Dillsue

If it's a cage clamp connector that you open with a screwdriver, look down the open end and you'll see the clamp opening when you push the screwdriver in. They are crimpless connectors so just cut off the existing end, strip off 10-12mm of insulation and carefully slide the bunched strands into the opening checking there's no strands sticking out. Don't twist or crimp the stranded ends as they are intended to be squashed by the clamp to maximise the contact area....majorly important with cage clamp power connectors to max out the contact area but not so important with low power connections.

The panels will need mounting on something so there'll be a cost for that something, whatever it is. If the fence is a boundary between the OP and neighbours it's likely to need to be aesthetically pleasing and I doubt the neighbours would want to look at the back of PV panels. It's a Solaredge system so it won't work without SE optimisers. Cables will likely need managing. I'd be fairly confident there'll be more costs than just the panels and a spark??

Plus mounting rails, clamps, cable, conduit, optimisers. Mounted vertically will improve winter generation but total for the year will likely be lower than roof mounted at an angle. If you're bothered about £ROI then maybe run the generation through PVGIS, but if you've got £ to blow crack on and enjoy the novelty

Are the DNOs able to gain any meaningful peak generation info from domestic scale PV info when they never ask for details of the direction and inclination of installed panels??

?? @Pocster is likely on a 60-100amp supply so the cabling will carry 16amp easily. If it can carry 16amp for 1 sunny day it can carry it every day. I believe @Pocster has had extensive dialogue with his DNO over adding batteries so everything will almost certainly be specced right

Your grid connection will already be rated to carry 16amp export. Your inverter will push that out for hours on a sunny summers day so not a problem to do that every day, if you had enough sun

If your still running solaredge then you can add more panels up to the max number of optimisers....24 if it's an SE3680H you've got. You also need to keep under the max DC input which is likely double the inverter rating. DNO is only interested in the max the inverter will produce so adding panels won't increase that. If you're getting FIT then you need to notify your FIT payer of the addition. If youre thinking of building a fence with panels, remember that lots of fences eventually blow down and pretty much all wooden fences eventually succumb with rot. Climate change ain't gonna make future storms any less intense and likely the opposite so use battleship engineering

We've got friends living in a large solid walled 1800s house and their ASHP works well for them. They've got insulated UFH, fairly recent DG and deep loft insulation. No IWI or EWI so they've not gone mad with insulation but are still happy.

There's only you that can decide on any prep mods for an ASHP. All the previous posts have started to scratch the surface on the things you need to consider before you make the decisions. The problem you have is many of those posting will have their own preference so what one person says is right for them isn't necessarily the right thing for you, or others, the size of rads being a classic example. I want the best system efficiency so have designed for a low flow temp and large radiators as I'm not bothered about large rads but dont want the cost and disruption of removing floors to install UFH. Others don't want or can't have large rads so are running with smaller rads/higher flow temps and living with higher running costs but lower installation costs. Neither option is right for everyone.

Are the 2 strings of 5 getting wired to separate MPPT inputs?

Care to share how it failed?? Intrigued to know to avoid repeating the cause, if possible

If your designing for a low flow temp then yes, just move the pipes from the rad to the UFH.

A large emitters surface area is what works best with a HP so that it can work at low temperatures. UFH gives a large area without being intrusive but radiators can give a big enough surface area too. Retro fitting UFH is more involved, intrusive and costly than radiators so it's up to you what you go for depending on your preference for the type of emitter versus your budget. If you've already got usable plumbing for radiators then that's a plus for rads. Hopefully you already know what's involved in installing wet UFH so you'll appreciate that it's pretty disruptive to install. If youve sized your rads to operate at low temperature, the plumbing involved in swapping from rads to UFH is a small proportion of the work to install UFH. The other consideration is to look at your insulation and draught proofing before you spec a new heating system.

If your boiler is now defunct, my advice would be to have a look on ebay or marketplace and get a secondhand replacement to repair or replace what you've already got. That will buy you time to answer all your questions and work out what you need/want rather than rushing into throwing an ASHP under pressure to get the heating back on.

No problem fitting a bigger expansion vessel, but if this EV is in an existing and previously working system, why do you and your plumber think its suddenly become to small??

If it's a new system then it could be an undersized expansion vessel but if it's been in service for a while the much more likely the expansion vessel has lost its pressure or the diaphragm has failed.

Another potential quirk may have happened this morning. It's been too warm during the day recently for the HP to modulate down enough so it doesn't short cycle so we've used the thermostat to turn it off during the day but leave it to run in the cheap overnight period which finishes around 5 am. When I looked at the controller first thing this morning the inlet and outlet temperatures were around 19/20 degrees having cooled from 30 degrees that would have been running at up til 5.30. An hour or so later the inlet and outlet were both at 22 degrees which is room temperature so I think the circulation pump must have fired up?? It was pretty cold outside but no where near freezing, maybe 10-12 degrees, so no need for any freeze protection but maybe it's an anti condensation feature to keep the section with the PCBs dry?? Antifreeze protection seems OTT at those temperatures but anti condensation seems more plausible??

