zoothorn

@Onoff sorry just re-read my daft Q re. my opening 1975mm & 1981 door! all these newfangled mm's.. I get in a pickle. What I meant to say was, no I don't think I have enough room for a std H door (another factor of the extra depth 1ft fiasco, my ceiling's 1ft lower/ not where it should be & on my plan was a clear 1900 opening: not done then only today I realise: no reason given as I said etc).

@Onoff door has to open 'back', so it'll pass over the existing adjacent room carpet.

Sorry Ive no idea what this is- I haven't been given this info I don't think.

Hi ST. Well I don't think so, I was first pencilled in for a 5kw, then they went 7.5kw just to be safe (good job.. cos Id built an extention in the time between surveyor visit & installation!! this added only 2 extra rads tho, one smallish, so I think almost a 'perfect fit' now for a 7.5kW @ 8x double rads, 2 small/ 4 medium/ just 2 big silly f-o ones).

I'm firstly trying to figure out your post TBC.

@Onoff would it seem like the builder was aiming for a std 2'6 width, then whatever H happened. Will 1970 mean I'm ok for a 1981 door? With my upvc french doors, if I only have 1875mm from door 'sill' step to door frame top (having to step over a 10cm frame bit too, not included).. then I'd hope I'm not gonna be as constrained heightwise as these double-doors. Why he gave me such low doors I'll never know- least cost to him?

Useful page that- thanks/ bookmarked. I think the answer is "I doubt it would ever have been a std size, considering the H issues of the build due to the never-ending struggle for H everywhere". So all I can do is measure my opening: 1970 x 790mm.

It was the only choice ProDave. Its either I agree to this system, or stick with a rotting old immersion tank on its last legs, as inefficient as likely it was, with mice galore. I didn't know about its limiting factors with regard to a house not ideal to the system (if this is the case- I get your point it could be), nor was I informed about any limiting factors. I was just told it would be great/ the survey chap said. There's no way I could have grappled with any explanation of this night-mode, at this juncture, anyway: but it definitely wasn't explained. I did consider the only limiting factor, here, being my downstairs 80's addition being so cold I doubted even a flat-out-hot rad would make it warm: my bathroom & kitchen remain cold but I knew this/ I anticipated this. I use my trusted £5 charity shop fan heater taking it between these two rooms. Whether or not its not ideally insulated, it still would have to be on all night/ rads dipping in/ out, the thing firing up, the rads on. Maybe not as regularly as mine might do, but still in this 'standby+ ' mode. Two-thirds of the house isn't an old stone cottage anyway, 1/3rd a new extention, 1/3rd an 80's extention, only 1/3rd (just one big room) is old stone cottage. When the system fires up too, is entirely dependent on where the thermostat is placed, not the nature of the original section of the house: so if it was in the new extention.. it would sense least times to go on. Which as I type is an idea to relocate it.. but inconvenient as its on the controller (a separate 6x3" box on wall) its dial I need to access 6x a day. Actually it can get the rads & HW up to a decent temp, maybe not super-hot, but hot. I don't like super-hot anyway like a trv binary type of situation 'ouch hot' then 'stone cold' on/off.

Back to last extention jobs. The door. Presumably its get the frame in, &/ buy & shape, or make a door to fit. If so as its opening 'outwards' (back into adjacent bedroom due to curved-down ceiling area within the knock-thru 'tunnel').. I presume I can fit the door in time, IE do all final bits to room like skirt up to frame > paint > carpet. Then I can take my time on the door over winter. Is this the right idea?

