Vijay

Deffo 19mm and I don't see how I can change it unless the whole handle is changed

I'll measure it tomorrow to make sure

I tried really light pressure and it still did the same mate From what I can tell online, it's a 19mm wheel

What are your thoughts on this cut with the Sigma? I can't use the cut tiles like this

Guys, how clean of a cut should I be getting with this Sigma cutter? Cutting 8mm wall tiles, the tiles just aren't cutting cleanly, edges are raggedy and I'm ending up using a wetsaw to clean up the edges. Really not impressed with a £300 bit of kit

Starting using this cutter and having an issue. Scores fine but won't break evenly along the score line, the cut breaks off sideways. Spoke to the supplier which says it's down to the tiles, which are from Wickes https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Amaro-Linen-Porcelain-Wall+Floor-Tile---615-x-308mm/p/153690 they are slightly rippled which you can see in the pics. Anyone have any advice with this situation? I tried scoring a few times but still didn't break cleanly

Finally will be tiling my parents shower room soon and wondered what the general view of tile adhesive is. I'm not using the premade stuff but will be using the bagged powder adhesive and the standard set stuff (not rapid). So I wondered are they all the same or should I be using a specific type for a shower room? I guess flexible is a must I'll be tiling onto a cement backed foam jakoboard and also a shower former. Everything has been tanked with the Everbuild stuff. Cheers Vijay

Ended up ordering the slightly larger Sigma 3C3M model

Right, based on what you guys have said I'm looking at a Sigma. There is the 3B4 and 3B4M which I believe the 3B4 is a pull action and the M(max) is a push version (and slightly smaller cutting dimensions). From you experienced tilers, is a pull or push action better? The guy online said to go for a push action as it's what is used more and is more natural - but that could be cos he only had that one in stock lol

Had a look at them and there seems to be different models, any suggestions on which model/series?

The problem with one of those is needing to cut outside I guess, that's a lot of up and down the stairs lol

Need to buy one and a mate has suggested this one https://www.toolstation.com/qep-big-clinker-heavy-duty-tile-cutter/p15705 Just wondered if anyone has used that one or any other recommendations? Cheers

thanks guys

@Onoff it does have a hex fitting at the furthest end down the threaded pip but read it's not supposed to come out and looks like an odd size allen key (too big for my normal set but can try a radiator valve allen key tomorrow). Did you have to force it out? @Nickfromwales Cheers Nick, will definitely take it into account. Could easily solder a brass nut onto the back of the plate if I needed to to help with any turning/holding in place needed. Would then screw it in place into the 22mm board

Wondering if anyone has had this issue and what they did. Fitting one of these hose outlets https://www.toolstation.com/p93973?store=LB&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&&mkwid=s_dc&pcrid=515847200345&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5JSLBhCxARIsAHgO2SdLkzo2BexCKgb9-rdLRJ2gzT2WykYvKv7Thjodf5srWSGu7COfl2YaAoI8EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds My timber stud wall is covered with a 10mm Jackoboard plano board and then a 9mm tile (so I've presumed 15mm with adhesive), so 25mm in total. As you can see in the pics, the whole brass thread is about 37mm without the backnut and 25mm if used with the backnut. So not sure how that would work as I need to fit into a 1/2" backplate. My plan was to fix a 22mm board behind the Jackoboard and use a fixing support and then use a standard rear entry backplate but that only has 30mm female thread. Would it matter if the female thread doesn't protrude further than the face of the tile? I'm concerned that water could get in and behind the outlet. Would also think of doing the same thing with the main rainfall shower outlet too. Cheers Vijay

what's his reasoning?

That would be brilliant guys. So would you just run the blade down/along the clamped straight edge or is there an attachment? (don't think it would be too difficult to make one up if need be) Very quick google search - https://www.northantstools.co.uk/product/montolit-tutorcut-universal-guide-for-angle-grinders?gclid=CjwKCAjw7--KBhAMEiwAxfpkWBiQk_OWQNK_Z2oKsMoc4_deQjQiyA2cIE0XTqkqWoXdUkXv0aYzMxoCWvUQAvD_BwE Or https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/heres-a-cheap-but-very-effective-method-of-cutting-large-tiles-for-e-g-envelope-cut-showers.537430/

May have some 800mm tiles that'll I need to cut. Contemplating buying a tile cutter for it but probably only got 10-15 cuts, so wondered if I could get away with an angle grinder and diamond blade or will it look crap? Any tips or recommendations on a tile cutter would massively be appreciated. Maybe something like this? https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-cc301dwae-12v-2-0ah-li-ion-cxt-cordless-glass-tile-cutter/527fg Cheers Vijay

This is my next job at my parents bathroom and just wondered if the Everbuild Aquaseal system is still a good system to use? https://www.everbuild.co.uk/products/tiling/wet-room-system/aquaseal-wet-room-system-tanking-kit/ or am I better off buying the individual components? I'll be going onto a Jackoboard tile backer boards (polystyrene with cement outer layers). Cheers Vijay

Pretty sure CT1 can be used with mirrors. Might be worth an email to the manufacturer to confirm

lol I know, I need to get this finished so I can back my build!!!

yeah there'll be at least 5mm movement with copper and I hope to be within that lol Not opposed to using HEP20, just new and as I said, just the fact it would be a few fittings and bulk to go from the 3/4 to 15mm pipe at a right angle

Thanks for all the pics guys, genuinly helps to visualize stuff. Yeah trying to work that out today and even more difficult to do when the tiles haven't been chosen. I allowed approx 15mm for tile and adhesive but I also took on board what you said about being able to pack it out slightly if needed. I'm happy to use copper, always have. The only think that's kinda putting me off Hep20 at the moment is I would have to use a few fittings to come out of the valve at a right angle and get down to 15mm, but I do like the idea of the fittings being able to rotate..... Noticed the insulation on the walls, is it worth it on a 9" party wall that's studded out about 40 odd mm?

I've used the Tam105 pump but I believe this is the replacement for it https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-bip1000-1-electric-water-pump/?da=1&TC=GS-051011330&gclid=CjwKCAjwgviIBhBkEiwA10D2jyB8AXfQ5YbSNAtXoDgwmghtTgqZUn-fRFzmsCc73Bk62sw9H7DFvRoC7kQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

You could use something like a Clarke Tam pump which I've used for various things over the years. Once primed, they will pump no probs what so ever and are pretty hardy. Only issue would be having some sort of pressure/flow switch needed in the pipework to turn the pump on and off