LA3222

I believe (been a while since I was looking at this in depth) that item 22 you refer to is that copper pipe on left of the cylinder with the AAV on. Don't get sucked into making this more complicated than it needs. A pre plumbed cylinder makes all of this far easier as it's all there. IIRC all the items within the dotted line on the schematic come prefitted except the expansion vessel which is supplied. As I said earlier, if you want cooling its just a dip switch. I stuck a 100l buffer between the ASHP and UFH. If your emitters can take the same temp then no need for multiple zones - run it all at same temp from a buffer tank. You may want to check though as condensation can be an issue for rads, not so much with UFH. As suggested UFH upstairs is better than rads for the condensation issue.

I think you are missing the point here. Your comments on the schematic are valid and I don't dispute that. My point, is that the question is moot. The OP is asking about the use and suitability of the Alto schematic when they have a preplumbed cylinder and matching Ecodan ASHP. The question does not warrant an answer. The OP should instead be informed that the component parts required are all fitted to the cylinder when it arrives and the connecting of said system should be carried out in accordance with the mitsubishi MIs and not the Alto schematic. The question is probably, what is the OPs intention for the OP which may bear relevance. Without digging my MIs out I am sure that two zone connections are covered in their. I would hazard that the best starting point would be the mitsubishi MIs rather than the Alto drawing.

I think the key point in this story is that the cylinder mentioned by the OP is pre-plumbed. Doesn't matter what schematic they dig up from the Web. All the parts are there and fitted. Just need to connect ASHP to flow/return on the cylinder. Then connect hot and cold feeds to cylinder and the expansion tank which is supplied loose. Job done. @jfb the only schematic you need is the Ecodan one showing how to connect it all. Cooling mode is just a dip switch on the FTC board.

I disagree with you in a lot of ways as to the cause. Consumer spending absolutely plays a big part, all the COVID money saved up, now being spent at a time when supply chains collapsed played a big part and still does. The war is the other half of the story. Interest can impact on some of that but not the other. It's a complicated soup and there is no silver bullet. I suspect the only thing that will 'fix' it long term will involve Joe public sucking it up and taking the hit, all the while Shell, BP etc will continue to announce records profits. Sucks ass but seems to be the way the world works.

Have you tried raising a case with the Solar Edge support team? I was having an issue configuring mine when I got it all powered up, contacted them and they sorted it all remotely once I gave them the S/N of the invertor.

I used pallet then put osb sheet over top followed by some free lino. Whatever you do, don't waste any more money, time and effort than you need to. Worth doing absolutely but it's also temporary and you have bigger fish to fry.

Good to see you are planning ahead...I assumed the missus wouldn't change her mind and didn't bother. Soon found myself going at a concrete slab with an sds. Not fun.

Just been looking at this a bit more online, not sure if they have tweaked the wording slightly which entirely changes the context. I found a document which says "Upon completion of the work, the Approved Inspector will issue what is known as the ‘final certificate’ to the local authority and applicant, confirming that the work in the initial notice is complete and that the inspector is satisfied that it complies with the building regulations requirements" and "A completion certificate (or ‘final certificate’ if process by an Approved Inspector) issued within 8 weeks of completion of the approved building work as long as it complies with building " The email sent to yourself @Triassic suggests you have to complete within 8 weeks of occupation. The wording I found suggests they have to issue you a certificate withing 8 weeks after completion. Two different things I think.

Are you using council BCO? This concerns me - I have a private firm contracted, not had them round in ages and don't intend to until I am ready to complete. The house 'may' be occupied😬

I agree with the previous post, MCS or any scheme whereby the Government incentivises installation leads to one thing, a plethora of individuals eager to take a seat at the gravy rain and milk it for all its worth. This is clearly evidenced by the massive decline in mcs installers for solar knocking around nowadays. FIT went.and the hoardes of installers went with it. There may well be some good.ens.out there however the well is overwhelmingly poisoned by all the others creaming thousands at a time by front loading the cost of installation. There is absolutely nothing difficult about PV installation. The prices charged are shocking.

I havent done anything that many others on here hadn't already done. The only slight difference in my setup is that I advocate for FF UFH in order to increase the ability to cool the house. Other than exposed pipes in the plant room (nothing is insulated yet), I cant see condensation/mould being an issue. If you were to use radiators then that would pose a problem. UFH pipes in a slab, nah.

