Dillsue

It likely will, but needs time. As others have suggested you'll need to leave the heating on continuously for probably weeks to warm up what's likely to be 10s or 100s of tons of stone. Only then will you start to feel warm without the walls soaking up all the heat. A quick Google search suggests your walls U values are unlikely to be significantly different to an uninsulated brick cavity wall but the advantage the cavity wall has is that it doesn't have the thermal capacitance of your walls so will heat up quicker. When we first switched our heat pump on last September it took a few days of continuous heating before the temperature stabilised. That's in a reasonably well insulated house but we have alot of masonry inside the the house including an old brick chimney breast. It all takes time to warm up.

Just check the max power available on the back up output will power the "heavier" loads. The Solis unit I'm thinking of using is a max of 5kw on the back up output so would need a bit of manual load management if we wanted to cook in the winter with the HP running

I think the grid disconnect is done within the inverter as it is with G98/G99 so no external changeover/disconnect needed?? In the second schematic the "on grid home load" will be dead in a power cut and the "load" will be live, fed from the batteries or generator. If the inverter can't sense a stable grid connection it keeps itself disconnected with internal contactors?? In terms of installers knowing the requirements for backup power supplies/generators, are they actually covered in the wiring regs to the level that the regs spell it out in black and white and every spark would know exactly how to wire things?? I've always understood it to be a bit of a grey area??

But if there's a neutral to earth bond, as in the schematic, anything the inverter might apply to the neutral line will run to earth?? I appreciate UK regulation/best practice may want the inverter neutral disconnecting from the grid as well as line, but if the neutral is earthed surely there's no hazard??

Wanting to understand more about this, what is the risk to the DNOs linesmen if the neutral is bonded to earth but the DNOs neutral isn't disconnected from the customers inverter, seemingly as in the schematic??

Its not electrically the same if the DNOs cable gets disconnected/severed which seems to be your concern?? Outside of your house isn't under your control but inside your house is, so you can ensure that link remains. If your inverter meets UK grid regs then there will be people at Growatt that understand the UK grid so should be able to clarify things for you??

As both the house loads and the inverter are connected to both the earthbar and neutral bars in the schematic, I take it that Growatt expect that E-N link to be within your house. It's a poor schematic if that's depicting the link to be out in the grid somewhere. Probably worth asking Growatt for clarification??

No idea about long term longevity but ours has been in since 2020 and works fine. The mat we used is self adhesive so sticks to the tanking membrane and then gets buried in a layer of tile adhesive. Tiles are laid in another layer of adhesive sat over the heating mat. Straight forward to install.

Maybe Im unique in the world as we removed a wall together with 2.5metres of kitchen units. If we'd followed the mantra of only piping open spaces, we'd have a big cold patch where the old units were.

And when you remodel the room so the areas you left unheated are now exposed and the areas with heating are now covered??

Correct that is a plinth heater but nothing to stop you installing a plinth fan to draw trapped UFH heated air from under kitchen cabinets which you seemed to suggest couldn't/shouldn't be done??

Aren't those examples of flexibility rather than redundancy?? Redundancy would necessitate doubling up on loops so if one failed the other can provide the full heating load, in my understanding of redundancy. You'd need to install twice as many loops and twice as much pipe if you wanted full redundancy.

Maybe not in your world:)

Yes, Yes and No! We did a large kitchen/diner with 100mm+ slab and pipe at 150mm centres, I think....it was 20+ years ago. We did the whole floor wall to wall so heated under cabinets and a partition wall. It's been great to have warm tiles:) If there was concern over loss of heat output from the areas under cabinets you could put a fan in the plinth to draw out the warmed air??

Assuming the walkin shower is tiled then put in an electric UFH mat. You can get a former for the shower area to give a fall to the drain, electric mat over the whole floor then tile over the mat. If you're getting batteries anyway and your solar is MCS accredited so you can get paid for PV export, then best £ROI solution that I can see is export everything you can @15p/unit and run the house off the batteries for much of the time charged @8p/unit on a TOU tariff. You'd need to work your own figures but my estimates suggest that's worth a few bob and worth recabling my PV so it's the first connection to the DNOs incoming supply so our new batteries can power the house while the PV runs to the grid

Me to with an older section of the house having 8mm micropore drops down the walls to the rads. Set on the slowest speed it pulls a steady indicated 10 watts. An easy way to retrofit a HP to small bore pipework:)

Exactly this. Max flow temp we've seen is 34 degrees through the cold days we've had and the living areas been at a steady 21 degrees since early november

To keep hot water available switch the immersion on and leave it on. It may not heat the whole cylinder but should give you enough for a single shower. Wait half an hour between showers and you'll all get one. Borrow a couple if electric fan heaters and use those to heat the house while the heat pump is off. For the heat pump fault if youve already cleaned and replaced the blocked strainer and repressurised the system, switch the power off using the switch by the pump and leave it off for a couple of minutes. Switch the power back on and see how things are.

Get the rads sorted out. If you turn up the flow temp you'll be paying extra for the life of the house. A reshuffle of the rads you've got and one or 2 new ones will sort the heating for the life of the house. If the rads you've got now aren't heating the upstairs enough then go back to basics with a check on room heat loss calcs and that the correct correction factors were used to size the rads for the design flow temp you want. Something has gone wrong if your rooms aren't getting up to temp and your really want to find out why

Fogstar have a list of inverters that are compatible with their battery kits so probably best to stick to one they know will work. Install from scratch is probably the best part of a day. With the kits you need to balance charge the cells which would take a bit of time to assemble and disassemble. Charging may take a few hours or maybe days. This is all on their Web site. For install you got the following to do- Batteries need assembling into the pack enclosure Battery pack DC cabling needs connecting to the inverter together with a Canbus comms cable Mount inverter and connect up AC connection to consumer unit Connect up solar if its a hybrid inverter Install meter/CT by service meter and connect up supply to the meter Run comms cable between inverter and meter If you're going for an inverter with a backup output for when the grid goes down you've got to install another consumer unit and move the backed up circuits over to the backup CU. Then run a supply cable between the inverter and the new CU. Could be best part of a day just for the backup CU!

Don't spend too much time recrunching as summers only just round the corner and PV£ will be slipping through your fingers😁

If the cable was correctly sized to carry 7 kw from the house to the garage for the charger then it will be large enough to carry up to 7kw in the other direction ie from the battery inverter to the house. FIT rules changed a few years ago and you can chop and change a system like adding batteries and probably change the inverter for a hybrid if that suited you better

This https://www.fogstar.co.uk/collections/solar-battery-storage/products/seplos-v4-kit-and-x16-highstar-314ah-bundle

If your existing solar inverter is a hybrid version then you can connect batteries to that, but..... if you want the batteries remote from the inverter then you'll need massive cables to carry the high current delivered by the battery if its a low voltage battery, around 48/50volts. If you want the batteries in your garage the probably more cost effective to have a second inverter in the garage to manage the batteries

Fogstar do 15kwh self assembly kits for £1480 so under £3k for 30kwh and showing in stock. How much money you can generate depends on so many things but you'd need to estimate usage and choose a tariff as a start