zoothorn

So are you suggesting I remove all the PIR job Ive just done in order to put these midway timbers in, & redoing all the PIR (at a cost of £700-£800) seriously? I'm just asking help on my PIR job (& if a vcl is needed, I'd call this the finishing layer.. if its needed). I'm not needing to know how you might have done the build differently, or how you might think it better by redoing/ structural alterations: this is not helpful because I just cannot cope with a whole new avenue of information forming. This build has been a massive trial & effort for me to understand the huge no. of stages & info: I need to simplify or I just cannot cope. I'm on a roll here, I just need help to proceed if you could lend some help. The timberwork is done by my builder. I just need help on my PIR job, for now, just this. Thanks alot- zoot.

Hi Declan. I'm not doing any structural alterations or additions, I'm not in any way qualified to do so, nor is it needed. The build has been done/ paid for. The thread is simply my doing interior stuff (not altering anything my builder has done). Ive done the PIR, I just need to try & establish how to proceed.. at the moment I'm stuck/ stalled as I cannot understand the vcl situation IE the finishing bit to the PIR (or not/ is it needed-??)

Hi Nod, but what I need to know, is if its compulsory to add this vpl membrane thing (I've never seen, or have any idea or any info on it.. both Youtube & the www isn't providing any clarity as I'd have thought, on even one good eg) for an extention now to pass B.regs. A definite answer. Your post -suggests- its not compulsory. But there's no point me doing all the stages of interior work with the intention to pass B.Regs, for the officer to ask "is there a vcl/ no/ go back & put one in or doesn't pass then" if I've decided not to if I've established that its perhaps not compulsory.. but in fact it was.

Hi- I'm a bit stuck on the next step on my TF 2-floor extention. Done the kingspan (2x 70mm). Do I have to put a vcl membrane on next or something, before the p'Board? My builder I think mentioned it back in oct (he's built main part of extention > me to do all inside stuff). Thanks- zoot

Fluff is going in/ always the plan.. but I do have some PIR offcuts: should I make best use of these in the area suggested, friction fitting in the ends of the joists ('above' the wall PIR).. or a waste of time/ just put fluff up to ends? This area between the floors, with the timber "packers" adjacent above & below plus the dividing floor timber edges too.. is alot of timber/ not much PIR so surely the cold weak spot (IE in from walls).

There will be ceiling (not roof) insulation. The 1st 2 pics are the room above the 2nd 2 pics.

If you're referring to my undercrackers.. no.

No what?

Hi trialuser- assuming you're referring to the horizontal timbers above / below the kingspan: actually 3x each. Certainly not by design: builder had to be pressured to add as many as poss by me ("oh it'll be fine, we've got packers"), in order to steal every inch of both room heights.. cos he built the whole damn thing too low by a full foot relative to the plan [& gave me a series of BS excuses along the way to stop my enquiries, as to why: I still, & never will, know the answer]. Not happy about them: not only the Q never leaves as to why he just simply didn't get the Co to make the wall sections 6" higher each (let alone not make them -all- yet another 6" higher each.. which is simply & very clearly what's on the plan to build) to negate the need for any "packers" I'll never know; but also they mean less insulation possible, which resulted in the BCO upping the PIR wall thickness.. as well as introducing more cold @ the dividing floor area in particular (top master bedroom floor). I'm trying to forget this fiasco tbh.

From the RHS timber is all I recall Onoff. Be great if I dont actually need/ am forced to having this damn membrane tbh. Anyway I'm eyeing up the insulation job in between the ceiling joists as job next.. be good to get the top room 'fully warm' asap.

Does anyone know if its definite I have to put some sort of membrane over the timber studs & kingspan, IE before the plasterboard? If so can anyone shed any light on this job.. thanks, zoot.

