Nickfromwales

Which makes us both wonder why we got out of bed eh?? 😑

Hi James. I have been buying systems, and having support for (design and) installation of them, via CVC Systems Ltd (now also Air-Haus.co.uk) for many years. There isn't a single instance where these guys have let me, or a client of mine down, which is a bloody rare quality. I can put you in touch with other BH members who will testify to this, via PM. I keep using them because of the great feedback, after-sales service, and robust design and support service that I have been given to date. May sound like sales-patter, but it's just based on facts

I think a lot more people will start using AeroBarrier, and ditch the taping around windows and doors etc. One I’m working on atm is block walls, so I’ve recommended a bit of parge at the top 200mm of the wall, and leave to dry. Then some Passive Purple liquid airtight membrane over that. Then the AT membrane comes down the roof, drop vertically on to the wall for about 100mm, then tape goes from membrane to PP. Then all M&E 1st fix, then get AeroBarrier in. Happy days.

Depends on the current rating of the cable vs the draw off the motors. These are usually geared down quite a lot so not huge amounts of power (not voltage) required, but we’d need to know some basic info to help.

Any questions?

Agreed. An SE shouldn’t be much more than a few hundred quid, so they’re your first port of call. Info given here is of little to no use to you as it’s not specific and not underwritten.

You can try contacting CVC Oxford, they’ve travelled nationwide to a number of my clients projects, so may be able to help. If you hold off a day or two, you may get a few more replies here with someone recommending somebody nearer to you.

It's less than great.... Ideally you need a gravel trap in front of the vent so that water instantly drop before getting to the vent, so the tile needs to be cut in situ, or removed and replaced.

OSO should concede and take full ownership of this (hopefully isolated) feck up. Would be good if they do this with the least amount of resistance. There's zero argument of like for like, or "there was one there before, we just replaced it" as the cylinder is larger than the original therefore it is a new and unique undertaking.

Ah, yes, sorry, I do recall. I'll try and be more helpful....

We have considered giving him his own category here, but the men in white coats gave up trying to name it.....

Easy tiger, let's not go all Mary Berry on this lol. Just leave it for 72 hours and check to see if there's still a constant dribble. If not, then bake a cake to celebrate.

Adding so indiscriminately to your extraction setup will make it a very cold house during winter. I'd steer away from mechanical centralised ventilation and just go for fans where you want them, used when you need them, only. Having the above arrangement means you're extracting from the utility regardless if there's any need to or not. Having 1x extractor on at any one time should allow the cold air in > heated air from the whole house out to become diluted enough for the cold air infiltration to be of negligible impact.

If you fit it properly it'll probably outlast you. UG pipework is never accessible....

Don't go any smaller, or the DHW will take forever to heat up. I'd not go smaller than 250L, to allow you to strategize when you reheat.

Understood, just is the opposite of mine, with ~35 years on the coal face. I can still taste the damn coal

That's strange, I specifically remember telling him you lived in Belgium.

You could just make the battens a bit thicker to increase the gap behind the cladding?

Anything sucking air in from outside will pull the smoke/BBQ smells etc into the house. That includes trickle vents, PIV, MVHR anything. Trickle vents are required any time you drop below 3ACH, eg if you have not installed trickle vents/have made your home reasonably airtight or completely airtight to PH standards etc; and are then subject to choking on your own output overnight in the bedrooms, and wafting the stench out of a window after other activities, etc. For one client in the sticks, same scenario, I just put a timer contactor on to the A/C power supply to the MVHR unit to give them a 1-2 hour hit of no incoming air from atmosphere (time delay user-definable), and obvs explained that the vegan curry better 'stay in' until the MVHR system comes back on etc.

Your BCO makes little sense.....not surprised as so few actually do when it comes to ventilation. Serious lack of education here or 'gettting with the times' . Trickle vents being omitted is fine, but then you need MVHR to provide fresh air to each habitable space, and extracts to all other wet/stinky areas. Any type of ventilation system that doesn't recover heat is just perverse AFAIC, who wants a system on 24/7/365 that blows cold air from outside into all the bedrooms and living spaces all day and night in the winter.....feck that. If you spoke to a ventilation system provider, worth their weight, then they'd tell you under no circumstances should that recirculation system be subject to all the cooking stream/grease etc as it will kill it off at a rapid rate of knots. You defo need to extract the grease etc at source, with a powerful local recirculating cooker hood, and leave the MVHR to change the cleanest possible air in the house, boosting when applicable. Recirculation alone isn't sufficient, unless you have mechanical ventilation. Bloody great help when some professional gives you just 'some' or worse/wrong information, when you are beholden to them.....

Yup. A good time to charge the domestic battery, as well as the one on 4 wheels, and the DHW, and batch heat the slab, and run the washing machine and TD.....doubt they give 2 hoots tbf.

I've always had S&C screeds put down by my excellent screeder, and I only ever seal them if we're tiling or bonding a floor down. There is little to no dust associated with a S&C screed, usually anything on the surface is from cutting plasterboards etc on site (dust/debris) which you can manage with a good vacuum. If the laminate is a floating floor, I'd not waste the time/money tbh.

I promise you it'll be a waste of time and effort, as banking for space heating needs to be on a MUCH bigger scale/volume, like 1000L-1500L minimum, to make any sense.

Yes, I'd improve that with a cut timber, birds-mouthed to accept the purlin so the flat side of the timber rested on the final laid course of brickwork, but I expect this has been there for multiples of decades without a single issue.....

Being a pyramid roof, linear movement is unlikely. Most purlin struts I've seen have been a max 100mm wide timber, sat on a single skin masonry wall. Next to zero dynamic movement here other than wind-shear, so doubt it's an issue.