Nickfromwales

You could just slide the RCD over and that would get you front of house earth protection for every circuit. I thoroughly dislike split load boards.

I thought the Tennents Larger had seen him off tbf. lol. I use the ‘super’ version to run my mower.

That’s what MCS is all about, making sure you can’t go buying cheap (non suitable) fixings and miss-matching metals that eat each other. They give strict methodology for fixing panels to roofs, so they stay there and can’t fly off and kill someone.

Over the volume of area, repeated, it would be perfectly fine afaic. The factory paint on these things is all marine grade.

@David001 The movement in the tiles is likely due to the subfloor (timber) having been routinely saturated, with frequent use of a failed (leaking) shower deck. It is very likely this needs to be cut out and replaced with new, to make this problem go away. Is this still visible from the patch repair down below? The hidden bowl speaks volumes of how ignorant the previous owners were, and how they had continued to knowingly use this whilst it was leaking. If you can get any pics of the underside that would be helpful, but I doubt it changes the hard facts. This is Donald Ducked.

@Alan Ambrose I'm a positive guy, but let’s be honest???? Tiles are moving / loose!! Read that above, again, and realise that this is too far beyond a band aid.

Neat maybe, but not a good job. The floor should have been built up with min 6mm plywood so the tiles would stay stuck down. As the tiles haven’t been given anything to hold firmly to, they’re just going to keep popping. Thos is zero to do with plumbing / waste / drain, the waters simply tracking through all the fractures in the grout etc, and there’s your leak. It just needs doing properly. Anything else will fail; “what will happen if I go sticking good tiles over loose ones?” is self explanatory. Please don’t waste good time and money doing this…..it will never work. What you could do, if you get a good installer, is remove the tiles in one piece(s) and relay them once the floors sorted. Not easy, and is a pita to do well.

Nope. Just a suicide mission tbh. ”Short cuts take 3 times longer”. Fact. Why are you scared of taking the floor up? This is an issue you can’t slide left / right, you need to resolve it and do it correctly, then it'll last decades.

Yup, but I guess there’s some long term savings if you can afford to invest significantly in renewable solutions (boosted ROI by getting closer to 100% self consumption etc). Defo a high, constant draw, as it’s resistive heating. The heater would be on pretty much 100% of time the unit is supplying input air during winter. @Gone West, do you have any kind of thermostatic or timed control over the post heater, or do you just let it ‘do its thing’? I’d still bend over backwards to get MVHR installed.

These can be used for sure, just the electric bill to take into consideration as a part of the space heating costs.

2hrs is getting off lightly lol. Frustrating though.

Just make sure you use protection, ok.

Easy, tiger. It's OK that we can see other people

Been on a few 'long' days myself the last few weeks...... Just about everything hurts now...... Joy.

Erm..... deja-vu?

A bit of rockwool stuffed down as a plug, to stop the foam going too far down, and a squirt of FM330 = job done.

Good to see you're not bitter

100a D/C eg that's the charge current after rectification, is my guess.

No need for the inconvenience of a boxed in stub-stack. If the invert to the drains outside is <1300mm you don't need an AAV (Air Admittance Valve (aka a Durgo)), so the 110mm connection can be capped off below FFL and uncovered later in life; no need for any compromise on GIA this way Picture how the room could transform, and put hot & cold pipes in there, behind the plasterboard, in abeyance. No need to connect them and fill them with water, but defo a cheap bit of insurance that would minimise upheaval downstream. Also look to making that room it's own 32a ring main, and if going for MVHR then put a redundant run in for extract too.

No heat recovery, and a lot of cold air infiltration over the winter.

I’ve been doing these types of rooms for nearly 30 years, and I think, judging by the threshold trim, the subfloor hasn’t been overlaid with plywood or other binder board. Can you pull back the carpet and see if the tiles are, as I suspect, glued down directly to the chipboard flooring? Tiles and adhesive will be around 15mm on average. Oh, and pop down the off-license and get some of the good stuff, as this will 100% need taking up and doing again. Don’t waste any more of your beer funds on rescue products, (sorry).

Defo the least dusty option. But tbh if you just chisel with a 2kg SDS drill with a narrow chisel bit, there’s just debris but not much dust.

Yup. @Spinny If you can record cable positions, then YOU dictate to the plasterer, not the other way around!! Tell him you are fine cutting out after he’s skimmed it, as you are now all grown up and can make such choices. Bonkers?! WRT the door reveal, that’s doable re stop / start of plastering. The mess is something in your control, so just lay 2 layers of Antinox sheets in the area that needs plastering later on, taping joints with duct tape. Then put cloth dust sheets down so any wet skim gets dried out nearly immediately making it less likely to be spread about. Plasterer sounds like a clown tbh.

Local BM should be able to order similar in for you.

Chop it in half and double it up.