Nickfromwales

48's fine for the mixer. The nuts, olives and inserts will separate from the unions, and then you fit the unions to the new unit, and then simply screw the nuts and pipe back on.

Nope! Proceed to the CT1 shop this exact minute and deviate-ye-not from'th the plan. Don't worry about taking it apart again afterwards, because if you're at that point then the CT1 behind a few things will be the very least of your worries

Some of the big sheds are cheap for plaster / plasterboards / insulation etc. You just have to keep doing the legwork if you want to save £££, but sometimes you just don't have enough hours in a day to be splitting smaller hairs. If there are big chunks of stuff, then email it off for a quote as early on as you can to get some yardsticks.

Don't use a gypsum screed, use Cemfloor instead and then no need to feck about taking off what you just paid to put down

Indeed, lol. That's if the NHS outlives the gas supply.......

With my knees I'll be signing up at Dignitas at 65 😆

That was my idea for that setup. Not pretty on paper so to speak, but did what they guy asked me to. Lower temp (it was a PH MBC job) heating was peeled from the TS on a lower set of tappings; the pipes running low behind the cardboard boxes. Telford made the cylinder entirely bespoke, and sprayed something like 100-120mm of foam (hence it doesn't have the usual posh dinner jacket), as it was a higher temp store in a PH, so wanted to reduce latent losses. High level temp probe pocket for the boiler to kick in ASAP, not the greatest, but with the volume of water in the TS to use for some elasticity it didn't go crazy on short-cycling, so afaic a plenty good enough design / arrangement.

Have you tried Pasquill? https://pasquill.co.uk/ They've been very helpful with a current project. One designer says the job (now borderline fully committed EnerPHit affair) is entirely unique in their companies history......but together we cracked it out; the job (with a few tweaks left to iron out) is good as gold now. When I rang to make some adaptations to the installed roof, so we could tweak the splays on the rooflights, the guy I spoke to said he's still in therapy

How soon (actually) before the OP has to worry about gas disappearing.........altogether? Prob not in my lifetime, and I'm 51. Or at least when it does I will be too old to give a shit.

Not at all.

@TerryE You reminded me above you have HA. So will be simple for you to dial in some extra on / off prompts? You can dial in remotely from Greece lol. 😜

The primary issue @TerryE is the short duty of the pump as running for only a couple/few months max means these stagnate and ‘stick’ quite annoyingly. I had 3x UPM3’s do exactly this on a very high spec (£3.8m) PH+ project and I couldn’t work it out. Had to drive to West Sussex 3 times to get them all spinning again (manual strip down and spin with a pliers). Major unwanted cost to me, and a big piss me off!! Eventually I realised these pumps do NOT like sitting still. Solution there was a Shelley which was set to spin the pump for 60 seconds at 03:00 on the first day of each month. Had to use one per, to keep the switch lives apart. No issues since. Just so bloody much to think about with PH; pros / cons / caveats / gotcha’s etc. #livingandlearning

Conversely, I think this is where it shines!! You have hands and fingers, and a molecule of air will get through gaps you can't even think there is a gap, ergo you can't get everywhere so I would reconsider. You'll notice this a bit lol. Just give it time, and I'll wear you down .

https://www.dortechdirect.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/3337.html?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17178602520&gbraid=0AAAAADt-Kn3UBXyOZR0vEG_JM_vZTmbQs&gclid=CjwKCAjw_-3GBhAYEiwAjh9fUK0DFMamvrz5o04Rdcyabesg7HS5_9qpOjUeEjy5SmbMj_yq1AzzWRoCY1wQAvD_BwE

I did as you ask in a house in Oxford, way back when first dabbling in the new works of building “not shit” houses; this was my first sample of an MBC PH dwelling. Client remit was to be able to have 4 reasonable showers at the same time, without notable dips in performance. Did it, and client was happy. Left is a 300L cold mains accumulator, and right is a 500L thermal store with a 28mm cold in / hot out instantaneous DHW coil (high flow / efficiency by design, courtesy of Telford bespoke offerings). Behind there is the utility room when I hid a 37kw Vaillant 637 system boiler, so when the TS called for heat it got it. This system literally can provide continuous DHW, but the caveat is that the accumulator will eventually deplete. I suggested a 500L acc’r but client said they’d see how the 300L one performed; no issues afaik.

