to mind yesterday too, raising the skirt up on a plinth. @Onoff Even up to 6" skirt would still be 1/2" short tho. I do have to think about boxing these now. Ive just seen its actually impossible to paint the lower pipe, bc top one hampers access.. so it'll always be a poor paint job. Jeepers I got my work cut out doing this & the frame. Take you guys an afternoon/ me weeks. Ok so if I buy some 6" skirt, its still got to sit on a plinth. The plinth needs to be -exactly- the same D as skirt, in order to then have something the main skirt attatches to. But I cant see how I can make this plinth so accurately. Also how does the top 'roof' bit attatch perp to the plinth-?

@joe90 skirt short by 1".. annoyingly so/ thought of this. the only thing in my favour is two 22mm pipes hug the wall.. so if boxing would only need a shallow box., like your pic.

Im a bit stuck here. ive done my corner pipe boxing, took a whole wknd, but got this pesky pipes gap at btm.. ideally Id box the whole length of pipes in to hide this too, as you would do.. but I just cant face the time it,ll take me, pB plus those wretched placcy cnr strips again/ plaster / sand.. i just cant face it. So what can i do to finish off here? I guess im painting the flippin pipes, but this still the better option for me, even tho it wont look as good. Thx zh

@PeterW my lower room's in quite a pickle.. shoved it all in for now temp etc/ to make worktops later, would it even be wrong to fit worktops before its signed off I wonder? Is this acceptable for the BCO to sign off in this state, Or is it rude? My shelf bit has turned out ideal for cabinets @ 9" d. I also wonder if he,ll pick up on some rendering patchwork needs doing just above it, a bit of damp actually here comes and goes.. its the outside ground level this shelf line you see, shouldn,t be this low of course so would be hidden over, if only......

That's interesting- I'll call mine & see. Do you think this is maybe a personal decision by each BCO tho? mine mentioned 'you need to get balc done soon' inspecting midway thru once doors just in. I said keys in a drawer downstairs, so not poss to open. He then tried the handle.. & it opened. oops. I guess a balc tho, esp mine being quite a bit more than just a small addition, needs its handrails/ height/ structure all signed off too tho: how would you get around this? would he come back & sign this bit off later?

bugger. 390mm. Well on plans its shown within the room as it were, skimming the carpet, 1900mm H. But I do admit I forgot to include a side view plan (gives builder a loophole, but even so shown on face-on view to skim carpet & @ 1.9m, so couldn't be up on either step). So this will differ to plan. Not my fault/ no choice but put it where its going instead. I hadn't considered whether this might c*ck up BC. Will he even notice should I ply him with whisky & nob hobbery?

Great. can you sign it off for me Peter?

Ah just remembered. My one bad decision of the build: adding the balcony, yet to even consider (might leave to pro.. but then again, if I made my cabin base.. hmm/ next year anyway now). my other faux pas was having doors opening out: if I chose inwards, I could now put a juliet balc on > get signed off, & save £2k. Bit off more than I can chew. Oh well balc gotta be done, b4 sign off, will look fab once its made tho. Is there any timeframe it has to be signed off? I hope to goodness it ain't 1 year..

Not now, during my fretting during build I mean (11 months ago, jeepers). I cannot fault the support, my goodness on the contrary/ I'm not criticising this/ how could I (but that wasn't support when I was raving about me builder.. it was hollerin at me already!! :-) Anyway I hope to rid this infernal problem once this door done. Final job too! thx zH

@PeterW do you think I can ask for it to be signed off now? even if top room skirt & door not quite done, & Ive chucked all me tools in lower room using in a temporary way: this room's done. Does it have to be all spik & span for BC for final sign off day, tie on, an earl grey & hob nob job?

@joe90 I get your drawing- cheers alot. I guess 1st one is perp. Yes I know about the ulcer.. but you see its kinda a bit 'told y'all so' that I just needed to get off me chest tbh, what with yous all hollerin at me!! (I doubt you were joe.. you seem too calm for that). Ok line under this, if of course I can get a frame in as it is. Yes I'm up for making a door. Great this is what I was hoping to hear "it's essentially self-supporting so what's behind irrelevant"! terrific. No I not yet signed off PeterW. All elec bumf sent to BC tho. I'm not sure when it could or can be signed off. I dont know if my rads put in before both rooms finished c*ck this signing-off up (had no choice/ they said 'next week install it is'). Or whether my steps, or door position like you allude to c*cks it up either. I just had to crack on.

This is what I was trying to explain. Ok this piece where I want hinges to go, is attatched only to two horizontal bits of stud, & to both pB's at the corner (I whacked a load of pB screws into it from the old pB side, as well as a good few into it from my 'tunnel pB' side.. to sure this timber vertical piece up best I could knowing I maybe putting a door in). Also its held in by soudal foam to the PIR.. but that n/a I'm sure. I can't think that even if both pB's removed/ the timber piece exposed, it could be replaced with anything.. unless a new vertical is fixed instead here attatched to the floor -and also- to some point high above (but I think only slate felt/ slates directly above here: its within the old wall area you see, so no ceiling/ loft xyx structure). I'm pretty sure Ive been left high & dry by builder here.. prolly just for me to put 'door on low step open into room' , even tho he knew it can't, bc of the ceiling intrusion/ shape, due to the whole damn thing being 1ft lower than it should be.. specifically & crucially my primary concern being the old ceiling H relative to new ceiling H: the entrance-in area specifically. This is what I was stressing so correctly (I think) about -whilst- it was built, but I was fobbed off & dismissed not only by the builder, but also the good folks on here siding with him hollering at me its "as it should be/ as it could only be made!!". Now maybe they can see my point to demanding it -had- to be made to the plan (I was blackmailed during build & I said 'right stop please/ I need answers why' & builder refused to explain, got angry threatening to pull everyone off/ walk off, nastily: I'll always resent this). Ive never been in sush a stressed state in my life/ appalling. And so then I ask on here for support. And everyone hollers at me & sides with him. I was in a depression for remainder of build, worried what the repercussions would be: turns out many & they were just, & I'll say it till cows come home: just as I thought: this knock-thru area/ door being the biggest problem its left me). If the build had the collars I was promised, on the plan he told me to make, & saw & agreed to (saying a v.good plan/ nothing suggesting it would be different, let alone a full 1ft difference in floor & ceiling positions, both rooms) so as to push this top ceiling up 1 ft.. I would be putting the door where it should be: fixed to solid corners opening into the new room. The ceiling trusses did not have the collars. Well, specifically no collars on --both-- sides: as it is its been compromised by having a collar on only --one-- side, meaning the ceiling isn't pushed up enough. As soon as I saw the collars I sprinted out measuring xyz abc.. scratching my head thinking its 1ft lower, it defo is.. "it'll be fine" he says.. "builder knows best, you don't, its correct!!" I'm told on here.

Hi Joe- if you mean the vertical bit attatched to the brick, 2ft away from hinge line? 2x1? (this is the pic with the joists exposed). The best idea of what's going on on this hinge side, is both pics looking at this angle, one with joists exposed.. & the later one where Ive packed in PIR bits between the timber. Apologies its far from ideal to establish what's been done. There's an empty box/ void going on immediately behind the side PIR sheet.. well a well insulated box/ void, the btm of which is a block shelf top as it were.