HughF

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185631610657?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yawjptzcrle&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Interesting..... I wonder who makes this...

Yep, fair point...

Plenty of opportunity to lie when ordering f-gas stuff from the online suppliers over here. And from what I can make out, it's actually non-enforceable against DIY installers. As Marco says, the course is 5 days and a grand, and never expires. I expect most plumbers to upskill at some point. I'm not a plumber but I'm probably going to do it later this year.

Attach it here and I'll highlight the areas you need to look at. They are quite simple to understand once you've seen one or two

I doubt anyone installing Vaillant will be using anything other than a Vaillant cylinder, so I expect there is nothing in the specs on what 3rd party cylinder requirements are.

I agree with you completely on this… and especially in flats. Kensa are doing some good work with communal boreholes, their shoebox w2w unit and a sunamp for dhw. Lots of case studies on YouTube showing the tech.

Urghhh, Y plan….. the dreaded 3 port mid-position valve.

I was going to say the old systemate/boilermate thermal store wasn’t a bad thing for a flat…. I still think an f-gas heated sunamp is the way to go… hook it up to one of the ports on a multi-split, make it appear like an indoor head.

Making the best of the view though...

Note that the 150ltr is also fine for the 11kW aerotherm (r32)... Either way, nice cylinder, cheap price, fits in my airing cupboard....

Tiled/cold bridge/poured in situ concrete sills removed, cavities stuffed with some more rockwool, windows fitted with compriband and fm330... Making the best of a bad situation.

Somewhere in the Vaillant documentation there is a selector chart of which cylinder can be used with which HP. I bought it because it was cheap, local, and will fit my cylinder cupboard. Chris at Cool Energy didn't fall off his chair when I told him his 9kW unit would be driving a 1m2 coil...

The 150ltr slimline Vaillant hp cylinder has a 1m2 coil.... I've posted a reheat curve over in the other thread...

It never makes sense to re-use old radiators, unless they are already type22s and they're less than 3 yrs old. Most rooms can manage just fine with a 600x1200 type22, and they're nearly always on special at screwfix.

5kw Samsung with PWM pump doing a DHW cycle into a 1m2 coil.... The 150ltr slimline Vaillant HP cylinders that were £500 on ebay last year (I've got one waiting to go in, driven by a CE iVT-9)... Just for relevance to the thread... This is Glyn Hudson's DIY install, plenty of details on his YouTube channel. Replaced an LPG combi...

I ordered my new bedroom windows (Uw 0.98, 3G, upvc - nothing fancy) with 4000mm2 vents fitted to each opener (my fabricator of preference didn’t fit them onto the head), and now I’m looking at replacing the supplied trickle vents with humidity actuated ones. I ordered some from bpc ventilation, can’t remember the exact brand, but they’re too chunky to fit. Does anyone have a recommendation for slimline ones?

Edit: 654 duo..

If I was doing this again I would use the 625 duo foam tape, width to suit the channel in the side of the pvc profile.

Update….. as I had gapped the windows to be ‘nice and tight’, and as three of them were retrofit (didn’t want to remove too much internal reveal plaster), I didn’t use the me508. Used a mixture of 13-25 and 3-7 Compriband, positioned mid-frame in the channel where the brackets would go. 330 foam where I could see daylight after the Compriband expanded. BCO came today and seemed happy… didn’t care about the lack of trickle vents on the extension windows (we did say we were fitting dMVHR), didn’t even comment on the position related to the cavity 🤣

Change of plan, the humidity controlled vents I bought won’t fit on the window at all where the supplier has drilled/routed out for the vents.

Should have ordered all-in, then you’ve only had one bag to move 🤣

50-60 is fine, chuck some mesh in there. It's a shed at the end of the day...

My current profile of choice is waterproof without, I assumed all were like this…

Whatever you do, don’t go and do what 90% of window fitters do, and fit a standard sill on top of the stone sill. It looks shocking. And for some reason, I see it everywhere. Order your windows without a sill at all, not required if you have stone sills. I wouldn’t even bother with a stub sill personally.

Unless you have nosy neighbours, just fit the thing and go to retrospective if anyone finds out/complains… which they won’t, unless you make a total nuisance of yourself 🤣 better to ask for forgiveness than permission… my neighbour fitted his pellet boiler and then got retrospective, and he then fitted his ashp himself without planning or mcs. After the stink of his pellet boiler, no-one cared when he installed his ashp.