I think that getting rid of first floor UFH would be a mistake. Folks are always harping on about not needing it as there is no heating requirement for a well insulated house. Time and again I bang the drum for the cooling aspect. With first floor UFH you are doubling the surface area which you can cool with. Any installer that says you can't run an ASHP like that is talking crap. End of. My floor area is approx 140m2, double it and I have 280m2 of UFH pipes available to me. I run the ASHP in cooling node from around 9am to 6pm only on days where it is around 23 degrees and above outside. My house is not hot. It works. I thought it was quite cool.today given it was supposed to be hottest day of the year, went outside around 3pm to fix kids bike tyre - bloody boiling outside. When I went back in, nice and comfortably cool. My ASHP cools to 12 degrees, by time it hits the manifold it goes around house at about 15 degrees. Slight condensation on a few pipes in plant room, nothing anywhere else. Job. Done.

This is starting to remind me of a 'zoot' thread🥷

My ASHP is an Ecodan and gets the water temp up to 55 fine without using the immersion. I can't see what has 'physically' been done to cause you this issue, my gut instinct is that something is not quite right with your settings in the FTC controller. A good read and familiarisation of the manual will help you to scroll through it all.

*Glitch in the matrix🥷

Ha, think you may have your wires crossed there chief. I do wear seatbelts and do get vaccinated - not much choice with the vax, job means I have to be jabbed up. I think we get a bit hysterical on here sometimes. The OP was just talking about the roof work initially, it digressed into the electrical side and before you know it Bruce Willis is hitting a ride into space to blow up an asteroid that's about to wipe us out. Yes there are dangers, there are dangers with a lot of stuff in life. Let's be calm though, articulate the concerns/crocodiles that folk need to be aware of and move on with our lives🤷‍♂️ No need to blow this up into anything more than what it is.

A bit smug for some reason. Why would anyone disconnect/connect MC4 connectors when under load? If someone tries to use an AC isolator for DC then I wouldn't give them advice at all in anything on here as they clearly fell at the first hurdle. Installing PV is no more dangerous than anything else in life, provided you are aware of and account for the specific risks associated with the task. Work safely and you will be fine. Cut corners and maybe you will, maybe you won't🤷‍♂️ The same principle applies to life in general.

Most of the cables will run up and down bud rather than across so I wouldn't worry about the gaps. I did them and wasted a lot of time and effort doing so. As far as tacking the cables, no need. They will.stay put in the 'safe zone' - the cables are fairly rigid to be fair.

I'm pretty much with you on this. I wired up all my panels myself, you would have to be doing something very wrong to get a shock. It's easy to do and as long as you are careful I'm not sure what the issue is🤷‍♂️

You got a link to that ebay unit bud, may have to look into the use of a FCU for cooling of the bedrooms.

@nodyou said the work was ok. Now you are changing the narrative and back pedalling to suggest the work was crap. The setting out was crap but the work was ok were your words. If a bloke dies a day's work at Tesco do you think they can get away with not paying? Your first post on this matter suggests that the real issue seems to be that they need supervision to make sure all us where it should be. You don't say anything about being given the opportunity to 'make good' because from what you say, the work was ok once it was done. Now you are harping on about the work being crap. You are back pedalling to justify your mate being a tool and not paying people fir their toil. This sort of thing really p**ses me off. If the work was good, pay the man - even if you don't want to use them again. What the hell does this change. My point was that the bloke is clearly not going to take legal action as its more hassle/not worth it for a days wage. So your mate gets away with, probably not the first time either. My old dear is self employed in the care sector, she gets this sort of crap time and again where employers rip her off but she never takes legal action because it would cost her initially and the burden of proof lies with her. When she has a job on paying the bills, the time and effort for legal vs the reward ain't worth it so they get away with it time and time again - same situation for the bricky. The brickie took the only option he probably thought available to him. I have/am building. Living in it now thanks. Not once have I refused payment - had to get brickie to redo some bits, we sorted it out and another trade I 'adjusted' their days pay once - long story. I explained why to them, probably weren't happy but they still turned up the next week.

Your words. See OPs words. Absolutely. Put yourself in the shoes of a young, jobbing, tradesmen. Do you really think they have the wherewithal to take legal action. Nope. So in this scenario all the power lies with the employer - how many times has he done this before? He did a job and the work was ok. Maybe he didn't work as well or as fast as desired.but the work was ok. Why the hell.should he be denied a wage for that? Something. But to pay nothing and tell him to do one, that takes the piss. As we see, the outcome was probably the fruit of frustration, anger at a perceived injustice and feeling powerless to do.anything other than to vandalise the work. Me with a well paid job, absolutely I'd take legal action. Me living hand mouth and being ripped (maybe not the first time) off with no conceivable recourse, I'd do what was done.

So the bloke did a days work, your mate weren't happy and refused to pay him. You said the work was OK. Where does your mate get off thinking he can treat people like that and there be no comeback. I'd have done exactly the same as the bricky.

Should have paid him then.

Shouldn't need F Gas for an ASHP - air con yeah, but not an ASHP. Will need G3 if you have an UVC.