zoothorn

Last bits done/ job fully complete. I'll add an update once fired up, maybe september or so.. but hugely grateful to all for the help ( & patience with my Q's!). Zoothorn.

I do, but wasting 3/4 of a board, @ £15.. So I'm going to try the Muuri painted tiles 1st. Monitor. I think Im far enough from flue at 8", top area. If they get super hot.. I can remove & redo. Looking forward to firing her up! Hoping for a silly cold snap. Thanks, zoot.

Paint 10" sq (8mm D) ceramic tiles 2x in Muuri paint... then gun adhesive/ stick to walls here? Pic again. Also could do same around stove, to broaden the fireboard width by 10". Pic again..

I am certainly taking great advice.. no doubt there: followed Peter's steps to a T & I was on a sure footing. Thanks. Good that's sorted then. Wait for plate/ flue done. Checked in rain last ev & all's well. Really pleased too. ---- Very last Q if I can chaps. As you can see on page before, I was an eejet measuring & fell short with my fireboard. So top of enamel flue is unprotected by 9" H. Now thankfully the black flue is a good 8" away from both side cabin walls here. Would I be ok to just paint the walls say 3x in Muuri paint? Or should I wait & add 10" H more cement board? When an offcut comes along.. Annoying. Thanks, zoot.

Good idea.. will do a test. Sand eh? Interesting. Am I stuffing it right up to fill the whole rubber johnny? Or just a band around the ceiling section removed. Thanks. Zh

Hmm.. seems good to go then, but no rush if waiting on my plate thing. So will see if Peter &/or ProDave concur maybe 1st. Thanks Onoff, zoot.

Anyone know if this particular loft roll is ok to go in my ceiling gap? Say it's non-combustible.. https://insulation4less.co.uk/products/knauf-combi-cut zh

Hi SAS. That sounds like the one Ive gone for.. as long as there's a bit of give.. should be ok. Cheers, zoot.

Hi Onoff. No unfortunately I don't have or I'd use it to heighten the boards' area up to the black flue top bit. I measured wrongly in fact for the 4 sections of board I cut & used from 1 sheet, hence the odd sized bits & not high enough. Mistake. Ive gone for my ebay one. I just mocked up two 158mm W halves in cardboard, as the seller shows its W to be. & with a bit of bending- should do. Just need to find some rockwool bits. I do have some knauff insulation roll, the beige stuff ( in a white/ blue big roll). Would this be similarly fire resistant? Thanks, zoot

@ProDave I wonder whether I could fettle this to play ball.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293358505044?hash=item444d878c54:g:9k0AAOSwfVpYq-vP

Aha great thanks, understood. I forgot rockwool was non flammable. I do have my 1" of ecotherm board sandwiched between my roof layers. A bit late in the day, but this is no issue.. is it? Grateful, zoot

Hi ProDave, useful link thanks. Did see these things. Thing is as it's on a slope, this won't fit too well I'd have thought? Its that pesky oval shape etc. What about something in the 1" gap around twinwall, actually in the ceiling? Thanks, zoot

I've got a few things to address before firing up. 1. is sealing around fireboard gaps/ joins, got some NN'sense fire tube stuff. 2. Im a bit short on the fireboard, so need something to add top of enamel flue -ideally an offcut cement board bit, if I can find. 3. I have wedges in my ceiling oval at the mo, I was going to add L shape brackets, under the johnny, 3 to secure flue solidly but was in a rush. So maybe add say two inside @ pic 2? 4. some plate thing to cover over the ceiling oval cutout, not so easy being an oval shape. 5. Lastly: something actually in the ceiling gap.. Ive seen some folks stuff rockwool here. Need to find offcut/ can do this job & 4 in time. No rush, warm weather on it's way. Thanks, zh

Job.. done! Woohoo! Started raining of course soon as I cut me hole.. & (new) gun whatnot broke when I went to stick my johnny down. But rain stopped, dried up.. & fab results. This, I think, is the most satisfying build job so far. 4 hours flat out 'blitzed' it. It warrants a zoot musical interlude, before pics tomorrow. Thanks so much. Zooter.

