zoothorn

Thanks Onoff.. I have it clamped LHS. Its walking off the long plank is more likely. and Im reading a book on pirates at the mo too..

Actually it'll be fine I think, the stream's practically a trickle & I can whack it on quick no window- its just getting to the roof that side thatll be the only challenge.

Two panes to redo here..

Tricky stuff now..

@Onoff ok I'm not gonna be able to fill vast majority, either fire in beads or foam/ no. Fill with treated timber? with this +5mm PIR protrusion it means trimming the tops of loads of timber 4x2.. not possible/ feasable job, for me. So I can only do PIR-offcuts in the side gaps I think. Anyway least I can attack this once shed up/ time to consider. I hope at least I -have- gained stopping cold from comig UP from ground as it is, even if I can't fill the voids. thx

Rushing waters? erm tiny trickle. Yup i now too see this will be high, so if it needs a 3 stage ladder I can borrow one (& Ive sourced a pB lifter £25 for a day so I can pay my other chap 2 hrs to help if needs be). What are your thoughts on this gap above my PIR & the floor tho? (2nd shed pic @ side shows how the gaps are). All thru/ under floor. Have I ruined/ negated the PIR? or I'm wondering is the main purpose of it to stop cold coming -up- to the floor so its still valid-?

Ideally I understand the suggestion: but I'm really loathed to not construct it exactly as it was dismantled, IE (like the 2nd shed pic above) the walls resting on the floor's extended edge bits.. I'm gonna have a n'mare re-constructing it as it is you see.

Done this with dpm folded bits 3mm or so. Onoff one thing's clear now: my floor t&g as you can see sits upon the 2x1 battens. So now floor fixed.. of course I have a gaps of 1.5" or so H under the t&g floor, above the PIR. If you look at my 2nd 'shed' pic.. imagine the tarmac is my PIR. Have I totally negated the function of the PIR? I mean I can close the 4 side gaps, with long PIR bits forming a frame around perimeter.. but only on the sides. There will still be these air voids, between the 2x1 floor battens.

Back to the fixing it down Q. I've put in 3x turbo bolts, each side thru floor > into 3x2. So I'm happy floor's fixed down fine. But the question remains: how the cabin will be secured to it, if only the bottom log layer can be screwed to the floor-? IE the cabin isn't fixed down above the lowest log. Its just reliant on gravity/ weight, to keep the roof on in a gale, I assume. It is a pretty significant weight.. but.

Just a reminder as it was before I dismantled..

I aim to win the BHocd cup, & you the runner up.

@Onoff cheers for ideas/ sketches prior post (just seen your replies chaps after I put my pics up- cam temp fixed). Best idea is your 5mm insert-risers.. but for sourcing such things/ hard placcy must be (&introduces a gap for moisture/ needs careful thought). As you can see floor in 3 slotted sections, crossbeam timbers just about ok: I wonder whether the interlocking ones on the PIR area might squish it down 5mm over time. The walls actually sit upon the crossbeam 1" protruding ends now I recall, getting it all out after 6 months. Or I just take off crossbeams, use the floor t&g sections/ lay on the PIR.. so negating the 5mm issue. Walls instead sit on my 3x2. But I don't know how the front door area is config'd.. if it needs the crossbeam front.

@Onoff @PeterW

@PeterW & @Onoff done the sub floor! ok will attempt a pic tmrw. All fine except my PIR is 5mm proud of the surrounding 3x2 frame (45 bloody mm). Many PIR offcuts used so all seams foil taped. What can I do re. the 5mm discrepency-? racked my noggin but as usual very little of worth emerges. Great start tho.

Understood- that makes sense. Had to go soundbloc.. only 12.5mm available. Wish it was all normal jeepers. May I ask a last-minute panic Q: it is ok to use my boards upright config on these studs yes? (portrait). thanks. z

Actually I need to check my basic board plan before anything. Pics of room below (french doors midway between 2 pics as it were). The easier wall to start is 2nd pic @ only 2.1m high. So what I've done is look for studs @ W 1200mm & find some twds middle. So I can get two full W boards to fill most of middle area.. leaving a 460mm gap LHS, & 900mm gap RHS. Do I start with one of these two full boards? or, from the LH corner with say the 460mm offcut > then a full W board? thanks- zoot schmoot.

Gotcha- good idea. Great got my dpc (yup just thin enough I think) & turbos. May start later.. I'm having teething last min checks prepping my soundbloc job. thx

Hi. I'm all set to wallboard my top room (walls only in here) & seen YT clips for reminders. BCO told me to soundbloc "& only 5kgs more".. but a shock lifting & 44kgs so BCO wrong: almost 2x weight of std 12.5mm. So the extra weight has introduced a BIG factor. 1st thing I need to ask, is the gap at board-to-floor. Hidden by skirting I guess, but is there a std 1cm maybe to aim for? I guess the gap needed in order to wiggle/ shift board to get it up dead-flush to ceiling? assuming this meeting is the priority, placing my 1st board. Thanks- zoot.

Found a last bit of 8m threaded bar. So could go 2x bar front & few turbo's @ back: sods for me to get in iirc. Rain hampers job today/ tmrw start. I'm ready to go on my top room wall pB.. so doing a thread & last prep done (if you could dip in Peter Id be grateful!). Thanks.

Really? damn I need to figure this out then. not as simple as. So I can screw sideways thru the lowest wall 'log' into the 2x1 floor batten. Then what 300mm threaded bar down thru these battens > all thru my base timber? I think I have some ~6" turbo-screw-bolt things with the hex head to hand (I used on the base, wood to wood).. I wonder if these down & into base timber instead would suffice?

Aha good. I was wondering about what 'mu' was.. micro, erm. Anyway great. Sub-floor shouldn't take long. Then its figuring out all my wall bits/ how tf which bit goes where (tho I did mark in biro on). Are these simple log cabins simply fixed down by their weight alone do you know Onoff? this one was on tarmac (s/h one I dismantled) so obviously not bolted down. I do have a big sticky-outy-roof at the front in prime "lift me up scotty" config, facing due west/ IE BIG wind.

@PeterW ok bought the toolstation stuff ^.. hope its the right one! Thanks- zH

So are you suggesting this? https://www.toolstation.com/damp-proof-course/p54162 And suggesting bc you know its thinnner than the textured stuff at screwfix? Its JFDI yes its p'easy a 5m job.. once Ive got the right stuff. Until then its hours to trawl/ ask/ ask again etc to establish what it might be.

Ok thanks chaps- so not a sheet but a cheapo DPM/ in DPC width.. now this is all I see at screwfix: the very stuff I think is too thick to do a sharp 90* down, after I staple it to the horizontal outer 3" of the osb under the 3x2 'frame'. https://www.screwfix.com/p/capital-valley-plastics-ltd-damp-proof-course-black-30m-x-150mm/78665 I can understand if the suggestion is thin stuff (for eg, same guage as my placcy dpm under my concrete) but not thick DPC stuff that's lain under concrete block course. The screwfix stuff folks say is extra-thick too. I had a roll of this, & its like 1.5mm thick. Could you possibly provide an eg of what you suggest? or is it just this ^. I only have screwfix or toolstation to get this tmrw AM. I must fit this sub-floor tmrw. thx zoot