Vijay

Exactly what I was told - apart from the knickers bit lol

Cheers Barney, found it at the same time

Found the answer although the BCO just wants 6" of concrete on top of the shingle rather than the pipe enclosed: Minimum cover over plastic drainage 600mm in fields/gardens 900mm beneath light roads/drives Minimum cover over clayware drainage 300mm in fields/gardens 400mm beneath light roads/drives Encasing in concrete: Note: If minimum cover cannot be acheived, the pipework will need to be encased in concrete. Any pipeline beneath a road that has less than 1000mm of cover, must also be encased - see diagram opposite. A full width/height movement joint consisting of 13mm compressible board is typically included at every joint, although this may be changed to every alternate joint in some cases. In many applications a so-called 'lean-mix' (something like a GEN1) concrete will be used for this work, but when there is concern about loading on the pipework, then a higher-strength C20 equivalent (FND2), or even stronger, concrete would be used.

I really can't get my head around the bit in part H where is shows the covering over 110mm plastic pipes (pages 17,18 and 19). BCO came round today and is happy with the drainage so far but he said I need to concrete over the shingle where I will be driving over - but I've wondered if he said that looking at the ground level at the moment rather than the finished ground level. Is there a minimum depth from FGL to the pipe that would require concrete or is it standard practice to concrete over the shingle no matter how much backfill is on top of the drainage pipe where it will be driven over?

and plastic conduit is easy to bend apparently

Waiting on the model number and power rating. I believe the heater might be diesel

Looking on Ebay, they do digital ones but prices vary from £300 to over a thousand. I'm looking at a 3 phase steam pressure washer now and don't want to get it if it can't be used...............

The only disadvantage I can possibly see is if I get any 3 phase stuff, I have to keep the supply to use it - unless the 3 phase to single phase converters are any good?

I don't expect a large demand or own any 3 phase equipment, but as with everything, I'm trying to future proof. I was quoted approx. an extra £150 to get 3 phase installed, so I'm thinking it might be worth it cos then it's there if I ever want it? I don't think I'll have enough roof space in the right direction to extend the renewables but I wasn't planning to export anyway due to having to have the accredited fitting charges

I've done a search but only 1 short thread came up so I assume not many have bothered, but is there good reason to get a 3 phase supply installed? There's not much in it for the initial connection, but what downfalls are there for day to day usage? My DNO has said I can meter it art single phase or downgrade at a later time, but how would the effect the actual supply costs and availability? Any advice would be appreciated Vijay

Just saw this on a link and thought I'd post it, could help with air tightness for waste pipes through walls? http://pipesnug.co.uk/

TP just use the same tactics as everyone else, set a high list price so they can give you a big discount - doesn't mean they'll be cheap though

Yep that looks perfect. I've messaged them for a quote (reckon I should be worried when a website doesn't show prices!! lol) That gel only mentions water though. I got the impression it was the radon he was concerned about..................

Openreach guy came round today and was pretty helpful. He wasn't too happy that I want to bring the ducting under the B&B floor and into the under stair cupboard. His issue is any gas or water coming through the duct into the house. He said they normally use a resin on an outside pipe but we have radon gas and I would therefor need a duct cap that can seal any gases. Has anyone come across this issue? Cheers Vijay

Pretty sure I've read plenty of times to not bother with solar thermal and instead go for solar PV which can obviously supply you electricity which you can use anywhere, including an immersion heater to do your hot water

Totally agree, blocked drains could happen to anyone. Felt sorry for her when the remedial works have been going on for years though - must drive them mad each and every day to open their curtains to that every morning

Ch5 2 parter starts tomorrow night

If it's just to weather, then I'd go for the easiest option which would be to cover it with torch on felt or as suggested, a piece of sheet metal stuck on

Yeah in some places I need to have a 200mm wall but it doesn't make sense to build a 9m long wall at 200mm wide where I only need 200mm in a few places - so the idea is to build the whole wall at 100mm wide and double it only where I need it, as it's only to support a floor beam. Thanks Declan Yeah in some places I need to have a 200mm wall but it doesn't make sense to build a 9m long wall at 200mm wide where I only need 200mm in a few places - so the idea is to build the whole wall at 100mm wide and double it only where I need it, as it's only to support a floor beam. Thanks Declan. Plan is to use a Thermomax board for the thermal break and then I'll carry in in lighter 7n block

I see, so more of a gradual junction than a 90 degree

So where would you use a solid concrete block and where would you use a lightweight concrete block - both 7n? What's the point of the heavier solid block when the lightweight will do? is it just cos it's slightly cheaper??

Worked out I've got just over 40m of sleeper/internal rising walls which is approx 94 blocks. Do you think it would be quicker to lay 188 blocks and 188 bricks or 94 blocks (upright) and a course (188) of engineering/coursing bricks which would give me 300mm and cut down and blocks where I need to?

Yeah he didn't want any sort of backdrop. At least I have things in writing so if I do have any future issues, I can go back to them...... Just out of interest, why wouldn't you bury an equal T like that, is it not buried how ever you use one??

Very!!!

Where abouts are you in the country Pete? Maybe it's a provider thing?