If the ivt9 stops the pump then that seems to be different to the Therma V?? A bit of experimentation needed

I'm guessing that if there's some knocking when the diverter changes over that there's a short period when it's closed to both DHW and CH which is causing the knocking?? Slowing the flow might be the easiest fix but if that doesn't work then a change of valve or securing the pipework could be the next step. I think you've got a display of flow rate on the series 4 so can see if you're maintaining a decent flow if you back off the pump

What series have you got? I'm guessing that the DIP switch to enable DHW functionality is set correctly or you'd likely not have any DHW options at all. Assuming the switch is set correctly, any options for DHW settings should be showing in the installer menu but I dont remember seeing anything about settings during changeover. If you've got rattling pipework options I'd look at would be- Secure the pipework Throttle the pumps maximum output in the installer menu Change your diverter for one that doesn't block the flow when it's changing from one port to the other

I assume Chris has a DHW heating schedule that avoids peak times?? Do you have the Energy State function on your early version?

Not sure what series HP you have but on our series 3 I could use a timed contact to switch the thermostat input to turn the HP off during peak cost periods. Although Ive not used it yet, the Energy State function seems to allow you to turn off or set back heating and hot water setpoint temperatures by switching a pair of digital inputs. If it's available on your HP you could use that feature to set back flow temp during peak times and boost flow temp during the Cosy periods

I've started this topic to document some of the quirks I'm finding in getting our Therma V installed and up and running. There's lots of other topics covering some of the quirks which I've read several times to try and understand how Heat pumps work and in particular how the Therma V works. Some of what's said elsewhere will likely be repeated here! Our HP is a secondhand 7kw unit built in late 2020. The part number ending in U43 says its a series 3 unit as that's what the last digit denotes. Our software version from the remote controller is 3056. The first quirk is the installation manual says the transition from series 3 to series 4 was from August 2020 to Setember 2020. The date on our HP is 20 October 2020 yet it's a 3 series! Double check the manual/HP model to make sure your reading the correct info applicable to your series. Next quirk is that I've seen a number of posts where one person is describing a feature and another person doesn't seem to have that feature. What I have found is that what the remote controller displays/how it acts can be dependant on DIP switch/ link settings. If you enable the use of a third party thermostat the On/Off button on the controller stops working and displays function blocked if you try to switch the heating off from the remote control panel. Similarly our HP had previously been used with glycol and there was a DIP switch AND a linked plug that had been set to use glycol. This then gave an "antifreeze" option within the installer menu. I'm not using glycol so have reset the DIP switch and link to reflect this. The "antifreeze" option has now disappeared from the installer menu. Be conscious that if there's differences in features between your system and others of seemingly the same model, it can be just that the settings are different that either add or remove features!! Resetting CH14 low flow errors can be achieved by cycling the thermostat input On, Off then back On rather than power cycling. Whilst commissiong our system I've had the HP hydraulically isolated which stopped the HP circulating water and generated a CH14 error a few times. I'm intending to run with WC and use the thermostat as a temperature limiter rather than for control but switching it seems to be able to reset faults. The HP has a "forced run" feature to stop the pump seizing up which was configured to run the pump every day for a few minutes. I think it was this routine that caused the CH14 fault whilst I had the HP powered up but the water circuit isolated?? Not had the fault since so I'm making this diagnosis but keeping my fingers crossed!! On the subject of low flow, I've read few posts where people talk about cleaning the strainer inside the HP but very little mention of cleaning the magnetic filter that should be on the return pipework to the HP. If youve not got a mag filter, get one as they pick up lots of bits. Ours also has a fine mesh, much finer than the strainer in the HP so pretty much renders the HP strainer redundant. LGs documentation says a mag filter is mandatory, so if you've not got one ask your installer why not!!. I've seen few posts asking if it's possible to set back the HP flow temp overnight with the answer seemingly no. I'm not sure this is correct but I haven't tried it yet. There's a feature called "Energy state" which allows you to increase or decrease flow temperature/DHW temperature based on switching a pair of digital inputs or over modbus. This feature seems to be intended to be used dependant on a battery state but no reason the digital inputs can't be triggered by a timer to increase or decrease flow temps overnight or to match up with a TOU tariff? More investigation needed but looks viable. On the remote controller there's a button with a symbol of what I thought was a pointing finger with 2 hills in the background. I couldn't for the life of me work out what it was but it's a pair of lips and a finger saying "shhh"......puts the HP into quiet mode!! Couldn't see this in the user manual!! If you want a quick boost to DHW temp and have the HP set up to control your cylinder immersion you can activate the immersion from the remote control panel. Scroll through though the buttons to get the DHW selected(shower symbol) then use the On/Off button to switch on the DHW. Now press and hold the back button. After a few seconds a lightning bolt/electrical hazard symbol appears on the DHW button. I believe the the immersion will now be powered. Press and hold the DHW button again to turn it off. I don't have my immersion connected to the HP but this feature works anyway on my remote controller. Hope that helps anyone scratching their heads over their Therma V or at least points you in the right direction for some further research. More to follow as and when I come across them but feel free to add any quirks you've found but dont forget to reference your series number to make things meaningful.

Don't get too excited as I think that filter is for standalone devices only, not G100 certified inverters!

The ENA type test register allows you to filter by G100 device to that's worth having a look through