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oranjeboom

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Everything posted by oranjeboom

  1. oranjeboom
    Plasterboard butts up against a ceiling beam and having siliconed the junction I now see it's pulled itself away from the wood. The wood was painted first and then silicone was applied. Not sure whether it was a high modulus one, probably just a general builder's silicone. As there's a slight movement here during warmer weather, it needs a flexible sealer. Any recommendations? Plasterboard / painted wood junction: https://www.toolstation.com/premium-building-silicone-310ml/p56400 - apparently sticks to wood (but probably not painted wood).
  2. oranjeboom
    Okay, so no further failsafe is deemed required. Most likely I will be in the house whenever the willis heaters are on as I'll just be dumping heat into the slab gradually via manual on/off means. If it turns out that I don't go down the heat pump route, I'll wire them up via room thermostat. So next question is what cable to bring in from the fuse cupboard to the willis heaters bearing in mind I will have two of them? They will each have a 20A DP switch outlets.
  3. oranjeboom
    Yes Jeremy, there is a safety cut out that pops out if temp exceeds 70oC: I'm just concerned if that were to fail also, then I could have some serious high temps going into the slab! Blending valve on UFH will be set to fully open (70oC) though so if that works as intended, the +70oC water should flow back into the willis circuit? I'm just wary of multiple equipment failure.
  4. oranjeboom
    I hate compressions! Think you've tightened each little weep, then come back a day later and find it weeping again or find another drip in a new location that seemed fine before. Think it's behaving now. So compression vessel with tundish (will go to overflow pipe in the room next door) - thanks for the info @Jeremy Harris, @Nickfromwales above! So plan is to have the blending valve on manifold set to fully open so that the UFH pump will hopefully pump the water around the willis circuit without too much burden. As a failsafe, I was thinking about adding on a temperature control switch that would switch off the willis heaters if their thermostats fail and they go over 75c. Would something like this work?? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NBT0Q10/ref=psdc_1938192031_t1_B0796RSMRW Insert probe into this 'open' tee piece where I was going to use my temperature guage Could that be wired into the 20A DP switch outlets which? I'll have one DP switch for each willis heater. I just need it to be KISS!! I could go with @TerryE's DS18B20 approach, but no time to configure all of that right now.
  5. oranjeboom
    Sunamp will re-direct you to any of their official resellers/installers. I bought mine direct from Sunamp (a few years ago...long story) so was looking for an official installer. Out of 4 contacted, 3 did not bother replying and 1 has dragging foot syndrome. I would hope they they are more interested in supply and fit enquiries but have heard that it's a bit of a shambles with many of them also. Fischer also do supply and fit but I think their prices are on the high side iirc. Only yesterday did I see they have their marketing campaign on facebook: Some of the answers they give to people's questions make me think that they don't really know 'their' product ("Aquafficient heat batteries")very well.
  6. oranjeboom
    @Nickfromwales - stop showing off. You win on the neatness front! Okay, so have tee'd off and this is what I have: T = Tundish position (15mm in /22mm out) W = pipe from willis set up. Fill loop will be disconnected and valve shut off so that willis feeds into expansion vessel. I'll also have a check valve on the incoming water mains that the fill loop is connected to so there's no contamination. FYI - Pipe from tee going up is only to illustrate set up - that will be replaced after I find the pipe bender!
  7. oranjeboom
    Thanks @Jeremy Harris ! Will have to take worst case scenario with the willis setup i.e. copper all the way. What I don't get is how some of these 2-in-1 (dry trap and a tundish combined) tundish products state that you can plumb them in "allowing water to be safely discharged to a soil or waste pipe" i.e. no need for external drain. If the water is near enough to 100C, then that tundish isn't going to reduce that temperature down by much or at least down to a level where the plastic waste pipe isn't going to get impacted.
  8. oranjeboom
    Yes Nick, I had figured that one out!! ? But I'll be back soon for more amateur plumbing questions!
  9. oranjeboom
    Was hoping that's what somebody would suggest. Thanks!
  10. oranjeboom
    Yes. This is for my UFH willis setup, not for DHW:
  11. oranjeboom
    Right, almost done here with this willis setup. Just need to plumb in the expansion vessel. Have 15mm pipe tee'd off from the willis return pipe. But bit stumped on what to do with the expansion vessel. Fill loop is obviously a temporary connection (A), pressure vessel on top (B) pressure gauge (C) on the opposite side and pressure relief valve at bottom. So I presume I need to add a bit of pipe from here (D) that will act as discharge pipe? So where does the 15mm from willis setup get plumbed into? Confused....
