Canski

I’m guessing you refused then. We want to do a professional job but when people deliberately put obstacles in our way something like this happens. I’d have left the snots hanging. (Just saying)😜

We tiled on to 22mm egger protect which they claim can be tiled directly on to. No problems so far after 9 months.

I’ve only just seen this but thank you. Daikin can’t work out the problem remotely so are sending an engineer to meet the installer on Thursday.

I note that you have not answered the question so I’ll ask it again. Did you give them access to build it from your side or did you refuse ?

Hi all. I’m after some help. My Daikin Altherma has been working fine until yesterday but now I have no heat. When the unit is switched on the circulator runs until about 30 l/min flow then after about 90 seconds it switches off. No fault codes are showing. I’ve tried an hard reboot as well as a full reset on the controller but no luck. Any ideas what to do ?

I agree even more so if the PIR is tongue and grooved. It would work fine in walls without lintels, cavity trays or openings.

100% agree. I always recommend pumped beads insulation as on balance believe it is the best option. That’s fine for a full house but for small extensions it would prove very expensive. As a brickie who sees tight gaps around cavity trays I don’t trust the beads to get into some of these gaps. I know I that I can fill them 100% with cavity bats. I also know that I can install cavity bats neatly to the top of the wall plate and can see that it’s there before the roof covering goes on.

1) the insulation needs to go down to at least the bottom of your floor insulation. If you have room to go lower then do it. But there is no point of over insulating cavity walls to an area that is served by air bricks giving cold air flow beneath your floors. 2)no gaps around the cavity trays or anywhere else. 3) ideally protect with a roll of DPC on top of the wall, use a cavity tray roll to do this in one continual piece for each elevation. Try to plan the works so that the internal and external skins finish at the same height before covering. This is a pain in the butt if it rains during the day. You will need to weigh this down well. When it rains quite often the wind gets up. You will not always succeed in keeping the insulation dry but you will also not succeed in getting a 100% perfect build. At least you have made an effort. 4) wall ties need to penetrate the insulation at reveals where the ties are spaced at 225 mm centres. I use a long sharp knife to achieve this cutting a slot the width of the knife ( about 25 - 30 mm) 5) over filling is better than under filling but not excessively. Any cut bats that I do on 150 mm insulation are typically 20 mm longer than the gap. The most important thing is to cut the bats square. I have found the easiest way is to cut them them through a ‘slot’ If there’s room I do this in the scaffold and lie the bay on the scaffold and cut through the gap in the boards. When I work off the ground it’s easier to set up two trestles and a sheet of OSB or similar with a slot cut in it at least 500 mm long. I lay the insulation on this board then cut through the insulation and the slot. If it’s cut square you save on waste and have no gaps. Win Win ! Watch out for …. 1) Brickies attempting to cut it with their trowels. This makes me shout at them. It’s quicker and easier to do it properly. 2) Brickies building higher than the insulation without covering it. I use lengths of 4 x 1 timber to catch any mortar droppings. You will use it elsewhere on your build anyway. When we reach window height we cut these to fit the panels and move them up or around the build as we go. 3) at lintel height make sure that the gap below the lintel is full before placing the lintels. I try to cut this as an L shape around the lintel rather than cut a small piece below the lintel with a piece joining it. I then make an angle cut ( at the same pitch as the fall on the lintel) to pass the cavity tray through. I’m sure I’ll still get slated for this post but by using these methods you will achieve the best job possible. Alternatively find another better qualified trade to carry this work out while the bricklayers start the stopwatch to get compensated for downtime. 😜I’m just going to find a link for the knives I use. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Insulation-Scabbard-Cutting-Stainless-RockWool/dp/B09RW57LRL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1P0E1NW2VAXET&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.684K2TWJ9ecZU2r20s7M2w4ShwmQYHp_4_4s3wJsF1sX3thu1LFat02fZ9ZjWiizdHfA-RauLUIFuTtgv-HKLUTAF9vifstTeWSkSiVZwNKenGr4DEYuc95QW7qfjew5y2SZkXgP5t89ZIGtHddUktN4AkHmOaZZJUg4SQs3Kxz6LcLEKslEcVaETycQkggid1bUrDN5k3cfN5-rtoUugMwGRUIqLR1NiFVUrvLbbuhZHrvRGdGyENqTIL6S8gNqLkmbQPOTrllelqmfxorPrOS4826YkNmy1qp8ieOZIWc.Q5ZptyHAlgRHUbhm1V-Df08zvXWWWLhHi5jDXsQYEY0&dib_tag=se&keywords=insulation+knife+rockwool&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1736500922&sprefix=Insulation+knife%2Caps%2C207&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1&smid=A3CYBNKKYWTMTI

If you are intending to install the frames after the masonry is complete and are absolutely sure you want old style horns then a solution to ‘the old thread’ could be….DPC on top of the cill to allow slip movement. Then mix some slurry primer and paint it on to the exposed brickwork ( not the front) prior to filling with mortar and pointing. Cut off any excess DPC and seal.

