thomas

This is what Eon is trying to push me onto. My supplier was one of the ones who went bust, I used to pay 12p per unit tail end of last year. While this may be an extreme it's what's available on the market right now and energy prices wont go down from the 26p the normal is at the moment Thank you everone for their input into a charger.

Well with the price of electric going to hit 50p/kwh the cost of a battery storage is looking more and more cost feasible. I already have a grid tied PV system installed unfortunately I did not got for a hybrid inverter (Solis 5g). I would really like some recommendations on another system to charge and manage an ion lithium battery storage which would work with what I’ve already got instead of having to buy a new inverter. Any help would be much appreciated.

Hi Dave Thank you for your reply. I've read your thread on your solar 'shed' but I could not see a break down on what you brought, would you mind sharing it or if I've missed the post linking it to please? I've looked at individual components and so far I've not managed to save any money over the kits but will keep trying.

Has anyone brought and installed any of the cheap ebay solar kits? I am looking at one from energystore2, but I am not too sure if I am just going to get some rocks in a box Does anyone have any thoughts? It's going on a flat roof so I'll just modify the mounting system. 4Kw array for around £2265 inc 12* JA Solar 335W Solar Panels (Dimensions - 2000mm x 991mm) 1* Solis 4kW Dual tracker Inverter 1* Schletter Roof Mounting System (Layout - 2 Rows of 6 Portrait - including roof hooks, rails, end/mid clamps etc) 1* Santon AC Isolator 1* K&N DC Isolator 1* Emlite Generation Meter 1* 50m DC Cable 2* Pairs of MC4 Connectors 1* Safety Label Set 1 * Fitting Instructions

Do you need a suspened floor? Floor slabs are (nearly) always cheaper and better than suspended. As for that product looks alright, it's just block and beam with the eps baked into it. I would be slightly worried about cracking between the panels but hopfully they have already thought about that.

Hi! Are you still happy with your warmcore bi folds? Did you go for warmcore windows as well?

Thanks @peterw you made me go check th duct size on the unit and it's 150mm, i was told the wrong size ? That should be easier to find vents.

Flow is around 55 l/s off the top of my head. If I use 2 tile vents per supply and exhaust and split with a 180mm Y then reduce to 100mm do you think this will work?

Does not need to be a tile vent, also I would have thought they'd get blocked by snow?

Won't 100mm restrict air flow too much?

I have a plain tile roof and am planning bin putting the supply and exhaust on the roof, it's a bungalow so I don't really have roof on the walls. I am having troubles finding suitable roof vents suitable for 180mm ducts with a hight enough capacity. Has anyone got any one got any product recommendations?

Very good blog! Did you have 2 separate sets of external intakes and exhausts? I suppose the main disadvantage of having 2 units is you have to mount the horizontally so take up a lot more space ?

What's the best way to use 2 smaller units for a single dwelling? Is it best in series, parrell or separate zones with equal wet dry zones? Or something completely different.

I don't think there is anything new about this, nor the way they are insulating around stuff. It's part of eco, the energy suppliers commitment to improving the energy efficiency of existing housing stock. The surprise is that eon are still doing it, I thought all their money had run out. You only need to get to building regs when possible, adding 150mm of insulation to an existing house can cause lots of problems with detailing.

I'd be slightly disappointed if Grand Designs was not a 'grand design' I liked 100k house on the bbc, it acually had some new ideas in it.

Thanks for all the input, I think I'll make a box out of osb and see if I can get a builders merchant wagon to lift it up for me on his hiab. Wish I had make the size slightly smaller than a pallet though, would have saved me some work. I am pretty tight when it comes to these things and i worry if I hire a material lift I will just be messing around trying to get it to fit on. It's a stepped unit for a skylight to fit on a nearly flat roof, 6.4-16-6 with a 100mm step all the way around the edge, I am worried as it will be quite fragile because of the lip.

I have a fairly large bit of glass 1800x1700mm to get up onto my roof, it's 6mm so it weights about 90kg. Has anyone got any suggestions on how to get it up there? Roof height is about 3 meters.

I've also heard they are very bad for air tightness and you need to parge both sides

This is really interesting, I have wondered about fixing rain screens to ewi. @Stones did you just use long screws to fix your batons, did you plug them or use concrete screws, any chance of some pictures? I wonder if you can tile over EPS with large format tiles.

Apart from it looking fancy what are the benefits over a standard door? Can you make them bigger as you have a bit of counter balance?

This is the stuff I remember looking at: http://www.greenbuildingstore.co.uk/products/compacfoam-200/ It's not cheap at £26/m so is there an alternative? If I do use timber do I just rebate the back of the eps ewi?

I spoke to building control and they were happy for me to build a sleeper wall as long as I used ties into the original wall. I ended up just cutting holes into the original brick work, was free compared to blocks

I use http://www.gasandwaterpipelines.co.uk/ Never had any problems with their compression fittings but I have to agree plasson are one of the better makes.

Depends on your cladding, if you can have water penetration the top of the window must be allowed to drain. Bottoms are windows are normally closed by the cill.

What is the best way to install a bifold foor in a solid wall with 200mm of external wall insulation? I want to minimise thermal bridging (though the bifold door is a massive bridge) and install the door in the insulation, this may mean I get get away with standard size cills. But what's the best way to do this? Do you think some eps 300 would be strong enough to hold the door if I make a frame up with it? Or should I use timber or steel hidden in the insulation?