Nickfromwales

What’s wrong with the ‘copper technique’, all looks good to me!

Ah. It’s supposed to be 1.5bar max as that’s the heating circuit. At >3bar the valve is doing what it’s supposed to have done, eg open to relieve the excess pressure, so no problem there. Just refill to 1.5bar and check again.

Odd. Well, the waters coming from somewhere, so the question is; if the heating system’s not been filed why is the heating expansion vessel letting water out?! The gauge appears to be on zero, and I can’t see another feed teed into the pipe? Is that correct?

I think it would be fairer to say these aren’t good in general; BPC sell these but so do a lot of other companies / suppliers.

Rads twice the size, basically. Plus bigger pipe sizing for distribution to rads.

Reducing airflow reduces (attenuates) sound. A bit is lost in translation there imo, and attenuation (true) should begin at the point it's (the offending noise) created, eg at source.

But these are for controlling flow rates, not for acoustic attenuation? The issue seems to be at source, so needs resolving before getting into the distribution ductwork?

I've always stayed as far away from rigid ducting as possible, and ALWAYS used the box attenuators. Never a single issue, so I'll carry on with these and semi-rigid radial ducting.

Yea, at that point I'd just replace the CU, and enjoy a bit of future-proofing.

Have you asked if a flitch beam will suffice? You can just top that with XPS or Compacfoam, and the cold bridging will be far less of an issue.

Depends if a reseller has nipped to PoundLand for some watered down piss-poor paint, to make it shiny to sell on.

OP can change to 'all RCD' without spending any money on bits. RCBO CU is obvs the best possible solution, but then you need a new metalclad CU and a load of paperwork to go with it.

You could just slide the RCD over and that would get you front of house earth protection for every circuit. I thoroughly dislike split load boards.

I thought the Tennents Larger had seen him off tbf. lol. I use the ‘super’ version to run my mower.

That’s what MCS is all about, making sure you can’t go buying cheap (non suitable) fixings and miss-matching metals that eat each other. They give strict methodology for fixing panels to roofs, so they stay there and can’t fly off and kill someone.

Over the volume of area, repeated, it would be perfectly fine afaic. The factory paint on these things is all marine grade.

@David001 The movement in the tiles is likely due to the subfloor (timber) having been routinely saturated, with frequent use of a failed (leaking) shower deck. It is very likely this needs to be cut out and replaced with new, to make this problem go away. Is this still visible from the patch repair down below? The hidden bowl speaks volumes of how ignorant the previous owners were, and how they had continued to knowingly use this whilst it was leaking. If you can get any pics of the underside that would be helpful, but I doubt it changes the hard facts. This is Donald Ducked.

@Alan Ambrose I'm a positive guy, but let’s be honest???? Tiles are moving / loose!! Read that above, again, and realise that this is too far beyond a band aid.

Neat maybe, but not a good job. The floor should have been built up with min 6mm plywood so the tiles would stay stuck down. As the tiles haven’t been given anything to hold firmly to, they’re just going to keep popping. Thos is zero to do with plumbing / waste / drain, the waters simply tracking through all the fractures in the grout etc, and there’s your leak. It just needs doing properly. Anything else will fail; “what will happen if I go sticking good tiles over loose ones?” is self explanatory. Please don’t waste good time and money doing this…..it will never work. What you could do, if you get a good installer, is remove the tiles in one piece(s) and relay them once the floors sorted. Not easy, and is a pita to do well.

Nope. Just a suicide mission tbh. ”Short cuts take 3 times longer”. Fact. Why are you scared of taking the floor up? This is an issue you can’t slide left / right, you need to resolve it and do it correctly, then it'll last decades.

Yup, but I guess there’s some long term savings if you can afford to invest significantly in renewable solutions (boosted ROI by getting closer to 100% self consumption etc). Defo a high, constant draw, as it’s resistive heating. The heater would be on pretty much 100% of time the unit is supplying input air during winter. @Gone West, do you have any kind of thermostatic or timed control over the post heater, or do you just let it ‘do its thing’? I’d still bend over backwards to get MVHR installed.

These can be used for sure, just the electric bill to take into consideration as a part of the space heating costs.

2hrs is getting off lightly lol. Frustrating though.

Just make sure you use protection, ok.

Easy, tiger. It's OK that we can see other people