Nickfromwales

I’d want to hear from a governing body and then have a method statement in place if doing something ‘bespoke’ and pushing these boundaries, given this is for a 3rd party public venue. I’d prob say go for B20’s not C20’s as there should be no need for the C capability.

Bean-counters prob won’t like the materials or manufacturing costs of that solution methinks, but for north of £6k for supply and fit, there’s should be enough frigging meat on their bones…

How do salt and certain metals ‘get along’? Hex is copper.

This is what I saw / heard back in the earlier days, so maybe watching these getting cobbled together then bears no relevance now, for completeness. Perhaps filling via that hole then inserting the ‘vent’ is the way now, as you say it would make much more sense. Not sure how that downstream high pressure could be held back by such a retro-fit fitting, but I’m unsure of whether the residual gap at the top was intentional / functional and allowed expansion within the cell, which it may not have if it was fully filled perhaps?

@Gibdog The extra penetration for sewage and grey water vs one duct for both will depend on whether you have a sewerage treatment plant or not If you're on a network sewer then no need to segregate them. You shouldn't really have any 'sensitive' or low voltage services in with mains cables tbh, I'm sure it's been done under duress a thousand times though, but this is a new build / new design so best to do things right. GTC (I worked with them in Gravenhill in oxford) would point blank refuse you a connection if you asked them to pull the same 2 cables into the one duct, so beware of getting refusals to connect / adopt your chosen methodology with groundworks from 3rd party providers! BT will want you to use a specific (BT56) rigid duct which they usually supply you FOC. If you search on here there are threads showing the recommended separation of incoming underground services when sharing the same trench etc which will help with economising on the number of trenches etc. Remember there are different size ducts, so some will be small 50mm ones, medium are ~75mm and bigger ones are 100-110mm (or larger), so don't install a bigger duct than needed for say the incoming internet provider (50mm is ample there). Cold mains will need the bigger size because of the minimum bending radius of 32mm MDPE, same for the incoming mains steel wire armoured cable, and so on. If you don't need a sprinkler / automatic fire suppression, then the outside taps should all come off the incoming cold mains MDPE (blue alkathene) pipe and (ideally) not after the domestic stopcock in the house, thus saving another penetration. The house water pressure can be more adversely affected by the outside taps coming after the internal house stopcock, and I avoid this whenever I can by simply T'ing off the incoming 32mm pipe with feeds to various outside tap locations, underground.

🤞

Ah, OK, thanks for the extra info. I think, to make a decent difference long-term to that one particular space, you'd need to look at it as a cube and make that shape good; floors up and ceilings down etc. The issue you'll have is that the space will constantly try and attain the ambient humidity and temperature of the rest of the build fabric. It is quite difficult to create single thermal & air-tight aka 'climate controlled' spaces like this within a functioning domestic dwelling, even more so if the extractor fan is constantly pulling humid air from floors / joist voids / rest of the house right through that room and out to atmosphere. If you're suggesting applying an insulated PB to that one wall and expect a significant (noticeable) result, then I think you'll be disappointed tbh.

A weak point for sure, and one has to wonder how the integrity and shape of the hot base section, then bloated and misshapen vs the cold lid, when brought together, are aligned for correct / sufficient purchase to be practically achieved during their 'welding' together. Lets remember that a proper fusion weld of 2 'plastic' gas mains is acceptable for large underground gas mains (high and low pressure) and these are extremely robust and almost impossible to break apart. My guess is that their process doesn't allow for the weld to be as good, given that (I assume) there is only access allowed from the outside of the pre-filled cell. Perhaps there is a lack of deep penetration so the full thickness of the cell isn't all part of the finished welded join. Who knows...I mean I have genuinely tried to think of how this could be done differently, today, but I am drawing a blank. Production-line solutions would probably be the answer, if this is now being outsourced for eg to a manufacturing giant.

The heat exchanger gets installed into the empty cell, the molten PCM gets poured in up to the fill up line (?) and then the difficulty starts methinks. How that gets sealed / welded shut successfully these days is unknown to me, but it was simply with a hand-held BFO soldering iron looking thing ( back in the day when I was standing right there watching the process) and I found it quite interesting to watch how this was actually being ‘done’…”manually”. 🫤. Hopefully a clever robot is doing this these days 🤞or a fusion weld wire or something. Or maybe they now have more guys and more irons.

The orange do-dah is what they refer to as the 1 way breather, or that’s what it was called, item 6 in the MIs I found online. I referred to it as the PCM PRV earlier in the thread (sorry for the confusion). That’s how the goop gets evacuated if it all goes nuclear.

Always handy to have a few of these ‘remnants’ at the side of the shed lol. @Jeremy Harris, note the blue cable gland I mentioned for securing the thermistor string, or not as the case may be. Ignore the random cardboard box at the bottom. I’d just had a coffee and a chocolate croissant and didn’t feel much like bending over to remove it. ☕️ 🥐 😋

The main issue is (was?) that the case is manufactured as 2 parts, and the break is where they have to be plastic welded together. I’d throw a £20 on that being where these fail, as it’s about 9/10th’s of the way up the case not at the top; ergo they’re in the dynamic section where movement is continuous. These things began to look like they were 3 months pregnant after installing and cycling a few times, where they heat up, get loose, and slump into their final resting position. A bit like when you get out of work and take your tie off and loosen your top button. Just too much weight in a flexible plastic box, particularly if that’s been bean-counted too; more reasonable argument for how these early failures have occurred.

