zoothorn

Hi J. Yup sorry my mind said this second bit of info had to be a typo. Got it now.

Haha. Thanks for the sketch Peter.. Onoff skills there/ really helps this eejet. NOW Im on board, now I understand flue figures refer to the - internal- flue width. I was only ever thinking outer width! Great. Im also thinking once I get this in, could I maybe decamp into cabin for 6 months & give my house ( mostly) to ukrainians..? A long way west tho. But a whole family could have it. Me scrimp for 6 months.. nothing to endure compared to their plight. Fab thanks. Zoot.

Hi Peter. I understand twin stuff, to mate with the 4" single, will be bigger. This is all I understand. But what size am I looking for to mate with it? IE am I searching for " 4 inch twin wall " or " 6-1/2 inch twin wall " ? ( but if 6" stuff on facebook is too big as you say, then I can't be looking for 6", or, 6-1/2" stuff because it's even bigger than 6").. .. which surely leaves only one option: " 5 inch twin wall " ? Typically confused zoot.

Still not totally clear Peter sorry. Ok would the twin 6" stuff you kindly linked to, be correct for a 4" stove hole? I had the firm impression twin stuff would inherrantly be wider than single. By how much I do not know tho. So my thinking was if I have a 4" stove hole.. then I'd need either a 5",6",7" (I don't exactly know which apart from it surely needing to be bigger than 4"). Is this not correct then?

Hi Peter, Ive only just now seen your post ( done identical time to my last one you see/ missed it). Ok yes I did see the link thanks, but it appears to be 6". My stove needs a 4" flue inserted into it & I dont think any other diameter flue is suitable to go into here.. is it? Then from this 4" flue, further on, then it can be expanded to twin stuff but which surely would be the "next one up".. therefore being 5" diameter?

Yup sorry I forgot this. Your hetas info says twin needs to start 400mm before ceiling. So below that to stove.. has to be single flue. I do not know how you could fix a twin flue to a stove top as you cannot see what your doing, so you cannot make sure the seal is good. If it needs an adaptor, so you fix this into the twin bottom,then this whole section can then be fixed to the stove top. But if I do this, as I cannot cut flue to ideal length, I will have a an extra 500mm of flue extending above roof. Thst means 1m total from felt. That means extra expense on brackets to make it sturdy, plus a silly-high chimney.

Hi Peter, it's a tiddly 4" hole. And stove top to ceiling is 1450mm. I realise I need twin stuff actually through the roof. And I know 400mm the twin needs to start -before- the ceiling. So it has to be single flue up 1m from stove, twin up from there 1m. Roof approx midway along the twin. Exterior flue will therefore rise about 550mm above roof. This leaves only 300mm of cabin wall to consider, being 'exposed' behind the single flue, as my tall'ish stove heat panels extend up above top of stove by 300mm. Thanks, zoot.

Chaps, The twin flue idea is working out extremely expensive especially so if i exit the back via two 45* as I also need then a front plate sweeping hole ( i think): all of which pushing the cost upto 3/4 of the stove itself. Need to reevaluate. Ive seen only thin flues coming from these tiny stoves in eg's so, I will have to assume this is feasable.. & go this way. And straight up. So the only work really involves the roof hole & how to isolate the hot pipe from the roof. Thanks, Zoot.

Hi Peter, aha didn't know this. But if I go 45* out behind stove thru wall then another 45* outside, & up, flue attatching to the backside roof overhang ( only place I could attach it).... would I need twin at all? I thought the idea of twin stuff, is to isolate heat from adjacent interior walls. Surely if vast majority of single flue outside, the heat will dissipate & the nearest outer wall ( overhang about 10") wouldn't be in any danger of getting hot at all really. Just considering most cost effective way to do the flue you see. Thanks, zh

T Hi ProDave. Im not needing to do this stove install to BRegs. Its more like your caravan job. Noone is going to come here, see it, or are aware this is being built. All I need do is make sure it is safe enough, inside/ where I am following your BRegs info. The 1m above the ridge... no way. This would create a big silver eyesore giving n'bors cause to complain ( & means 1m extra cost too)& then a BRegs person might be here. As long as there's no safety issue not having this excessive 1m above ridge chimney protrusion, then Im going much less height. The chimney from stove to hat will be 2m'. I just need the cowell/ tippy top approx in line with the roof ridge. Approx 3 ft above eaves. It is then almost all hidden from n'bors pov. Ive pushed the boundary-bar building the cabin you see, I can't tempt fate by having a huge silver protruding chimney, ontop of the smoke that will innevitably occasionally drift their way. Thanks. Zoot.

