Vijay

Called round for concrete prices today and asked a few potential suppliers about the L bars. They all said the same thing as Russell and say there's no exact time before it sets off as it depends on things like weather conditions and temps, but basically I have about a 2 hour window before the concrete isn't gonna like being disturbed.

On the subject of using what the PV generates during the day, what sort of usable output in watts would you likely get on a good and average day?

The plan is to use my new (old) 2.5t dumper and drop the concrete into the trench. It'll be all hands on deck to spread the concrete and I've got a concrete vibrator as well

I think the batten /timber idea could be the way to go but obviously if Russell is right, it would make life so much easier. I think it would make sense to speak to the concrete supplier to see what the window is for putting in the L bars or if timber battens is the way to go

Cheers for the replies. I think timber supports would be a mammoth task as I have at least 437 L bars over 131 linear metres (300 spacing). Even using string would need a trial beforehand I reckon as some of the spans are quite long and I'd imagine the string/cable would need supporting. What would the max span the support string/cable could be stretched too, holding L bars every 300mm without dipping?

That's exactly what I thought but wondered how long after the concrete is poured would it have set enough to support the L bars? I've attached a drawing of one of the foundation details

Hi Rich, Not sure what you mean by tied in? The footings are trench footings of 600 and 900 deep

I'll have over 400 L rebars to go into the concrete footings. They're 800x200 and have to sit 400 into the concrete and 400 out. I wondered how long I have to wait after the concrete pour is finished before I put them in the concrete? Cheers Vijay

Might help you decide http://forum.buildhub.org.uk/ipb/topic/1181-shed-suppliers/#comment-15444

One of my jobs this week is to finish a 12v pressure washer spray lance, to clean boots and tyres before they drive off site. I can just connect this to a car battery/lighter socket or a separate 12v battery that I can leave on site

Just wanted to say what a simple but genius idea, makes marking so much easier

Do you mean make the edge of the concrete slab thicker, so the last foot or so? Or more? how much thicker? I was going to put a drain across the front of the whole garage door/ floor

So it would be like underpinning that part of the floor?

Evening, Just working concrete amounts out and wondered what the point of doing foundations under a large garage door is? My garage door opening is around 5.6m wide and it seems a bit pointless unless it would be needed to support the floor slab? I understand it would be helpful if the garage was ever to be converted and the front had to be bricked up, but is that the only reason? Cheers Vijay

Make sure you pay with a credit card for the protection

Exactly what I've been told

Just an update. Spoke to HSE today and they confirmed what my architectural technician told me, that I do not need a PD as my house was already designed and approved. They told me to just put my name as the PD on the form.

Oh please don't get me wrong, what ever I believe won't stop me from following my H&S obligations

That's a fair point Nick

I know I'll get shot for saying this but being a 70's child I think H&S has gone a little crazy. I'm a firm believer in common sense goes a long way and if people haven't got that, then H&S is way over their heads anyway. Please believe me when I say I would never want or expect anyone to do anything unsafe just so I can have my house. Trades on my site will be a minimum as I plan to do a lot of the work myself.

I genuinely appreciate your thoughts but I believe it trying to understand as much as I can and asking question in order to understand. You can apply your blunt comment to pretty much everything in life until you learn

So what is the actual role of the principal designer with H&S? I've employed an architect to design a house and then another to do working drawings, I'm really confused why HSE still want them involved after that

Hi Peter, Sadly I thought I might have to What do you do if your architect declines? What's the reason for having the PD with health a safety?????

Evening, I'm trying to get my head around this by reading posts on here and I'm totally and utterly confused. Do I actually require it as UI read this on a post "You should only notify HSE if the work is scheduled to last longer than 30 working days and have more than 20 workers working simultaneously at any point on the project (OR is scheduled to exceed 500 person days of construction work). Any day on which construction work is carried out (including holidays and weekends) should be counted, even if the work on that day is of a short duration"???? If I do need it, is there an actual check list of requirements? I plan on managing my build and employing trades as I need/can afford them. From posts I have a few things listed: Insurance (including employers liability?) Toilets Hand washing Drinking water First aid including eye wash Personal protection equipment - Hi viz jackets, hard hats, eye and ear protection Fire extinguishers Paperwork for trades to sign which shows that I have explained any H&S required, contact details and insurance cover. Any help with this would be massively appreciated as I am at a complete loss with it. Vijay

Rich, I'm in the exact same position, building in ICF and don't really want a vent in my garage/workshop