HughF

Seems there are both types available…. Daikin also seem to use one that does indeed have the controller in the fan motor. all the ones I’ve seen have had UVW terminals coming out the side, hence my earlier assumption/statement.

Sorry, bad choice of terminology on my part/lack of bother to explain myself properly. It’s 3 phase from a vfd at varying frequency. It’s not DC. you could swap any brushless fan motor from an aircon unit into it and I bet the fan driver wouldn’t care.

It’s very quiet, I think it’s considerably quieter than the gas boiler 3 doors down.…. It’s on the mcs database, Cool Energy 9kW. She’s only mentioned it to me and we get on well so I’m not concerned.

I would imagine a standard fan motor from any other heat pump would work just the same…. As long as it was a three phase one (which they all are these days being variable speed).

Sweet…. Good to know. One neighbour has complained about the noise but we’re on good terms and I don’t think it’s an issue. It’s 20m from her window, at least, with two fences between.

Surely retrospective planning is the way to go if you get caught….

Nothing wrong with r410a either….. keeping our place warm and toasty this winter

Tado sold in the UK is very often the non-opentherm capable version. Apparently ‘heating engineers’ (I use that term loosely) weren’t able to understand how to set it up so tado just stopped selling the OT compatible version over here.

Mine came from ingoodnic. Helpful, pretty much off the shelf. Cheaper than loco2heat who were the other option. 32+32 bonded polyurethane insulation stuff. I used 32mm pex press adapters on one end and the compression bsp adapters on the other.

Self adhesive neoprene hvac tape. Stole a few rolls from my mate who installs Daikin vrv systems… you can get it from eBay.

I didn’t use flexi’s….. straight off the 32mm pex into 28mm press adapters, onto 28mm and then onto brass unions threaded straight onto the heat pump.

I built a box out of trespa cladding and covered it all up…. You could do similar but paint it to match the brickwork?

I objected to paying calefi prices so settled for the Chinese clone.

Water in my system, and a single, fake, anti-freeze valve (£30, alibaba)….

Yep…. But it’s still a load of s**t that a company the size of saint gobain can go after the little guy like this. I’d just open source/leak all the designs and IP then tell them where to go.

Google served up an interesting article for me just now: https://www.constructionnews.co.uk/buildings/legal-threat-forces-startup-out-of-heat-loss-measurement-market-26-02-2024/ F******g lawyers…..

Brevis Higroster - polish….. very nice vents.

The Carel platform that’s used on the Cool Energy units has full adjustment of the PID parameters available.

That’s normal. All my M jaws press like that in my afp101

Sunsynk ask for over current protection on the gen and load ports, then omit to fit them onto the AC board. They managed to fit one onto the grid portion of the board 🤦‍♂️

The ‘grid’ port on the Sunsynk is bi-directional apparently. Separate output for critical loads, and separate generator input. It’s no outback, but it seems to do the job.

Remove all the pumps, remove the mixers. Straight from the heating side of the 3 port diverter (I assume the heat pump also heats a water cylinder, if not then ignore that last bit) to the ufh manifolds. Open up all the actuator heads and get the heat pump set to around 33 degrees flow temp. Open loop, large connected volume is what you want. Buffers/pumps/mixers and all that stuff aren’t required in a full ufh setup.

I’ve got the 1m2 vaillant cylinder… 9kW heat pump with a pwm pump driving into it. Works perfectly and recovers fast.

Yes, but there’s a big difference between ’paying 300/mo’ in a direct debit because the energy company have decided that’s what they want odd you, and actually using 300 quids worth of electric. Most people haven’t actually got a clue how this stuff works, hence why I said what I said.

Looks nice…. Not sure what they’re doing for drainage, as you say.