I was going to add, the windows can have bats fitted for sign off and then just remove them, if for safety etc. If there’s an ASHP being installed then get one that does cooling also, add that into the mix, and then the issue gets massively reduced (bringing this back to reality).

50 lashes seems both fair and appropriate.

KISS then. Make it as nice as possible, practically, enjoy your time there, and move on without regret / remorse. 👊👌 Also with a significant chunk of change STILL in the bank. 🤝

External walls are where the temps change, so the inside face of external walls are usually the only place the upgrades are necessary (thermally) but others (adjoining dividing / stud walls) may also be upgraded for acoustics. If cold air can be sucked in at the bottom of the new board layer (behind skirting boards) and ejected by convection via the void to the cavity wall or joist voids, then sealing 360° around the new boards is critical. @nod does this by default when dot ‘n’ dabbing, one of a rare few with these qualities / higher standards. Please ask as many questions as you need to. 👌🫡

Thanks. So you can get rid of dot & dab and buy long as feck plasterboard screws, as this will then allow you to fix the insulated boards to the existing studs. Use PVA to prime all perimeters and use expanding foam to bond wherever getting a screw into studs is impossible, eg at corners / heads etc. Foam all joints, heads, and footers, with continuous beads of foam to prevent convection airflow around / between / behind the new layer of boards. Google “thermal tenting” for the ‘why’

A simple clamp meter wouldn’t suffice. This will be measured within a human ‘blink’. Oi!!!! Get your own job A C curve breaker is usually the more tolerant of “surge current”, caused by “shunt resistance” in motors usually, or lots of fluo lights etc. I would have thought C curve would be a ‘pikey’ solution but @ProDave and @Onoff are the books on this vs my less qualified understanding. Look at a domestic CU, where quite often or not (usually always) the total amps of each circuit massively outweighs the rating on the front of house isolator. I would suggest these were brought on by contactors which had programmable ‘delay on’ or even Shely’s perhaps, to bring them on one after the other. Depends on how they’re then used / turned on & off when room temps are achieved.

Exactly why this needed time and info for any kind of discernible response If tomorrow is immovable then I’d say buy the cheapest stats (£10 Honeywell rotary’s) and bin them later once an opportunity to decide on the final equipment has had a chance to evolve. “setback” thermostats will be a necessity with UFH, but a lot of (even shite) modern controls can achieve this as they don’t turn “off/on” but instead toggle between “comfort” and “economy” by you being able to select temps at chosen times; to do this you set to 18.5°C from 23:00 to 05:30, then 20.5°C from 05:31 to 07:30, and so on (assuming a working week). Ideally you’d need / want a stat that does 5+2 (mon-fri, then sat & sun), ergo this needs to be discussed properly and not with someone giving “24 hrs notice”

Ouch….I mean, you lucky chap to have such wonderful landlords. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

You can't afford me lol. I have a wife, 4 kids, and an AMG to feed

If the occupants can tolerate the MVHR being boosted from the late afternoon and into the very latest part of the evening, then a slightly oversized MVHR system will suffice here, 100%. @Mr Punter is correct in that it will not be able to combat solar gain whilst the sun is shining, the contributor to the problem, but MVHR very much will give you a resolution that will allow you to not fry like an egg when it's bedtime. It is simply down to compromise, education, understanding, and effort. For my current client (a certified Passiv Haus) I proposed an opposing solution, for the dreaded Part O demon, to the PH certified architect which dissolved this 'window & doors open' purge ventilation nonsense; I say nonsense because the actuality of being perpetually self-employed as a human room(s) thermostat is completely rubbish for a regular way of life IMHO, so is not an option at all in my M&E proposals. Houses (our homes) are to be lived in for the benefit, not detriment, to living eg they should not be made with inherent flaws that impinge upon us getting on with day-to-day business.... aka "life". Don't get me started on the opposite issue of being too cold in winter and having to put heaters in rooms and monitor that also.....ffs. Your architect fails to impress me, sorry.

Ola. How long are you staying there? If sub 10 years, ditch the madness, but if it's forever then get the wife drunk and get her to sign it all off in triplicate. This message will self-destruct in 5 seconds.................

Elaborate as to where and how many runs of it please. Pipe size and from / where to again, please?

Easy tiger Anyone on here who is asked to advise at short notice will either ignore you or do the honourable thing and ask for some rudimentary information to base a reply upon. "Tomorrow" is only going to happen if you compromise and cross your fingers, so why is the deadline so immovable? You ask if the above is zero volt, and from what I see the answer is yes. With the square root of feck all info to go on, I assume these are battery powered stats? If so, you can use them in your suggested scenario above. If you get properly stuck tomorrow, PM me your mobile number and I'll talk you through some options / give tech support as best I can. Hope that helps.