  12. oranjeboom
    Thanks @tommyt! I'll see how it performs before i open up the unit. Hope you get a better (bulk) price for Purolite than the online prices!
  13. oranjeboom
    Thanks @Jeremy Harris. Okay, it was actually one the the riser pipe that connects to the bottom of either tanks: Easy to replace but had to change one of the rubber O rings as it kept leaking when i tested it. Looks as though someone had drilled through outer case of the unit to fit a drain point and drilled too far and hit the riser pipe! Fill valve looks okay but is set at 300g. Think I read somewhere that is determined by water hardness in your area and can be swapped round (which I may have to do, i.e. 350g). Okay - hopefully resin levels are still fine. Guess I'll see how the unit performs when plumbed in. The resin itself seems to be Purolite which has a nice price tag! e.g. https://www.aquasoftsofteners.co.uk/aquasoftsofteners/final.asp?id=1146 Haven't really been able to find any servicing manuals, but it's all a bit of a closed shop - anything goes wrong and you either have to tinker with it yourself or take it to an authorised dealer. Just glad I didn't pay £800 for it!
  14. oranjeboom
    I went ahead and purchased the unit for about £40 iirc. Approached a local softener company who had two older units that were in the skip so kindly gave me the riser pipes from both of them. Easy to replace, but not actually plumbed the unit in to test. I may still have to do that also....if Jeremy is referring to the same part that I have changed. Bought some salt last week so will just place that in the unit, get it to regenerate and then see whether the unit provides softer water!
  15. oranjeboom
    I guess that you also insulated the condensate drain pipe? Any chance that insects could have gotten up the pipe and caused the blockage over time? Also, where does it drain to?
  16. oranjeboom
    Right then, so adding a pump on the feed pipe into manifold, just above the willis heaters: Would that work? It's the only bit of spare pipe I could tap into really. And there's a Wilo glandless circulating pump going at a decent price at BNQ. Will that do the job? Brand Wilo Energy rating A++ Flow volume 3.5m³/h IP rating IPX2D Power output 40 W Voltage 230 V Pack quantity 1 Model Yonos PICO 25/1-6-130 Product code 4048482758480
  17. oranjeboom
    And what of costs of that PCM over the standard PCM58? And availability? So you would need larger PCM48 units then = more required space, and the units may cost more also? May be okay if your DHW demand is low I guess.
  18. oranjeboom
    Bugger! Wish someone had spotted that at the beginning. Will see where I can squeeze the pump in. That's a filling loop connected to the mains - I will need purge all the loops of air. Also need to get a bit of copper in there still to the expansion vessel (out of shot). So what pump should I be looking at?
  19. oranjeboom
    Was going to rely on the UFH manifold pump.
  20. oranjeboom
    Question for the experts. Can I use a flexi braided steel tap type connector to join up the copper to the manifold? Most of the flexi's I have seen will operate up to 10Bar and temps of 85 degrees. The willis setup is most likely going to be a temporary set up ( and likely will be used as a backup if ASHP is out of action) so be handy if I could just disconnect the whol willis side of things by using flexi's. With the current arrangement it's also a pain in the backside to solder and place all the copper, only for me to have to cut the pipework later on again for ASHP connections.
  21. oranjeboom
    Well the inspector always knows best.... But why? Greater threat of movement if the founds are different? Yes, I'd be reluctant to fill all that in with MOT too. May as well get additional insulation in and depending on what u-value you are aiming for, you could save a bit by going for 160 PIR/ 100 EPS (0.085 W/m2K)
  22. oranjeboom
    Just checked here too: 25-70°C even though instructions say up to 60°C. Suspect the Willis heaters all vary to some degree (pun not intentional!)
  23. oranjeboom
    There are at least 6 people on here that have done it the 'Willis way' - see users' list here in intro section. Here's my attempt from the other week. Not plumbed into manifold yet, but was going to leave the blending valve in situ. Pipe still to be connected to expansion vessel. As for controls, I may just have it in on/off mode for now and then use the willis thermostat that can heat up to 60c. Not sure how low it goes.
  24. oranjeboom
    That is impressive solar performance indeed. Are you sure the "calling for heat" LED is working?? Have you got hot water....?
  25. oranjeboom
    Thanks @Jeremy Harris - Just what I needed to know. Would have been sooooo difficult to incorporate those LEDs into the cover panel....a mere cost of a few £.
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