jayc89

We have an old 15" door lining, which is probably as old as the house. It's near enough butted against the returning, external, wall so I want to reduce the width of it from 805mm to accommodate a standard 762mm door, and allow me to fit some insulation against that external wall (not much, admittedly, 37.5mm insulated PB might have to do). Given the existing lining is approx 380mm deep, I'm struggling to find an off the shelf replacement, having some timber cut to length is looking like it will cost approx £200 per stile, and I doubt the existing frame will come off in one piece to allow me to shorten the rail and bring the existing stile in. Anyone have any smarter ideas than sucking up the crazy cost of new timber?

Or do something like this; Blue being the existing pipe, green being the proposed new pipework; Elbow from the existing pipework, chased down the other side of the wall, teed into a length running to where I need it and back through a new hole into the bedroom (from whence it came), this end would be capped off, for now. Once I have access to both sides of the wall below, which I will, eventually. Below the bedroom, I can remove the stop end and use a straight connector to connect the source into the new green pipe, instead of up and through the wall. Then below the bathroom, I can remove the tee for another straight connector, rendering the pipework chased through the wall dead. Is that OTT? Is there a better method?

I have 22mm hot/cold pipes buried into the opposite side of the bathroom wall, which I now need to relocate, they penetrate through and connect into an old Ideal Trevi unit on the bathroom side of the wall. I want to extend the pipes by approx. 4m as part of relocating the bathroom, the side of the wall that they're buried into is a bedroom which I really don't want to disturb, and I can't access them from below either. The only option I can think of is to stick a couple of elbows into where they penetrate through the wall and chase them down the other side of it too, which feels... wrong. Does anyone have any better solutions?

how much did yours cost you? Just had a quote come in for that stuff at £2.5k!

Looking for some tiles like the ones behind the w/c here. From the image, there doesn't look like there are any joins between the floor and the recess. That would suggest they're pretty big for tiles (biggest I've seen is 120x60) Anyone know what they could be?

There seems to be a massive difference. Using Knauf Earthwool as an example, some online retailers selling it for £40 a roll and then there are some random fellas on Facebook Marketplace selling as much as I like for £20 a roll. WTF? How much more will I need? I've taken my surface area, doubled it (for 2x runs) and added 10%.

Need approx 250m2 of 200mm loft roll. I suspect by the pallet would be cheapest. Local BMs are all very similar. Any recommendations for the cheapest places I should be looking?

Here's where I'm at; The 2x4 behind it is just sitting loose currently, that + the existing 2x1 on the wall gives me enough of a void to fit the frame to. UFH below, so can't screw down, PIR behind, so the 80mm fixings supplied aren't long enough. I'm thinking; - Glue the 2x4 to the floor, fit the frame on top of that, screwing into the wood, not the screed - Either; - - Buy longer fixings and go straight through the PIR into the brick behind - - 2x4 behind the frame, secured through the brick using concrete screws and then secure the frame fixings to the timber What do you think would be best?

Nice. Followed by some sort of 90mm/110mm adapter to connect to standard 110mm soil pipe?

Great Something like this? https://www.wickes.co.uk/FloPlast-Soil-Pan-Straight-Extension-Pipe---White/p/431974

@NickfromwalesI got this one - https://www.plumb2u.com/geberit-1120mm-duofix-frame-delta-concealed-cistern-and-delta30-flush-plate-458119212-c2x39344840 - cheapest I could find. Will that cause me problems in a 4" stud frame? I could route the 40mm pipes externally, I was trying to avoid making multiple external holes that I need to make airtight again etc. @Mr Punter, I thought it comes with an 90 degree adaptor that converts from 90 to 110 (which in itself will be a PITA as I was hoping to go straight out the back, no bends)...

