Nickfromwales

Every single drinking tap ’kit’ I’ve ever fitted has had a cartridge filter. Consensus seems to be not to drink or excessively consume softened water, specifically. Every fridge with a drinking water outlet or ice maker has one for example.

Why have half a tap saved from hard water crud and early demise, and not all outlets? Filtered water taps from hard water via de-chlorinating / carbon filters seems to be most clients choice when I explain these things, for drinking water. Often with a 3-in-1 kitchen sink tap, but defo wouldn’t advise on a 50/50 setup ?!

The softener “flushes” when it regenerates, of what I know of these devices.

Just remember you’ll need full building control evidence for the foundations if you wish to go up with the second lift retrospectively That’ll need photographic evidence and measurements recorded. Possibly get them signed off as if for a 2-storey extension first as last is the safest route. Strip founds are quick and simple, and for what you’re looking to achieve I’d prob stick with KISS philosophy here, more so to attract a simpler builder, if you’re not DIY’ing the whole thing. Raft is better, but you’ll need a structural engineer report before doing anything to check what options work; you may find only a raft will work here/with current soil conditions/being on made-up ground, for eg.

Thank feck you didn't use Denso tape!! The grease bleeds into the plasterwork and out to the painted surface, and you'd have had to hack that all off and do it all again in a couple of months, especially when the heat gets to the grease!!!! Denso is now banned in most instances, bloody ghastly stuff tbf.

As long as they're installed A1, as with anything. These are the types of jobs started out with the very best of intentions, but fail due to employing useless cocks to actually do the install. Buyer beware etc, so do your diligence on the contractors and tell them you want FLIR evidence from before and after. The cocks won't come back, so will be quickly identified and omitted

Quite often so, when a lot of work on IWI terminates at the inner leaf of the cavity. Will probably help more with summer overheating, but won't do much for heating afaic, vs the IWI. All boils down to managing cold air infiltration to the dwelling interior, from atmosphere.

Overall heat loss primarily, and then part O ( and common sense before it ) for overheat. TBF, it varies very differently house to house, with a live survey and some grey matter applied accordingly, and then you can get a proper handle on which 'ends/sides' of the house will need some better thought and strategizing. I dislike fudge, as installed systems are expensive to amend retrospectively. Not had to do that, yet, 🤞

Do the rooms, spaces etc, add it altogether, and utilise the average. Then look at the dwelling fabric / solar gain, and so on, and include any other known peripherals to the mix. Rooms and spaces are simply boxes within a defined global "heated and (sometimes) airtight envelope", and IMHO what happens within that divisible space is very difficult/near impossible to differentiate.

1,000,000% It'll be the best time/effort/money you spend (IMHO). I promote airtightness over insulation every day; with a house that has MVHR obvs.

Get your insulation from https://www.secondsandco.co.uk/ and please send me 10% of whatever you save so I can buy beer for the needy (myself). It's a genuine cause, I assure you.....ahem.....

Not really, and I've been installing for 30+ years. Just look at getting more pipe in than you will be recommended by the "knee-jerk" posse, and install at 100mm centres on an 'inverted loop' pattern. This will promote better W/m2 with the lowest possible flow temps. This takes heated water to the centre of the room quicker, vs 'serpentine'. Insulation will be the biggest issue, and the more you put in, the less heat the floor will require to do the same job.

I've stopped doing room by room, you just end up chasing your M&E tail tbh. Most rooms achieve an ambient, regardless, and rooms with lower temps attract heat from adjoining spaces, so seems a more pragmatic approach in most instances to just copy/paste/calculate.

You’d just use a Hep elbow for that and then clip the pipe where it’s on show to keep the pipe from moving?

When fitting these in bathrooms, I use the compression ones with a short piece of copper and then Hep2O on to the copper. The pressure there is low because it’s feeding an open-ended outlet, so it’ll never see static cold mains pressure anyways. I use brass for strength, but I’ve also used a brass compression 15mm tee with a 1/2” centre Link with a 4-6” piece of copper in each side. One side as the feed, and then the other end to a hep cap end with 2 clips either side of the tee to hold it all steady. That was for a heavy shower arm where I wanted a bit more ‘beef’ to the fixing methodology.

Are the radiators all going to be changed (upsized) to cope with the low flow temps?

Bonding will be fine, just don’t try to fill it all in one set. Half fill, leave 24hrs, then final fill just a bit shy. Then finish with Easi-fill or Tupret filler which will sand back easily. If you need to remove the plumbers foam then it’ll just scrape out tbh.

Same kind of stuff I linked above, just a cheaper brand

https://www.bes.co.uk/class-o-adhesive-tape-black-3mm-x-50mm-x-15m-17548/ A bit of this both sides/around, and then nail clip the pipes. Then fill over. It’s not the best things to chase a wall and bury pipes, but I’ve done it so many times I’ve lost count. Heat will leak into the wall, but a comet may also hit planet earth and kill us all, so decide if a neat room is important and accept the compromise afaic

1.5mm would be plenty at such low consumption. 1.5 carries 18amps give or take. You need less than half an amp or so.

If different brands do exactly the same size, yes. If not……..

I'm a fan of that floor also. Much warmer looking room tbh, so that's a silver lining to your cloud afaic

5kW?

Giving the sizes of the ducts would help I have offcuts of the green Ubbink 92mm (that's all I've used for the last 5+ years) if anyone needs internal/external diameter etc?

I'll do it for £40 lol. These beers just don't buy themselves!!