Would still struggle methinks. It may ‘work’ but it won’t do as the op asks.

But you’ve failed to comment on how good it smells?

I like a challenge, but not one that requires 100% of my available life force. I wish you well on your renovation, and please keep us updated as you progress in accordance with your architects guidance. Are you aware of the retrofit / new build airtightness system from AeroBarrier? May be a good fit for you, to get into any missed nooks & crannies; that’s dependant on what stage you’re at.

I'm saying that the block can go, and the step can be reduced. Is there insulation under that small section of what appears to be a flat roof? Lots of info helps get better replies, so sorry if I'm assuming it does. Hard to tell from the pic what's actually in front of the 'step'.

Our pleasure, lol.

So in effect, a continually 'sucking' chimney that pulls freezing cold air through at a much higher rate of knots, by convection, all winter. I'd have thought that would be the opposite of energy efficient? All I do on a day-to-day basis is >95% PassivHaus standards and above. Current project is borderline EnerPHit refurb, so you've no fear of me 'not getting it' . BCO standards will be severely lower than EnerPHit standards, so I doubt you have anything resembling a hurdle to leap over in that respect; most BCO's simply gawp and quiz when they are on site, typically seeing the types of projects I do for a living for the very first time!! Great that they're inquisitive, terrifying that they do not know much at all about true energy efficient build methodology. My point being, you can invest this time and money on air tightness and reap much bigger rewards, vs microscopic boost on something which takes a huge amount of time / effort for very little measurable gain. Investing smartly in the correct way, for the maximum sensible reward, is actually the fundamental 'job description' . 6mm marmox boards over the tops of the joists, below the floorboards, would be easier and give far better uplift in the floor spec. The joints can be taped and the periphery foam sealed to the masonry with FM330 foam to significantly add to the airtightness of the floor, plus the XPS will be plenty good enough for killing off the repeat cold bridging. Your architects ideas are seemingly innovative, but in practicality are pretty dire. A permanently chilled chimney breast, over two stories, fed from a perpetual influx of damp cold air from outdoors to the under-floor void would be the opposite of my advice. The architect should be advising you to close these chimneys off 100%?!

None whatsoever. Done so many core holes through masonry I simply cannot remember the number!! Whether you choose to open the can of worms by asking the neighbours permission is up to you.... IIRC a 127mm diamond core drill leaves you a hole which allows the knuckle of the pipe fittings to set into the wall, so look to hire / buy at that size. Measure the fittings as some manufacturers have smaller knuckles, and some are much 'fatter', requiring bigger holes. Be sure to seal the external hole with sand/cement mortar, and the internal one with foam; if a cheap BM foam then do not let it ooze out into the cavity (less is more!!) and just seal a few inches in. You will need a 105mm hole high up too, as the space for the new loo will need extraction for B regs compliance.

I've installed loads of mirrors with it, with zero issue. Can't see why not, and it's less aggressive so doesn't react with things the way silicone seems to. Plus, CT1 can be painted whereas silicone cannot.

Get rid of that block kicker wall and replace in Marmox? That will give you height and insulation in one product, vs trying to insulate over a cold block. https://www.tilefixdirect.com/marmox-thermoblock-load-bearing-thermal-insulation-block-100mm-140mm-sizes/?sku=MXTHERM100&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20339692481&gbraid=0AAAAAD4kYe83bkF1nlWN7wup5I8-8mnFJ&gclid=CjwKCAjwuePGBhBZEiwAIGCVS1_y7lij0zE5CX-P_-XA50nzCox6eHe0feq1-MVu5MwkQvw0s9k_8xoCJxkQAvD_BwE

Is the floor heated?