Vijay
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Everything posted by Vijay
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Don't think marker spray will cut it. According to the ICF installation paperwork, foundations should be within a 6mm tolerance It would be difference in traditional blocks cos the mortar could take up any bigger gaps. The Polarwall system does have some allowance as I can cut the panels to fit, but it would make life far easier if I was able to get the concrete level bang on. I did see something where a guy suggested tapping in markers like nails or I was thinking something like wooden biscuits (like you use with a biscuit joiner)?
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Aiming a laser measure
Vijay replied to ToughButterCup's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Had this exact issue and found that shining the laser dot onto a flat red surface was the way to go as the dot will show up a hell of a lot better -
Hopefully gonna be finally pouring the foundations by next week and I need to have a pretty accurate finished level as I’m building in ICF, so how self levelling is RC30 concrete? . Do I need to have markers in the footings to see my levels as it’s poured? Would vibrating the concrete be a good idea to help the level? Cheers Vijay
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That looks to me more for public highways though, would the same apply to residential?
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Cheers JSHarris, would be great if they all worked to the same thing
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http://patiotiles.net/benefits-of-brick-tile-as-flooring http://www.tilemaze.com/thin brick tiles/
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Especially if you drink Guiness so I've been told!! lol
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I'm not splitting at IC1, it will be EITHER pipe 1 or 2, not both. The reason both are shown is there is an option and wondered which would be best
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Mike, I'm common from London, so I don't have a drawing room, there's only front and back rooms to me lol I didn't think about number 2, I'll have to look at the length of drainage pipe. What do you mean with number 4, don't split flows out?
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Cheers guys. It makes sense for me to call all the service providers and double check before I start. The PDF link is a great starting help though
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out of interest, if the meter box and local consumer box are in the garage, would it make a difference if the cable to the second consumer box is fed back under the floor or through the house? Also, would you just bring the main supply cable up through the floor of the garage and not through an external wall? I thought they preferred meters to be outside? (but that may have changed with smart meters?)
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I've confirmed with the BCO that he's happy for pipes to be within foundations as long as they are supported above with a lintel, but I'd happily move that IC a bit to find the best position on site. Yes, pipe 2 would get less traffic but I wondered if it was better so split things up between the 2 manholes as they are joined by 6" pipework. Yep, I didn't see the sense in having the loo on the other side of the drainage and having pipe running around the walls, sow they will be swapped over
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Hi Barney12, I've only looked at he manholes that were installed (red dots) and I didn't see why they they couldn't have as many as 5 inlets and 1 outlet (pic attached), 1 would run straight through and another 4 from the sides? I would use EITHER pipe 1 or 2, so wouldn't need both
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Looking at what I need in terms of service trenches - are they different depending where I live? I'm looking at gas, water, electricity, phone and an extra one (or 2) for lighting/gates/security etc.) Would that cover it? Would they all need to be ducted or can any be just run in a trench? Also can any share a duct/trench and what depths would they need to be? I'm sure I read on older posts that some service providers supplied free ducting, does anyone know if any do? Cheers Vijay
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I think I've sorted a drainage plan but before I run it past the BCO, could I have any thoughts on it. The blue dots are all the points where they rise through the floors and the yellow lines are the pipe runs. There are already 2 manholes (large red dots) where the pipes are already run and connected into the mains sewage. I have 2 inspection chambers (yellow dots) which then run onto the 2 manholes. I could run IC1 to either manhole (pipe 1 or 2), would it make a difference?
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Something like this? https://www.studor.net/maxi-vent
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Brilliant, thanks chaps
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Penny finally clicked! lol thanks guys. So, would the 50mm drainage pipe for an island run under the beam and block floor like the other drainage or would it be put say within the floor insulation?
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Cheers Peter. So you mean the actual 50mm pipe would go through the slab at 45 degrees? Would the 50mm drainage pipe for an island run under the beam and block floor like the other drainage or would it be put say within the floor insulation?
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Cheers Do you mean something like this for rodding access? http://www.buildbase.co.uk/hunter-soil-s309-110mm-grey-100008825-2811452 Sorry, do you mean 50mm is fine for the waste from a kitchen island?
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Morning, Just looking at my drainage runs and wondered a few things: My drainage runs are inside the envelope. Is there any reason I couldn't connect downstairs toilets to the stacks that drop down from upper floors? For a kitchen island, would that need it's own 110 waste pipe or could I run a 50mm waste pipe from the island and join it to the 110 waste pipe that serves the kitchen sink and utility room? Cheers Vijay
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Like that a lot Jamie!
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picture from the inside?
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Cheers guys. I will aim for a 150mm gap and go to 100mm where it's tight. Absolutely agree on the door stops as I know there will just be dents in the wall without them
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Hi Jamie, Not bothered about them being uniformed either, I just wondered if there was a minimum cos once a handle is on, want it to at least be open 90 degrees so you don't catch the handle while walking through