I'm internally insulating our house; solid brick wall, PIR, battens through. The floor is screeded with UFH, so no mechanical fixings down there. I'm planning on fitting a Geberit frame to an outside wall, the soil pipe will run straight out the back, and I have a couple of 40mm waste pipes to connect via boss straps too. The 40mm pipes will come from both left and right of the stud work I need to build for the toilet frame, so I assume I'll need to notch it out. Rudimentary diagram; Notching a 4x2 stud wall out by 40mm (nearly 50%) doesn't seem right. Should I bring the stud work out 50mm to allow the waste pipes to run behind (I.e. use 6x2 head and sole plates and 4x2 studs flush with the front)? Will the stud work mechanically fixed to the external wall on the left, returning stud wall on the right and the ceiling joists and glued to the floor above be enough? Any better ideas?

Planning on buying a GROHE Rapid SL frame. All the images suggest the soil pipe runs at 90 degrees from the frame, but I'd ideally want to run mine straight through the wall behind the frame (which is an external wall with the SVP about 300mm away) Is this possible? Will I need to order a different pan connector?

Are you removing the stack because it's actually causing problems, or purely because the surveyor suggested doing so? If it aint broke, don't fix it. It's quite easy to go gung-ho when you're looking at a renovation like this, it's the quick way of sinking that 120k budget quite easily.

Anyone got any? Something that can open/close dusk till dawn etc? Ideally something that works with Alexa and that's hard wired so I don't have to change batteries.

WDYT, @Nickfromwales? Behind the W/C feels like it could get pretty congested without building it out a fair way? (It'll be a wall hung W/C unit, so I'll need to frame it out anyway)

So here's my plan of attack; 2x rooms; utility and W/C 32mm from basin waste 40mm from utility washing machine and sink 110mm from W/C SVP is directly behind the W/C location, so a straight run out the wall with a 92.5 degree elbow + branch should work fine there 2x boss straps on the 110mm on the internal side of the wall, one with a 32mm adapter and the other with a 40mm adapter, for the other basin/utility waste to connect to Utility waste to be hidden behind units Basin waste to be boxed in. Seems logical to me, does it make sense to everyone else? Is there anything I've missed?

In part of our house we have hardcore, sand, DPM, Conc, PIR, membrane, screed. For the extension I plan on; hardcore, sand, EPS, DPM, conc + mesh. Which will allow me to avoid paying extra for any screed.

Yeah. There's a wood lintel behind the arch course, so I plan on filling that void with PU foam prior to sticking the trim on. I just need to know what I should be asking for.

What should I be asking for? Trim above window for an brick-arched opening?

I'm no good with technical terms, I'm sure there was a shorter topic title to be had! I have a couple of windows that don't have any structural lintels, but the bricks are on ends and arched across the top of them, supporting themselves. This kind of thing; I'm going to replace them, but the windows I'll be fitting are square, I need a bit of trim that I can cut to follow the curve of the arch as an infill. Anyone know what these are called and what the best way of cutting them to follow the curve is?

I have 13 windows to fit. I won't be doing them all at the same time, likely over the course of 6 months. I plan to use Illbruck's i3 Sealing System (compriband, foam, tape). Can I buy all the gear now and will the compriband last that long (I read something about keeping it in the fridge, is that a thing?)?

It turns out a family friend is the manager at a local branch of a national plumber's merchant. He managed to get me a quote for some parts I need; HEP20 pipe + fittings, various waste pipes + fittings and a Geberit Frame + Cistern, applying, what he said was the max discount he can (and given the discount levels noted on the estimate, I don't have any reason to think he's being dishonest when he says that). Even with that level of discount applied, I can still get the vast majority of the items cheaper from various online retails, the HEP20 gear for example, 30% cheaper! WTF is that about? How do these local branches stay afloat, ease of use?

We have a room where the internal walls are back to brick. We previously had similar walls in other rooms plastered using bonding followed by multi-finish. Where this has been done, there are quite a few nasty cracks, which we've been told are down to the suction not being controlled properly (they don't look structural, at all). I will be getting someone else in to do the plastering. I've heard of using PVA, hardwall, slurry mix, sand/cement etc. How should I be asking them to tackle these walls?

Solid slab is already down. In hindsight, I'd have ran all the waste pipes prior to that, including a hidden soil pipe.