Have you got your drainage in yet ? If you are putting MOT on top of sloppy mud you will just make more sloppy mud. Mothball the site. I know it’s a waste of hire charges but I expect you would be paying labour on top of the hire and it’s all money down the drain.

I’m sorry but installing insulation takes time and I always charge for it. It is not something that should be included in the rates the same as feature bands, cutting up gables and cutting the bottom course of blocks where others have lost the ability to use a laser level correctly. I won’t take on projects with tongue and groove insulation because it’s not fit for purpose. Cutting and installing full fill insulation requires the following skills. 1) be able to use a tape measure 2) be able to use a long sharp knife and a cutting slot. 3) be able to think ahead 4) checking each junction as you go. 5) protecting work properly as brickwork progresses Gaps in insulation is my pet hate and the lads who work with me know it and have known it for years. I can guarantee that there isn’t a single gap in any of the cavity insulation on the 2 houses that I have just built for myself. Like I said it’s not rocket science but it does take time to get it bang on. Time should be paid for. Some of the bricklayers that have worked for some of this forums members were most likely used to working on a ‘rate per 1000 all in’ to include all the sundries. I stopped giving my time away for free 30 odd years ago. You pay peanuts you get monkeys. I do agree that there are plenty of poor bricklayers about but to tar them all with the same brush is pure stupidity.

A shocking comment. I can only presume wine or something stronger was involved.

Hardly rocket science.

It can work out expensive in smaller jobs. What’s wrong with 150 mm full fill cavity bats ?

The problem seems to be the horns. Why have horns ?

My ecologist certainly made his.

It always go one way or the other. They don't call me Mr Lucky for nothing.

Only one got me on this and it hurts. The tiler. Not much money but just the principle. Probably the best tiling I have seen and when he was there he was quick and tidy. He couldn't manage more than 5 hrs a day though and unbeknown to me when I met him had no license or vehicle so his visits were limited to when he could find a labourer with a vehicle. 🙂 I felt sorry for him I think because he had so much potential to get a thriving business going. I just gave him one advance too many which most likely went up his nose and I ended up finishing the last few return visit bits myself. DON'T PAY THE FERRYMAN. This is so true and if you are supplying the materials make sure they help you format the shopping list. It saves hold ups which invariably lead to bigger charges. I always do this with my brickwork customers and it saves me money. Also Nods sites are spotless. There is no better way to prevent chaos than not presenting trades with chaos. My advice is to take time out to plan ahead and keep some work that you can do yourself while the other trades are working. This way you can be on site when queries do arise. My back just loved 210 m2 of porcelain paving followed by fencing and landscaping.

I believe they need to assess the 30 minute meter readings for a few days before the tariffs change. I got fed up with having to learn a different language to speak to BG to sort out their metering problems and recently moved to Octopus at no charge,. The transition went smoothly and we have been up and running with them for about a month. We are on their cosy tariff which gives us 8 hrs of half price electricity at various times during the day. All has been good so far and their customer service for a couple of minor queries has been excellent.

I was dancing when I realised there was no CIL here. Unfortunately it was exchanged for an expensive section 106. That was a short party.

Years ago I made the mistake of putting 100 mm rock wool into a 4x2 stud wall. Bear in mind the 4x2 comes out at 97 x 47mm. We squeezed it in and fixed the plasterboard only for the fixings to pop.

Well done. The final stages are seeming to take an age on mine. We will get there by year 2

Oh thanks. I can’t bring myself to build them for a loss. Maybe the same applies to the OP. We all know it would be a better house if demolished and rebuilt but I doubt if the numbers would add up.

It may be me. I managed an Oh Lordy Lordy out of him for not fitting MVHR 😂😂

You are not going to get brickwork or blockwork supplied and fitted for those rates. I'm unsure about the other items.