zoothorn

seriously?? only £20?! bloomin eck right I'm going hammer & tongs on a few more slightly dodgy uns. terrific.. if so.

Useful- cheers Onoff. I'm going clear standard glass then. Can anyone give me a ballpark £ figure what this 750mm x 1000mm might be? I've not a clue. Waiting on quote from Co tmrw.

Getting in is child's play for me vs getting the 2 long b'stards out. I had no choice but crack the beading with a chisel to get a 1" gap.. then it was downhill but even so I had to deform the corner bit to pull it out. very stuck mine were. probably age of units.

I can only make a guess, 18 yrs? they're modern looking/ usual upvc white jobs, but pretty weathered/ 2 showing typically-shot inside fogging. What's the average lifespan for basic/ budget DG? k/soft coat.. blimey I don't know- I don't think they have a greenish sluggish tint. They may have a very very slight dark tint if anything.

Ok I get that: this being above a kitchen worktop tho, just a normal window.. no kids or xyz flying about warranting it being toughened, Id have thought just 'clear' would you?

@Onoff ok understood thanks. I was thinking of (my n'bors) terrible male pattern baldness: no pattern there just a shiny smooth dome. Can I safely assume then whatever's put as standard in basic white upvc windows.. is just 'clear', rather than 'toughened'?

Ok got a reply from glazer Co, concurs with @Oz07 @ 24mm (& would be 735 x 1065 they say). They've asked if "clear, pattern, or toughened?" no details on glass afaict; as its just a kitchen window- is it simply "clear" then? I don't know what 'pattern' means, or even could tell if its toughened could I?

@PeterW ok so 'small round led units' for upstairs.. do you have a link to which you & JSH used? are they not all pretty cold colour-temp compared to the nice warm older GU10 haogens? The link is a glazer Co indeed.. but shows the typical ceiling 'spot' lights I was referring to, as I thought they're called. thanks- zoot

Ok so you're saying that its likely mine is sort of 99% likely, a 24mm depth glass? I don't know what regs are involved.. but if I order a DG unit I assume it'll be up to regs, wouldn't I? (or are you suggesting something else- sorry I'm not understanding this part of this post either).

sorry what does 4:16:4 mean? And do you mean my units are likely not 25mm, but 24mm? (I did measure taking gaffer off.. 25mm = 1").

Hi PeterW- aren't the small round units 'spots' tho? What I need upstairs is 2 of what I had in my last place, simply like this (but they were halogen, warm colour temp.. but very hot iirc) https://www.aberglaziers.co.uk/ thanks zoot

Can you remember if maybe 18 yrs ago Onoff, DG units might have been made in inches? I seem to measure exactly 1/16" shy of 29"" & 42 (my h x w).. & bang-on 1" for my glass depth. Can they be made in inches.. or do I just order 24mm D (& 735 x 1065mm).

Hi- (for my 2-room extention) I'd like some help choosing lights, to go in a very low H room (2m). And 2x ceiling flush spot types in bedroom (2.3m H) above. Its essentially a workshop below. I just need ~6x o'head lights around sides of room, over worktops. Just best budget option thesedays. Maybe a few same spots in lower 'workshop' room too instead of floury strip things? as ceiling is so low they'd take up least space, & look neater maybe.. surely better if I have to sell, take out worktops & make this is a spare bedroom to have neater ceiling spots rather than ugly floury strips. Ideas appreciated, zoot

ProDave can you just explain what you mean by 'top cord' of joist? the underside of the top timber? What my builder guys (not the main one) suggested re. insulation, is go 100mm more (ie 400mm for my 300mm gaps) & bow it upwards to facilitate keeping in place. Which seems sensible- is this the general rule of thumb? But, a problem if so: if wool is bowing up & the cables are tied (as I assume you mean by top cord) to underside of top joist timber.. it will likely push up touching the cables.

Back to the french doors with condensation. I went to open the RHS one (main one) to measure what little height I have in the frame (yet another thing my build's has height issues with.. doors have only 165mm 'opening' height) & the mechanism seems to have broken: the key stops in the lock in the 10 O'clock.. & 2 O'clock positions & will not open the lock, so door cannot open. Last time both were opened was builder 17th dec, then locked by me. As they open outwards & a drop below (a balcony to be built) they've rarely been opened since installed, then scaffold removed ~ 10th dec. Advice please.

Hi Big Jimbo. Just followed your steps/ put one short rhs bead back in (p'easy- thank lordy for that).. & wiggled DG out just enough to squeeze a tape in to measure thickness. 25mm, on the dime. Terrific help that was. Now, my HxW measure 735mm x 1065mm. This implies to muggins here, both these being 2mm shy of a full inch mark.. & the age of the upvc windows (at a guess 15 yrs).. that it likely was made in inches @ 29" x 42" x 1". Is that a safe assumption? Can I get DG units made to imperial (proper) dimensions, or do I just ask for 735 x 1065 x 24 mm (being nearest to 25mm)?

[edit] Ok thanks to @Big Jimbo for reply with info (I didn't see had posted). Cheers zoot.

Ok I've done it.. had to use chisel & damaged a lip of the bead but should be ok. Minor dmg to top & btm beads.. but hey ho/ had to be done. Sides out p'easier. I can measure glass, in place > can order: are DG units all a standard depth? My glass sits on 2 packers/ fine, obvious. But held in place by gaffa tape all way round (at least holding in & not falling in my face here). So is it a 2 man job one outside tonking the b'stard twds muggins inside until it shifts?

Got a Harris thing/ version of that multi tool, I think. Damn hard but got one bead off.. but broke a corner bit/ some glue along glass too why so hard to do I guess. Other 3 are gonna be buggers as I don't have the leverage due to sill & side reveals being only 3/4" away from gap.

No, you found me the lower link- I looked all over that site for stuff, didn't see any tools FS. Cheers Peter & @Oz07

Damn doors are unable to open now. Seems the latch mech has broken on the RHS door (LHS door is ok). bloomin cheapest doors possible, I can tell.

Marvellous link thanks- the 2nd one being £10 less that is- it'll be damn useful for other stuff too. Tbh I still think it's gonna be nigh on impossible.. but worth a go with this whatnot.

If I'm slightly damaging my beading just with a thin 1mm putty knife, I'll surely to more dmg with any chisel tho. I think its that pro tool.. or bust.

Hi Stewpot- great help there. Cant believe the chap in 1st clip undid/ removed/ replaced a glass.. in 3.42 mins!! Its that scraper thing I need then: it seems like it needs a sharp edge to be able to grip onto the bead & then lever it slightly. Anyone know what they're called? worth me buying one & at the least having another go. thanks for help chaps- zoot

I was wondering if I could buy a specific 'scraper' tool.. seems a shame to have to spend £100's (tbh I don't have) when its just a bit of plastic needs popping correctly preventing me doinmg the job.