Great help ProDave. Im toying with this idea now ( due to chimney being both 1.5ft back, away from my birch tree next cabin this side, & also bit further away from abusive n'bors who'll likely protest this stove). Idea being thus: exit the flue 45* thru back cabin wall > out, another 45* & up. Got a 6" roof overhang at the back to navigate around the only fly in my zootsoup. I think actually you mentioned this alternative idea. Im wondering if this exit might be simpler than working ontop of roof, cutting hole in it etc, flashing xyz & final felting. Might I be able to go all single flue like so too.. saving a heap maybe. It surely would be an easier a battle against rain/ water ingress, this back wall both covered by my 6" roof overhang, & also away from rain: this farside outer wall rarely gets hit by rain. Thanks. Zoot.

Thanks for the pic ProDave. Ok this is now a bit costly & complicated I think with adaptors.. & the twin stuff bigger than I thought too. Im going to have to go single from the stove up 1m. Then Im 400mm shy of ceiling. So twin from there up thru roof. If walls get too hot at this 600mm gap above my heat boards, then I fit more board. Or, I paint the walls with the heatproof muuri paint. The flue edge will be a good 8" away from walls. I think/ hope this might be sufficient. We'll see. So I'll order 1m of each & join them, plus a simple cowell. Do I cut a roof hole so the flue sits tightly through.. or am I leaving a gap for some other flue bits here? Thanks for the help, zh.

Hi ProDave. Fixed my painted heat barrier boards up. So onto flue: Yup I understand I need twin through the roof. And the hetas info says 400mm needed below, before the roof. Which leaves exactly 1000mm from that point, down to the stove top. My heat barriers go up 300mm above the stove top too. Twin all the way? Hmm.. I wonder how twin can actually fit onto the stove with a really good seal without being able to see the joint I mean ( as the extra outer flue wall will cover what Im doing). Critical to get a good seal here: Id be happier single flue 1m, then twin. If the cabin walls are getting too hot above the barrier, I can always paint the 600mm area of non- barrier walls with muuri heat paint, or, if still concerning I just add extra heat board. Thanks, zh

Dave, that's spot on.. good so my idea did have legs. this tube glue stuff actually works, my mind says won't it's silicone. Good so onto my flue. Whilst your here.. the size is only 4" diameter. And only 1400 to ceiling. You still think twin from stove thru ceiling necessary? Thx zh

Hmm.. ive made all my 26 copper pipe standoffs & painted the board now cut in two. The " im really nails" gun adhesive stuff or wtf its called Maybe.

Not following sorry.. the prob i have is I can't access the back to put the standoffs in. So they need to be firmly fixed to the board, presumably with screws in them too ready/ which means filling them with something non flammable, then attatching all 13, without knocking one off, to then carefully screw each in. Unless Im not thinking right.

Hi there Tennents.. hmm but bluetack might be flammable? Gives me more room to think tho 🤔 I need a heatproof'ish summink to shove in my 20mm copper standoffs to jam the screw in.. i think.

Actually I would advocate a handsaw.. less dust surely & only 5 mins/ done. And my copper pipe stand-offs done. 20mm, most of an inch gap behind then. Forgive my idiocy.. but how can I get the board screwed to wall with the standoffs between? Surely I need to drill my 13 board holes & then glue my standoffs over the holes on the back or something.. then flip over/ offer up/ screw in -? Thanks, zh

Hi there s.a.s.. don't think Ive had a reply from you before/ appreciated. So just goldscrews for eg, I mean nothing specific needed? Thanks, zoot.

Hi chaps. A snail's pace job apologies! Got my Hardiebacker 1200 x 800 board, & the Muuri paint stuff. Plan to jigsaw the board in half.. snapping will just be 😭 . I'm yet to pillage some old copper pipe to chop up into 1" offcuts to act as standoffs to my cabin walls. This board.. it seems to be a cement + fiberboard composite but have no idea how it will cope with screws. And what type to use. Any suggestions? Thanks, zoot.

Bought! I trust all stuff with scandi names. Useful link Peter thx.

Got one coming in to my TP for me next week. Great suggestion £10 too @ TP. Could I use as is & paint, IE without tiling do youthink? I guess that wasn't your thinking tho..? Thanks, Zoot

Hi Peter, this looks good ? thanks for the suggestion. Well nothing nearby, but delivery an option £5.. is this stuff viable to get sent? Or is it like thick plasterboard/ prolly arrive broken if so.

Well it's just all the searching about really.. aquapanel is a no go then. What thickness metal sheet would you say? I need 2x 600mm x 700mm behind stove.

Sounds like a very cheap option. Not too sure Id feel comfy in an armchair in there next to corrugated sheet tho. Im wondering if I bought 12 similar size tiles as some i have here, ( 8mm thick terracotta 9" sq) say black.. alternate them, onto a pair of stood off boards. Squeeze down onto some tile adhesive, then only a minimal ammount of grout/ use my remaining ~5 kg grey stuff. What board would I need for this Onoff? joe90's plan really back a page or so. Thanks Zoot.