Nickfromwales

Happy days 🍻

You lazy bar steward.

100%. A true monoblock should be ready to rock and roll out of the box. Still very impressed with Panasonics J series stuff for the money. Crazy quiet and just a joy for its plug & play simplicity.

That’s excellent news However. Your advisory bill is now calculated at £7,366.00. Please send cash only. And don’t say anything to the others as I would rather they didn’t know

Yup. It’s doing an automatic “purge” of the air. One of WB more annoying features as when we were all tired and fed up after fitting the bastard things we had to wait for “it” to “decide” when we could go home lol. Sit and wait. Won’t be long !

Great perspective, thanks.

For wool yes, not heard of issues with EPS beads?

Spend the money blowing the cavities full of bonded beads. Very slim returns vs the time / money / disruption, and trying to make it look like it hasn’t been done. Of EWI isn’t done meticulously then you’ll be worse off than you are now. Lots of council done dwellings now complaining about huge damp issue; black walls / wallpaper peeling away etc. This is just not a candidate for a readily priced / achieved EWI installation, which you need to be able to justify costs vs ROI.

@Pt1987 👆👍

Pointless putting the solar in the shade?! Plus…. I was curious. 🧐. So “there”.

If it freezes, the joints all pop off everywhere and it loses pressure, ergo, it won’t start back up due to it then locking out.

It is now I’ve edited it ffs. This poxy phone writes what it wants to. (expletive deleted) my version off, why don’t you ?!?! Id be happy to go back to scratching this all into a bit of slate. Rant almost over ……

Yup. 👍. Put some jointing compound on the faces that meet together of the two parts, and a little on the threads. Joints should tighten smoothly, and not squeak like brass on brass does when dry. I’d drain down and take your time to do the repair. Prob only adds 2-3 hrs more messing around but a more relaxed job then

For completeness, I wouldn't go for the Comfopost as it's a basic item in a very pretty box. Simple and effective options are out there, for far less money.

Easily dismissed, but I accept the caution here. If your MVHR is sucking in cold air over the winter, and you bought a half-decent MVHR unit, then the 1kw pulse-heater will be going most of the time. This uses direct electricity on demand. If the ASHP is providing space heating regardless, then why would you not use that (very cost-effective) source of heat energy to off-set the cold incoming air temp?

Or that you do less plumbing than me, lol.

Nope. I used glycol in a system I installed for a client in Oxon. Zero issues, no antifreeze valves, been running fine since 2022. Would happily use again. Caveat emptor, I have installed almost nothing but Stiebel Eltron since that job (only two others were Panasonic / Glycol) and S.E. designers say there's no need for Glycol in their systems.

It would, if we knew where due South was

Any reason that your plant room is huge?

He looks completely infectious... lol I'll belay watching that.

Who's the tiny man holding the big stick?

Indeed. My words are blunt, but honest. Good man.

No need for the olives, yet, as I hope the one you have on the pipe will be ok to save with the PTFE tape. You will need to test the repair and new valve for a few days, and then drain down a little to put 1x new inhibitor chemical in, but don't put that in until you know you do not have to drain down again, or that goes in the bin and you have to buy more. LINK This is a corrosion protection chemical which goes into the system and stays there for life.

When the pressure is zero on the boiler gauge, the system and radiators will still be nearly 100% full, if they are not on the next floor up above the boiler. You need to drain down the radiator you’re working on. Get one of these LINK and a radiator key LINK to open the vent at the top of the radiator. Until you open that, the water will stay in the radiator on vacuum. Drain out until there’s no more water to come out. Then fit the new valve. You need to get some PTFE tape LINK to go around the olive on the pipe (where you fear you’ve ’broken’ the pipe). You know when you’ve done this as the leak goes from bad to very bad. Applying this tape (10 turns) is to cover you from the olive having been crushed a little too much by over tightening with a spanner. Smear some jointing compound over the threads, over the olive (after tape) and this will mean you get a good seal without having to go Hulk on the spanner again. For the next tightening up, go easy, and try it first. Then go tighter just a 1/4 turn at a time if a small leak begins to show. The you close the vent at the top of the radiator. Then you go to the boiler and test fill the system back up to 1.5 bar on the gauge to check for leaks. If all good after 30 minutes, then bleed the radiator vent to get the air out. Then top the pressure back up (letting air out will make the pressure drop again on the boiler gauge) and run the radiators up to max temp for 30 mins and keep checking. If all good, select a nice shirt and get to the pub to celebrate. 🍾

Yes