Good tip that. Will do. Finally looking fwd to the job now.. dreading it just 2 days ago. So important all this prep you see, for me. Thx zoot.

Appreciated. Super silly prep i know.. but important job to have every facet ready, job understood & a plan in place. I think Im set. Just a good weather window & can crack on. My stove guy replied at last, said tho my 'spiggot' male end seems long, using plenty of cement smeared around it should be fine w'out cutting a bit off. Good. All weather silicone to buy, use my screws ^ then galv spray the heads (? my idea) then a layer of this sealant ontop of them too. Putting some also on the jonny-flue join too. Thanks- Zoot Doing a mock

Peter forgive me a newbie's question.. are these screws suitable, to fix the outer alu flange of the johnny down thru felt/ into my osb roof? Or do I need something 'special' ? https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-flange-head-flange-self-tapping-screws-8ga-x-100-pack/6553h Thanks, zoot.

Hi Onoff no Im far from attempting this flue job yet.. as I still cannot understand the correct joining of these 4 pieces. Thanks for link though/ will get in due course. Zoot.

Ok thanks ProDave. I think you & Peter are aggreeing I need to anglegrind 20mm off. In a way Id prefer not to, & have the weight resting on the more solid weld band... but... sealing the difference between (which seems the critical thing surely) -seems to me- compromised this way. If it was china junk you see Id not be happy the lot sitting on the rim ( as after a while the heat might form a split in the stove collar-?), though the seal better this way. But as it seems well made I guess its ok plonking all 4 bits' weight onto the rim then. Ok. But sealing the other end 1m above is my Q no.2. Here is the gap (pic 1) no metal bracket can clamp these two, & any gubbins put on the silver adaptor before inserting, cannot be checked or seen (so how can I ever be sure this seal is good?). There is -thankfully- 1mm of extra metal (pic 2) around @ the join, meaning my gap narrows to 3mm (1.5mm all around). So I'm happier about this gap compared to the lower end into stove. Pic 3 shows it simply sitting on the flue. It rocks dry like so, it is far from tight. Any tiny rocking here (at this junction) which if 600mm of the flue is above the roof outside is surely inevitable in wind.. means any seal gubbins Ive put on the silver adaptor, being unseen once the black pipe covers it, cannot ever be verified as still being good. Is my concern about this upper junction understood? Is my point clear? Ok I've a plan for this

Or maybe this helps clarify my Q no.1. ((Which is correct?)) Thanks, zoot.

Hi Peter, what are these rubber seals you refer to here? I'm still not clear on my question no.1 above too. I asked if the pipe should sit upon the weld ring, & you replied "yes correct". But just before you suggested cutting 20mm off the pipe. --- Trouble is Im not sure if what I'm trying to describe, is comprehensible/ understood (often the way with text replies on forums: simply the point lost in translation). My photo with tape marks -should- show what I mean. But in case not understood (I cant think of another way to explain how the pipe sits on a weld band, in the stove, creating this gap in my marks) a sketch:

So the load is bearing down on the weld, on the stove top. I don't know if this is correct, or, if the load should bear down on the rim of the stove collar TOP instead (the only way this could be achieved, is by cutting off 1/2"+ from the bottom of the pipe. THEN the two marks would be together, a good seal even as it is would be made ( so with adding cement.. surely an even better seal made).. and the load would be bearing down upon the collar rim. The load itself is irrelevant/ there is nothing particularly heavy involved, but where it resides upon, determines (* I would think ) possibly whether a good seal, or a bad seal is formed at this important juncture. * I am only speculating, to be sure, because it is critical a good & correctly made join, is formed: so I may be incorrect & the pics show what is expected/ what is correct/ to proceed as it is. I just do not know. Thsnks, Zoot.

Ok, so my upper mark is where the 'male end dip' starts. There's a good 1/2" gap, to the other mark. So the pipe must sit on something inside the stove (orthe two marks would be right next to each other). The thing that prevents the pipe slipping down further, is a thick ring of weld, on the stove, within the stove collar. Pics two & three show how much lateral " give " the pipe has if I rock it max one way, then the other. It doesn't sit nicely flat n flush if I centre it, because the weld band it sits on, is fairly 'rustic' uneven. Zh