jayc89

I currently have a 25mm service void, just enough to run 15mm HEP pipe through, I also need a way of running 40mm waste pipe from one end of a room to another. I could stud the wall out further, creating a 50mm service void, or just run them on top of the PB, behind the utility room units. Within a service void would be cleaner, but access to any leaks would be a PITA, as would any relocation of services in the future. Where, possible should I run the waste pipes on top of the PB, behind the units etc, and only effectively box them into a service void where they would otherwise be on display? (Such as in the downstairs W/C between the basin and soil pipe)

Thanks @Nickfromwales. I used an online calc to try ensure I had enough for what I needed + 10% but it hasn't gone anywhere near as far, I probably need another full bag, which I'll do today. (Mapei 3240) Should I sand back the section that hasn't been done yet, but was SBR'd yesterday, and reapply that first?

Thanks @PeterW. After 4 coats with a paint roller it was looking much better. I’ve only gone and run out of SLC now!

I'm priming a screeded floor ready for a self-levelling compound. I've applied it as per the SBR instructions (3:1) but it's going really patching. The screed looks incredibly porous, the primer is disappearing within seconds and only patches of the screed are remaining white. Is this normal? Should I apply more/stronger coats of the SBR mix before the self-leveller?

Looks like another beer I owe you, cheers!

Thanks @Nickfromwales! Does this look better?

Something like this; Does that make sense, @Nickfromwales?

The bathroom supply comes from 22mm that is reduced down to 15mm so I have the choice of teeing from the 22mm with a 15mm reducer, or just using a 15mm tee further down the run. I assume teeing in at the 22mm pipe with a 15mm reducer would be the optimal solution, rather than teeing when it’s already been reduced to 15mm?

I need to tee into the pipework already in our bathroom for the runs into the utility room below. The current ones are all done in a cheap 15mm plastic pipe, with, what looks like, Toolstation's cheapest, fittings. I want to run at least the new stuff in HEP using HEP fixings. Will new HEP fixings and sleeves work with generic 15mm plastic piping?

I'm about to order the bits needed for our Utility and W/C plumbing. Does my plan sound right to you? Water Supply; - Existing 22mm HEP (hot and cold) running in ceiling for bath in bathroom above. - 15mm tee into for washing machine - 15mm tee into for toilet - 10mm tee into for basin I've heard that the washing machine and toilet should be plumbed in before the multibloc valve, is that correct? Doing so would be more of a faff (or not as easy as just teeing into HEP) Waste; - new 110mm stack for toilet - 40mm Y-shaped drain for washing machine + tumble dryer drain, with trap, feeding into new 110mm stack - 32mm condensate pipe from MVHR feeding into washing machine 40mm, before the existing trap, that goes into 110mm stack - 32mm drain for W/C basin, with trap, feeding into new 110mm stack

These were taken from - https://www.rehau.com/downloads/616194/rehau-specifier-guide-brochure.pdf

I'm considering Sliding Sash windows for part of our house (I appreciate they aren't the best for airtightness. I'm juggling cost, sympathetic renovation and efficiency). My local Rehau fabricator states the Sliding Sash frames can't be attached using Rehau fixing brackets and require screws through the frames. From the technical drawings I can't see a difference between the sliding sash and the TOTAL70 frames which can be fixed using brackets. I'm hoping the fabricator is mistaken, as they didn't even know what fixing brackets were when I first asked. Do we have any Rehau experts on here who might be able to advise?

Don't suppose you have any pictures? Google Street View etc?

Something like this; Certainly feels usable, which I guess is all you need for a utility room and a place to spend a penny!

But that's not possible with IWI, is it (dew point outside)? It will always be internally, somewhere, and the least worst location would be within the insulation, assuming it's foil faced, taped etc, so internal air can't reach it?

We had originally planned to make what is labelled "Store" our home office and partition what is labelled "dining" into a utility and w/c and extend the hallway around into the kitchen. But given that's a south facing window, it seems crazy to put a utility room in there.

Good thinking. I've circled the room in question, currently labelled "Store". It's approx 2.5m x 3.5m is West facing but has a pretty small window (approx 800mm x 800mm) so lightening isn't great for much, which is why I was wondering whether a downstairs W/C + Utility might be a good idea there, coupled with the services already being in that area... Thoughts/opinions welcome!

We have a downstairs room that's approx 2.5m x 3.5m, it's directly under the shared bathroom so has all the services accessible to be used as a wetroom/utility room. It's too large to just be used as a w/c but I was thinking it could be used as both a w/c and utility. Has anyone else done this? Would love to see some designs/layouts!

I've modelled my detail on both sites and both look pretty similar to me. I think the dew point on change plan is accurate.

I have a cold roof. Planning on running Intello Plus across the underneath of the floor joists, lapping over the VCL on the walls. You could use a plaster-able tape to secure it to the blockwork prior to wet plastering.

Not exactly the same, but I would have thought more expensive, I had our house re-wired 18 months ago, inc. chasing our brickwork etc, which took an age. Included data and aerials to all rooms, re-routing the phone line into a new "comms cupboard" and few other bits we added in (couple of extractor fans, hanging and wiring our staircase light etc). It came to just over £10k for both 1st and 2nd fix.

I've bought an MVHR unit off eBay and I need to get it shipped to me. I suspect pallet deliver would be cheaper. The seller will box the unit up. Are there any delivery services that will supply the pallet and secure the contents to it?

https://www.changeplan.co.uk/u_value_calculator.php If you register an account you get the graphics too.

Very similar to mine, but I have a 25mm service void too

The felt, or lack of, shouldn't provide the ventilation (originally I suspect the underside of the slates would have been lime torched), the ventilation should be coming from the eaves, so providing there's a clear path to/from them, you should be fine. Conversely, somewhat playing devils advocate, that ventilation could also be considered thermal bypass, you're essentially building a PIR tent.