Ok thanks for detailed info on this- no not a grey area then per se, but we're doing it safe.. & going 450mm. My '78 fender twin is higher, so will cover the most visible double socket twds one corner anyway. All kingspan in both rooms' walls in, just LE soudal foam the gaps today.. this job done. Great to get this job out the way. So next is the dividing floor/ ceiling insulation. Ive gone for both rooms l.e.d. 5w downlights.. as I wasn't too sure on led battens for workshop. What I hadn't accounted for, & what my 'leccy chap says needs, is a cleared space around each light within the ceiling insulation: not a prob upstairs room, but far from ideal in the dividing floor/ ceiling which I was planning to make a noise-contained-as-possible "lid" to the workshop below (without going ££ all-guns acoustic insulation).. the 6 downlights will now be a noise escape route. What's the min ammount of cleared space I should be doing for these downlights? very little heat produced from these led bulbs compared to hot halogen gu10's. I do have the whole height of the floor (180mm in my case) to play with.. could I foam-fix-in some kingspan offcuts above each I wonder wedged between the joist tops? thanks, zoot.

Interesting ideas chaps- I too like the idea of switches at door handle H.. so might shift down a bit. Anyway my electrician just popped by, & said yes effectively Onoff correct about new extention not needing to comply with 450mm.. but said a 'grey area' plus its just best to go 'safe' in case a grumpy BCO he said. So better safe than sorry/ they'll go 450mm. I'll take your advice Peter & go 1150mm for my workbench sockets then. Many thanks.

Well that's where the sockets have gone uostairs room/ done, but I'd have wanted them near the floor to be discreet myself, if I'd known. dammit. But the lower room's are above the workbenches.. I best call the BCO & check now I guess. thx zoot.

Eh? so the 450mm & 1200mm figures.. are n/a for an extention? wtf.

I swear I'm gonna pop open the champers not at the new extention party zoots dancing girls & dancing bears & stuff going on etc.. but to toast never having to read another building form thing!

Just simply where do I have to put my socket, where my light switch. That's all. But these regs xyz & the spiel.. jesusH. Thanks alot chaps.

Ok thanks. I can now understand the centrline is horizontal (I was thinking a vertical centreline.. ? eh.. & my head was hurting trying to understand). Right. So actually the answer is 410cm to the btm edge of socket then as minimum (if its horizontal centreline of socket is 450mm as minimum).. I can only assume. So this Q has introduced another factor, this 1200mm figure. So this refers to my switches -maximum- height they can be? is this correct?

Hi MJN. Sorry I'm not understanding "..to 1200mm to the centreline of the socket". All I can understand from your reply is one sole word "yes".. but the rest is incomprehensible. All I know, is my electrician has said the sockets need to be a certain minimum distance off the floor. I'm just tring to establish what this is to concur with his figure of 450mm. Surely there is just one answer (one figure) to the question-?

Coming along well, I'm 2/3rds into job.. godawful dust/ I cannot believe this stuff's allowed, I feel bad just brushing off outside after Ive sawn it up inside.. I could never cut outside with all the plastic on the news (& I find on my walks, & stop to p/u along our stunning b-roads here). Anyway, can anyone confirm for me the minimum B.Regs height for sockets off the floor? I was told "450mm to bottom of socket", by my electrician, for my upper room. But the lower ground floor room.. is it the same figure? thanks- zoot

I was thinking of gaffa earlier MJN.. but for pulling the foil off, as it is stuck in a bit. I think I'll try Cpd's idea 1st then try your approach. thanks chaps.

Been too windy to do outside, so I've cut in lower room/ brush off outside & take thru house up stairs etc, but I've blitz-done the top room. I do need to pull out a section fwds tho: is there any way to do? its not mega-tight or I'd not ask.. ie it can be pulled fwd, if I can get a grip on it. thanks zoot.

Ok thanks for the tips- now wind's finally back to normal I can consider doing outside. Will defo brush each bit off. Done my guide rail so I'm just about set to go. Can anyone just tell me beforehand tho: about the socket cables & light switch cables touching the insulation: is the idea to clear a good gap/ channel for them, or just a minimal ammount of clearance-?

Yup. I think it makes perfect sense to Peter (esp if capable chap in Onoff's how-to clip uses a saw). Doing outside.. don't like the idea in this damn wind, might take me off on a zoot magic PIR carpet adventure. I was thinking measure my gap upstairs, cut in lower room (its all stacked down here), bring each bit up & fettle to fit. What do you think? To cut outside means the dust strewn over my gdn & into wee stream.. feels a bit wrong tbh.