Neil
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Mine is approx 5 metres from the house and has been in for just over a year and is located in / under the lawn. I have never heard it running and there is absolutely no smell coming from it. The drain run is ventilated with a soil / vent pipe at the house. The holding tank is approx 1000 litres so it only pumps once about every 2 or 3 days. The 'contents' travel about 80 metres to a sewer connection. No specific sign off was required. (in England).
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No, I don't think that they will sell direct. Went through a company called City Plumbing, who I think are a subsidiary of Travis Perkins.
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Sorry I can't tell you much about the internals as it is completely encased. I bought the cylinder 3 years ago and paid £757 plus VAT for the 250 litre size. If I remember correctly there was very little difference in price between the OSO and the other more popular makes which were all B and C rated. Almost forgot, I also got a £100 cashback from OSO as they were running some type of sales promotion at that time. Running it with a solar PV I-Boost at the moment.
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Have you looked at OSO Delta Coil. This claims to be the only A - rated HW cylinder available in the UK. I went for the 250 litre version. Although I have no detailed measurements, it appears to lose approx 1 degree overnight. https://osohotwater.co.uk/product/delta-coil/
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I used this company a couple of years ago for both pre-build and post build assessments. Very good to deal with, (all by e-mail). Completed reports were produced in 3 to 4 days.Current cost appears to be £90. https://sapeasy.co.uk/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0pfzBRCOARIsANi0g0sBB4Edui1eo6FafgHc083V9gwsavZtKEjOiMVdNqSUb_iUPB8WcpoaAhflEALw_wcB
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I went with a 32mm stop tap in MDPE then reduced down to 28mm and into a pressure gauge / regulator. Then reduced down to 22mm before heading off to kitchen, hot water cylinder, bathroom etc.
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I am approx 100 metres from the main supply and was advised to use 32mm. The flow and pressure are both very good. You would need a 32mm stop tap in the property, but everything else would be stepped down to 22 or 15mm to supply the various outlets.
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Something else to watch!! I had some 110mm drainage pipes in the stone layer within the house footprint. Both ends of the pipes had vertical upstands to rise above the finished floor levels. Following very heavy rain these pipes 'floated out'. Although I had them weighted down it took me a few hours to re-instate and get the correct falls again.
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I want to use metal pattress boxes... but...
Neil replied to Carrerahill's topic in Electrics - Other
.....I have pinged the laser around and marked my mounting heights at 400mm...... I thought that the minimum height for sockets was 450mm from finished floor level, -
@zoe61 - the strings are 38mm thick and 250mm deep and the treads are 50mm thick. It looks quite 'chunky' and solid which is the look that we wanted. There is no movement at all in the stairs or glass, however be aware that the glass is extremely heavy. There are lots more photos if you look on the Ashington Timber and Joinery Facebook page.
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A local joiner has just made and fitted a staircase for me. The glass balustrade is 'bolted' to the stringer. The glass is 15mm toughened, there is absolutely no movement or flex in the glass. A small handrail was fitted to the top of the glass which adds some overall rigidity, however the handrail is really intended to keep the glass from getting marked with loads of greasy / sticky finger marks.There are a lot of photos on the joiner's Facebook page, I have attached a link to the photos which give a lot more detail.
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What to treat doors when the manufacturer says "do not oil"?
Neil replied to ProDave's topic in Doors & Door Frames
I have used XL Joinery veneered Oak doors. To be on the safe side I contacted the Technical Dept at XL in view of their 'do not use oil' warning.They advised that it was quite acceptable to use the Osmo Door Oil on their doors. -
@nod Thank you. Marshalls have an E-Bay outlet that appears to sell their end of line stuff, will have to start checking out some prices.
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Just weighing up the merits of block paving compared to Indian sandstone. I need somewhat over 200 square metres and am leaning towards block paving as I am assuming that it will be easier to lay. I suspect that laying on a bed of sand will be easier / quicker than bedding slabs on cement and having to point all the joints. Just out of interest @nod which pavers have you chosen and why did you source them from Ireland?
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Does the council class DIY as Construction
Neil replied to ultramods's topic in Building Regulations
I wouldn't be too sure about that. I had one complaint from a neighbour during my build. It was about 9.30am on a Sunday morning and he complained that I had woken him up. A few days later I received a letter from the Environmental Health Dept at local council stating that they had received a complaint about my 'activities'. The letter went on to warn me that I was only allowed to work on the site from 8.00am to 6.00pm Monday to Friday; 8.00am to 1.00pm on a Saturday and no work at all on Sundays and Bank Holidays. The letter listed a number of 'penalties' if I failed to comply. Although it annoyed me at the time, I did try to save all my 'quiet' jobs for weekends.