bmj1

Do not pay for works not done. If certificate is part of the contracted works, it's reasonable to deduct enough to cover the cost of the certificate as a minimum

I think a silly corner to cut. Take out and start again.

I painted the plastic casing of a bunch of internal unifi APs, to match the ceiling colour, looks fab and doesn't impact signal.

You can do cemfloor at 45mm and call it a day. There's a couple of different cemfloor products but pretty sure we went as thin as 45mm on ours.

I would go so far as to suggest that architects are generally not experts in how to run building projects cost effectively. I'm not knocking the value of a good architect, rather pointing out their limitations to manage expectations. Experienced developers and self builders care more about cost and learn how to optimise a design. The other people who potentially can help are good QSs / PMs.

Proper construction drawings would show it sloping away, so I don't think building regs is really needed here, but agree it wouldn't hurt.

We did 5 bedrooms, with 4 bathrooms, 2 ensuite, 2 with baths. Works perfectly for our needs, and I'm glad we didn't do more unnecessary bathrooms. We're expecting to be here 20+ years, so it's got to make sense to do what is right for you.

Not sure what a window sill horn is - do you mean window sill 'stools' ? Window sill stools Window horns

I've got a 500L Telford Tempest cylinder. Seems to do the job.

I work for one of the UK retail energy suppliers. DM me and I can potentially get this done much faster for you.

I'm going to be controversial - but if you're doing x2 units - why do you need the same ducting requirement ? Could you reposition one of the units - and reduce your ducting run length ? Perhaps it's marginal - but asking the question

I've been following this with interest. I'm so pleased for you. My heart sunk as I read this. I'm so glad they sorted it so quickly also and had a heart, sleep well tonight. It goes to show, when things go wrong, none of the "professionals" take responsibility. Have a drink today. Take care of the cil formalities and don't forget the latest submissions that are required either. This forum has helped me and so many others on so many issues over the years, and we're all here to give back. Good result! 👏

It's a double benefit. Screed is half the thickness and 3x the conductivity. So 6x faster warm up

Sure. Heat doesn't rise when moving between solids. So it will try and move both up into the house and down into the ground. The higher thermal conductivity of a liquid screed means much more heat captured/transmitted upwards into the house, instead of lost below.

3x the conductivity means warmup in 15-20 mins not 2 hours Will be cheaper to run as less heat loss below.

You'll need a specialist installer for it. Likely to be a little more expensive. We used cemfloor, if you call them they can point you to a couple of local specialist installers. I would suggest to get a couple of quotes and go from there.

You've always got the option of swapping sand/cement screed (75mm) for liquid screed (40mm) when dealing with a tight buildup. It's a much better product also (higher conductivity)

I got a couple of quotes on C4 (it's pricey). However, I turned it down as I didn't want a single proprietary system being a key dependency for running our home. It works on a dealer purchase and service/maintenance model, and the costs add up. I'm using Shelley for the ETRs, Ra2 Select for the lighting, and planning on using Home assistant to tie all the different systems together.

You've been well organised and avoided a headache. Well done.

Could be stunning clad in stone. Won't be cheap.

Yes exactly. Not done the test yet, will be interesting to see.

Very. We dry lined with insulated plasterboard and it's a new build. And yes the doors are undercut. I'm inclined to give it a go unless someone tells me otherwise

We've got an mvhr unit on the ground floor bring fresh air into kitchen and extracting air from toilet/boiler cupboard and under stairs. The rest of the house has trickle vents that we can open and close as needed. My thinking was to install this in the master bedroom area and then close the trickle vents in that area. We've got dmev fans in the other wet rooms running continuously.

We're looking at adding some MVHR quite late in the day... (ceilings already up, plastered and painted, walls painted/tiled, we've already moved in and are finding the master bedroom quite stuffy). This minimises what we can do in terms of ducting runs (without damages and so costs being prohibitive). Floor plan showing master bedroom/dressing/ensuite here: I was thinking to do the below, i.e: - MVHR unit in the ceiling (above joinery) - duct straight outside for the in/out - extract out above the shower in the en-suite - fresh air into the master dressing room - drainage straight out into the guttering (outside) From those with experience, do we think this will be sufficient to create a flow of fresh air throughout the master bedroom ? Thank you in advance !

I also did checked and splayed reveals at the front of our house, gives a nicer visual externally by hiding some of the window frame, and it's a nice detail internally with the angled reveals.