@Onoff yes its defo a good suggestion- these '3 sides of the box' of the cupboard can be attacked with stuff like this, maybe either/ or soundbloc pB lined (I have 4 sheets spare). Its the backside 'void' where half at lest of sound is happening. You can see the void in pic1 (pg1) where pipes dive behind into the pB. Anyway living with it now the pump has been changed, assuming now its as it should have been all along, is better.. but most of house noise remains. One thing about this ASHP I can only see as a big design flaw (apart from noise) is this. In order it works as it likes to & designed to, the setback temp needs to be ~18* or so. This is fine during the day, good even, making (most of the time) an even mild-warm house.. like having an aga in a corner of house, & In this way, the system's primed to heat rads up to speed in ~1hr~ (I assume a default CH designer's aimed figure to get rads up to speed) when I come in at 6pm & dial up rotary knob to 21*. But it has to continue the same overnight. IE in order to get rads up to speed by say 7.30am, you have 2 choices. One is the way its designed, the other not so. The way it likes & designed, is like the day setback temp @ 18*, it needs also to be set to overnight. This means rads on overnight, mild-warm-beds/ in fact the whole house rads on (wasteful) dipping on & off. How this can be deemed 'eco-friendly' is beyond me. I also do not like a rad on at night (I certainly don't like the compressor waking me up) but I'm forced to IF if want my rads up to speed in ~1hr~ by 7.30 am. The other way, it doesn't like, is to put in a setback temp low enough overnight it doesnt engage the rads. 10* in my case (chiefly due to its noise overnight). But rads only get up to speed in ~2hrs~ because its "cold". So I have to choose: no warm house until 9.30am & sleep with no noise interruption -plus- wasteful night rads on, by setting overnight temp to 10* starting rads 7.30am to coincide with alarm call. Or start rads 5.30am in this setting > get rads up to speed in ~2hrs~ for 7.30am. So I have to get up at 5.30 due to noise. To a cold house. So you can see its designed to be kept on overnight ((there is no "3rd" setting you can put in an 'overnight' setback temp different to the daytime one)) to have a timed morning rads-ON period from a normal say 6.30am > 7.30 rads up to speed. It doesn't like having the rads not ready constantly 24/7 by being set down to a low setting overnight/ it doesn't work properly like this.

Great idea & not dear too. Where were you thinking these go.. on the 'front' side of cupboard? Its the way the room's made is some of the problem, the 5" void behind the pB the boiler's fixed to, & inner brick course: getting access to shove any soundproofy xyz in is not possible. The copper pipes coming out below boiler, actually go behind, thru pB & into the void gap (to be neatly away etc), then coming back into the room 1m on > into the cylinder.. so noise is being fed directly into the void, & then fed directly into the room. Also the LHS of cupboard houses the pressure 2x white flexi pipes which enter from outside wall. This cupboard is just above your head in the stairwell, itself in the corner of main downstairs room: so you're never far from this noise source (these pipes' original emitting source, being the compressor outside).

Very good & useful info ProDave- appreciated. I took my laptop up & read/ condensed your points & put them to him.. he was impressed & also a bit put out but hey, said he was doing some of that now (I think the pump business inside). He checked your pipe suggestion, said coil been put in as should be. So he decided to change the pump, like for like tho (mfr france), and on leaving said he thinks its 'significantly quieter'. But then added 'but I do have severe tinnitus' so doesn't know ?!! I said well now I can complain further, that they sent the very chap I didn't want (thkfully he laughed). I think (tho I'm on tenterhooks waiting) maybe I can detect a huge difference tho: at the mo its in one of its two 'one-hour' HW chunks (whatever it does; make it, charge it, top it up I've no idea). 12-1pm.. 5-6pm. These set by one of the engineers, to suit my minimal HW useage. And I can only hear the compressor noise! which could be a major result = 1/2 my noise prob solved. If so, I can now (tentatively- I dare not even look at it right now) start to consider sound 'containing' the 3m or so area the compressor noise is heard: by pB'ing the spare room cupboard the boiler is in. But, there's a huge gap behind the pB, where the boiler is hanging from, & inner brick course (& some stone), 5" void all around upstairs floor, which is definitely part of the problem.. IE the pipe reverberation is excacerbated & travels all round whole area > hence heard at all parts of house. A nr impossible soundproof here, unless some stuff pumped in to fill the void: but it's like 3cubicM of area needed to fill. I can at least do the 'front' myself with my 4x excess soundbloc 12.5mm pB sheets. Quite a trial. If only the damn compressor could be changed & same results tho. Chap said 'cant do anything about that' as he left of course.

@ProDave the pdf you put up is exactly the basis for my ire. I went through this -the most detailed info available to a customer (dense enough to think it's all if not more than enough info to have to hand to make a decision Y or N to choosing it) thoughrally before agreeing installation. I even did a thread on here, as backup, in case of missing anything obvious. I couldn't have prepped better (as a regular customer that is, not as a technically-proficient customer say as you or PeterW might well be: I couldn't be expected to). Sound figs, diagram, and all the inviting "quiet" words are -soley- ascociated with the outside unit. If I can hear this prominently 20m away, in middle of road outside, & on the other side of the house too.. this alone doesn't tally & something's amiss (with their info that is, not the unit; its working as it should I'm told "they all do that": again nothing relative to an agreeable purring fan noise, but just the noisy compressor tagged on the side of this unit). Nothing on there whatsoever re. noise ascociated with the inside unit (boiler's pump, the 1 & only noise creator within the house) , nor, the noise being transmitted into the house from the outside unit (compressor, the 1 & only noise creator outside the house) via the 2x flexi HP pipes. Engineer here this AM, but another poor night sleep tossing & turning expecting the pump in adjacent room might go on/off/on like a milk float at 4am incessantly for an hour. Affecting my day to day living this is- its just incompatible to have in the house at all afaict.

