HughF

If you took the door off your fridge, and then glued the fridge through a fridge shaped hole in the wall of your house, with the back of the fridge inside, you’d be cooling the world, and pumping/dumping the heat into your house. The heat comes from the fact that it has been removed from the inside of the fridge, which, because you’ve ripped the door off, continues to get warmed by the environment. Imagine if you poured water over the back of the fridge, scooped it up, and then pumped it through radiators. This is how your heat pump works. You could just as easily forgo the water and just point a fan at the back of the fridge - you’ve now made an air-air heat pump and you don’t need any radiators. This is precisely the level of explanation that Graham Hendra goes into in his first book. You should grab a copy from Amazon.

Considering our options for radiator alternatives in the rest of the house. Are the Smiths hydronic fan coils any good, or are they complete junk? Does anyone know if they are cooking capable (condensate drain, cleanable)?

Attached, the Saturn air sales ‘heat pumps’ guide, which does quite a good job of explaining the concepts that have been discussed at length in this thread. Those being, defrost cycle & ‘how to use’… download.pdf

There’s no point in pointing this out to @zoothorn, he’ll just question if you have direct experience of a vaillant buffer tank and if not, say you’re unqualified to advise him.

I’ve already got a CoP hit as my rads are sized for 45 flow at -2

A decent mixer (ivar) and pump with hydraulic separation at the mixer inlet…

Hahaha, what a looser..... Good riddance to bad neighbours.

There's not much you can do about the sight lines on the mullions, unfortunately. It's the nature of the profiles these days.

It wasn’t available to download as far as I’m aware. Graham Hendra put up a series of now removed YouTube videos showing how to use the toolkit, and in the video description he said ‘email us for a copy’, so I did. It is floating around on the renewable heating hub forum, and if I get a moment I’ll dump a copy onto my Google drive and share a link.

To give you some idea of costs, just pulled this from my emails from Summer 2021: 1 x 8 cu yd enclosed builders skip for cement based asbestos waste £520.00 which includes up to your first tonne, transport on the empty skip and collected once full, the consignment note and premises code then £185.00 per tonne there after. I think it was a little over £1000 once we’d filled it up.

Cement bonded (roofing sheets) it’s fine and legal for you to put in a skip from an asbestos company. I did 3 ton out of my place in wales 3 years ago, and I’ve got close to 7 ton to go from here now. My dad collected the stuff

28mm long radius bends then, gotcha. That was my plan once I’d come off the 32mm duo where I come out the ground.

Gotcha, so it’s just the length of the pipe that matters, irrespective of the height (because what goes up, must come down)…

Sorry, I’m not the smartest tool in the box, could you explain a bit?

Apparently you can mount them without removing them from the packaging? Latest blurb on the stelrad website

This seems to suggest that at 1.8m head (from my HP to my airing cupboard), and given 35m round trip length (for flow and return), I can get close to 2000ltrs/hr through 32mm.

32mm HiLine E-Flex PEX-a (the stuff you can get from Ingoodnic as a kit) has a 26.2mm bore, the same as 28mm copper.

It looks like there are some good prices to be had from Stelrad direct, so I think I’ll go with them. Apparently they can be mounted with the packaging still on, and they have a 2 coat paint finish. Just over £1k for a whole house full or new rads, including 3x 900h ones and a k3 for one hard to heat room. I think that’s fair. Will confirm tomorrow with my spreadsheet then pull the trigger on them all.

The stuff we put down went down like water….

Ah the good old 'grant' - messing up peoples heating systems since the introduction of said grant. If this were mine, I'd do the following: 1. Politely decline their offer of any further equipment 2. Pay a plumber to install a direct unvented cylinder or a SunAmp. 3. Pay a local air-con company to install air-air and de-gas your split. Leave this old system in a condition where you can sell it on ebay/facebook. This will leave you with a quiet system when it is off, instant heat when you want it turned on, and something that is cheap to run. It will also give you back your wall space.

Nothing a bit of self leveller won't fix... To be honest, this is flatter than the kitchen slab and that's got vinyl on it just fine.

air-air is air conditioning, heat or cold pour out of the unit depending on what mode it is in. Simple, fast to respond, costs nothing to install and run. Why can't you shop around, is your landlord doing all this for you?

Why don't you just have air-air installed in one room? It's considerably simpler, and is dead simple to understand and operate.

Spot on, cheers....

A simple question: 15m run of underground twin pipe, 9kW unit on the end... Should I step up to 40mm or would it be ok to stick with 32mm? I'd prefer to stick with 32 as I have press jaws for that size and can go straight onto 28mm adapters.