-
Posts
1207 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
17
Everything posted by NSS
-
Spent last weekend in Painswick. Nice area. Stayed at Cardynham House.
-
Ours is two sheets of 8mm toughened then laminated and bolted to the steel stringers. Absolutely rock solid.
-
The Solent area has it's own micro-climate. Was wet and windy all day yesterday but has been gusting to over 50 knots since the early hours with intermittent downpours. Definitely a day for indoor jobs!
-
Quick update. Active cooling via the UFH is now sorted. All we need now is for summer to return so we can try it!
-
Welcome. We have a timber frame with similar u-values to your target and (relative to the size of the property) quite a lot of south-facing glazing (albeit SageGlass). We don't open any windows/doors as air quality is crucial to my wife's health, but we do have active cooling capability (though it's not been needed often). We had our groundworks (up to slab) done by a local contractor and then the timber frame made and erected. We then used subbies and did quite a lot of the rest ourselves. We did a fair bit of research into the various TF suppliers and narrowed it down to two who we had detailed discussions with and quotes from. In the end we chose the one we felt most comfortable with, not least because (when you're spending near £100k) we liked that our money was held in ESCROW until agreed stages were completed before release to said supplier. The two were Touchwood and Scandia Hus, and we went with the latter. They're not the cheapest, and don't (or at least didn't) offer the u-values of the likes of MBC, but we've no regrets about our choice. Whichever route you choose, it has to be what you believe is right for you (and your budget), but be prepared for a rollercoaster ride and make sure you have a healthy contingency. We hoped to spend £240k and ended up spending around £305k on our fairly complex chalet bungalow design of 165m2 (GIA) plus a double attached garage. Even if you plan everything to the nth degree, at times you'll still question why you ever started, but it will be worth it in the end. Enjoy the ride ?
-
Not the most eco-friendly solution though Dave ?
-
Which features of your house bug you?
NSS replied to puntloos's topic in New House & Self Build Design
Bugs bug me. Specifically spiders. Not inside the house, the place is so airtight they can't get inside unless they follow you in as you open the front door, but outside - all over the outside. Not sure whether it's the cladding, and the air gaps above and below it, but it's spider heaven and they seem to particularly enjoy crawling over the security cameras. The little buggers have a habit of doing so at silly-o'clock, triggering the motion sensors which in turn results in a very loud 'alert' tone on my phone. I have even been known to go outside in the middle of the night with a feather duster tied to a broom handle to clear them. Bloody web-cams! -
Exterior CCTV camera advice needed
NSS replied to H F's topic in Networks, AV, Security & Automation
Wireless cameras? -
Good old BBC weather forecast. At 8am the forecast for here was clear skies all day. By noon is was partly cloudy and by 2pm pretty much full cloud cover so I stopped taking readings as it wouldn't have been a useful test. Auntie Beeb? is currently forecasting rain and near gale force winds all day tomorrow, so chances are it will be wall to wall sunshine and a gentle breeze ?
-
I'm using an IR sensor 'gun' and suspect that it is not the most accurate device but should at least be able to see a trend. Also recording the supply and outside temp readings from the MVHR.
-
Am recording temperatures at a number of points internally and externally today at hourly intervals, albeit first taken at 0940, so I can build a better picture. Forecast here is for clear skies all day so should be interesting.
-
No, unfortunately not. What I did note last night was that the room temp, and that of the internal wall face, continued to rise (at least for a couple of hours or so). Presumably this is decrement delay at work.
-
Hi @lizzie, will endeavour to oblige but in its tinted state I imagine it performs much the same as any 3G glazing.
-
No problem. Curious as to why you asked?
-
No, not dark here either, but sun down. I should have mentioned, we've had no doors or windows open, no active cooling on, and the MVHR has been running on the lowest fan speed on summer bypass. In fairness, it's been less sunny this afternoon than when I took the earlier readings with scattered cloud cover.
-
As requested, at 8.40pm External face temp of glass - 19.5C Internal face temp of glass - 23.3C External face of frame (Internorm Aluclad RAL 7016) - 20.5C Internal face of frame (timber) - 23.7C External wall temp alongside glazing (timber cladding) - 19.7C Internal wall temp alongside glazing - 24.0C Current room stat temp - 24.0C
-
One thing I've kept meaning to do is to check the external and internal faces of the SageGlass units on a sunny day when in full tint. Well today's the day. Temperatures as of 1.15pm (Sun direct in line of glazing) External face temp of glass - 49.4C Internal face temp of glass - 24.6C External face of frame (Internorm Aluclad RAL 7016) - 50.1C Internal face of frame (timber) - 26.0C External wall temp alongside glazing (timber cladding) - 40.6C Internal wall temp alongside glazing - 24.1C Current room stat temp - 23.9C Seems the heat transfer through the fully tinted glass is no worse (possibly a fraction better) than through the window frame.
-
Fan Coil Units for use with a (cooling) ASHP
NSS replied to ProDave's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
It's worth remembering that solar gain via glazing is only part of the issue though. Our SageGlass blocks 97% of solar gain but, in sustained periods of high temperatures such as the last few days, heat permeates through the roof and walls irrespective of how well insulated your build is. Okay, it may permeate more quickly through some insulation types than others, but the real issue is getting it out again once it does get in. Let's face it, if @JSHarris is using active cooling so much then I'd suggest you are wise to at least be making provision for active cooling. I'm very glad we did, I just wish I'd tried out the UFH element of it before this week ?♂️ -
Yes, unfortunate name (think 'roof art' rather than 'roo fart') but their stuff is, so far as I can see, practically identical to Lindab and considerably less expensive.
-
Buy an identical piece from Roofart for half the price of the Lindab original and save yourself the grief of trying to remove the dent ?
-
? where's the "whoosh, that went straight over my head" emoji when you need it. Some people on this site are just far too clever (and I suspect I still wouldn't understand any of that if I googled the likes of API key, JSON, Python code or SQlite, never mind 'cron job'). ?
-
True, but when it's this hot (and sunny) our PV heats our DHW without any extra input from the heat pump anyway.
-
Humidity upstairs today was about 61% (we normally sit at between about 46 and 52) so again higher than is usual, but if we can deliver cool water to the floor at 15C (the pump is capable of going as low as 5C) then I don't see we'd have a dew problem either. As you say, hopefully they can sort it but at least we can cool the bedroom with the air rad in the meantime.