Its very very infrequently during my 2 hrs AM, & 3 hrs PM I manually dial the desired temp from 18* (daytime I like it at/ & its mostly idle thanfully) up to 21* to get the rads on properly, that the heat compressor + pump in the inside boiler aren't both on hammer & tongs. Thermostat is in the mini controller, sited in the spare room (which is the warmest in the house too). I think this is relevant. thx zH

@PeterW you seem to know alot about these. Would you know how (basically speaking) how I can best to use it max econo: I was thinking can I turn say 1/2 of my rads off at least, would it still be happy do you know? Just me here.. I'm now concerned about electric costs if I hear the flippin thing(s) working away so much. And 8x rads 2 very sizeable too.

Haha. No, a Vaillant engineer replacing it tmrw. I'm hoping he'll bring a Wilo or whatever the goodun I read on here was, but I'm certain a like for like, & that it won't make a blind bit of difference. Only immediate concern is he's coming from York. To Wales. Erm.. how's that happenin then/ current situation etc?! I mean from York > west coast wales, to change a pump, that'll be exactly the same. Bonkers. But credit to them at the least for this.

@ToughButterCup and @joe90 great help thanks. Did the buffer to stop the ladder shifting/ borrowing a ladder, thethered it to other.. & seemed a fine way to get up onto my roof ladder: which seemed perfectly safe even in its 2-sections tbh/ no cause for any concern. 15 mins to do. no slates dmgd. A job well done- no more telly stuff in & on my house! well worth the 10:1 prep time to job time. Its called the zoot ratio. thanks zH

I have my sections lashed together now, one step shorter, the lash making a useful soft cushion on tiles too. So my roof ladder is sorted. Can someone just help me with how best to get up to it, bearing in mind the fragile tiles nearest the gutter. It is far better / safer i ask, rather than jump in and attempt however 'obvious' it might seem. Its the transition between the tricky bit id assume. And can someone just help, is it correct to have removed the gutter, or is it better to have it in place to perhaps rest another ladder against.. protecting the tiles even if damaging the gutter (surely the better option). thx

Errrrm.. by using the steps in the pic. Did i do what??

I have my roof ladder Onoff, I know how to put in place on a roof.. you can see this. Im just asking how to get up to it, for this particular job. Nothing more than that. Im not asking what is the best tool i can possibly buy for the job, nor what is the best method to get the job done (the answer being get a builder to do it). Ive bought hook extentions, if they exist then theres a way of using them attatched to a std ladder. It may not be the optimum roof ladder in the world, but it is, now, a roof ladder.. and surely adequate for the small job to do. If anyone can help. Thx zoot.

joe look ive got my ladder here, will be roping Sections together in a bit, and borrow i hope another ladder to get me up to the other. But i have the last tiles to consider putting pressure upon, and how best to get from one ladder to the other. Obviously not via my steps, these just to undo gutter, if that is the right idea.. i dont even know this. thx zoot.

Well, for a start a token gesture tmrw of replacing the pump. But assuming the same model, me & snr engineer agreed it likely would make no difference. They agreed to do it though, bc they (both, 2 visits) concurred it is making a whining noise ontop of its motor noise, & "yes I see your point, its maybe worth changing to see, & we address the compressor issue after". I can't fault the service. But I'm already talking to my lovely installers (Im lucky all the folks have been nice, understand my pov entirely) about exploring avenue of re-siting the wretched boiler (pic1) outside: I tentatively put this as the only possible I could envisage (anyone) living with it making the noise it does. But this means cylinder has to be close by = a huge headache in terms of space/ re configging a UT room totally to fit this in (& likely not having room for a WM & UT basin as a result) logistics of the work, & the building of an outside 'tagged-on' enclosure to house the damn boiler. Nightmare.

Well yes I realise each section is too short, but as long as they can be tied together, yes ideally clamped or bolted even, is there any reason then it can't be used sensibly as a roof ladder-?

@Russell griffiths damn good place to start/ good suggestion this. If I could get one more a permanent grade than perhaps this.. Im sorted. The curtain idea tho, if feasable, would mean no zips to fail & less faff to go in/ out.

Haha. yes indeed it does. Dexter's was -very- temporary tho, which this one looks too. I was after something more permanent, the zips will surely fail after a while if designed for 1 or 2 jobs max/ bin.