jayc89

Ever considered a job in sales?

Looks like they come in 2x sizes. 100mm to fit a 3x2 stud wall + 12.5mm PB each side or 125mm to fit a 4x2 stud wall with 12.5mm PB each side. Also seen people suggest lining with ply first. Should I go for the 125mm frame and use 4x2 and PB straight over, or 125mm frame with a 3x2 stud wall and a layer of ply before PB? @pocster seems like you’ve had fun with these frames before?

Anyone heard of these? https://www.eclisse.co.uk/syntesis-flush-single-pocket-door-system-new-sizing/

The room's approx 4.5 x 2.5. The door is on the longer wall, so a pocket or slider would work. There is to be nothing within the stud wall other than sound insulation and the UFH controller for the bathroom, which I can fix at the opposite side. In fact a pocket might be nice as it could took away behind what will become the shower area in the bathroom, so otherwise wasted wall space. Any recommendations on decent manufacturers I should look at?

Our en-suite is pretty tight, I wouldn’t fancy a standard door opening either into it, or the wardrobe at the other side. Any recommendations for sliding doors? Are they any good? Preferably frameless, glazed (frosted) and one that can be locked.

I need to route 4x 90mm ducts through our ensuite stud wall down to the ground floor. I have two options; - 6x2 studs, used to brace the wall mounted toilet, vanity units, used for recessed shelving etc, but is at the furthest end of the room, so will add an additional 5m to each duct run - 4x2 studs, used for the partition wall between the ensuite and wardrobe. More central in the house, so smaller duct runs, but technically the 4x2 is 89mm thick, so it will be a squeeze getting the ducts in (and no room for acoustic sound batts, either...) I'm leaning towards the former and just accepting the longer runs. Any other suggestions?

In hindsight that would have been a better idea. Luckily I don't have any more narrow rooms to content with.

Window board on and skimmed last week. The finish looks pretty rough to me, appreciate around the window board will be a PITA as there isn't much room, but there's rough to the touch bits around all of the window reveal. The guy who did it said the reveal needs a light rub down and he's coming back to look at the bits around the window board. Am I being OTT?

I live in a flood risk zone 2 area, it's never flooded, never will, barring some dykes, the nearest water source is some 7 miles away, yet local guidelines point blank refuse any new developments with cellars etc. Shame really as I'd have liked a bit of a man cave in the extension. If I was doing one, I'd be using ICF below ground.

Flex looks massively cheaper. I'll go with that

Running 4x ceiling speakers from the en-suite/Wardrobe to my imitation systems room (cupboard under the stairs). Speakers are IP6 rated, so good for the en-suite. Longest run is approx. 12m. Sonos suggests 16AWG cable is good for up to 15m runs, should I go for 14AWG to be on the safe side? Any recommendations on a certain brand of speaker cable? Amp is 2 channel; left and right, so I assume I'm best running a feed from each speaker back to the amp, rather than any sort of daisy chaining?

I started with a manual Stanley staple gun, worked fine, but was time consuming. Upgraded to an 18 gauge Dewalt. If you have an air compressor, a staple attachment would likely be cheaper. I had some Tykek AirGuard in places which had a tendency to rip so, for belts and braces, I taped over my staple runs with Pro Clima Tescon Vana too.

Yeah, I almost want that so I can have a decent shower above all else I do agree that option 2 would be "preferred"

Still leaning towards option 1 unless anyone can persuade me otherwise (and I'm easily swayed....)

Phew!

I've stuck a bit of plasterboard to the top of a window reveal, braced it with a couple of lengths of timber and screwed into battens where I can. I'd general use a PU adhesive, which dries in 10-15 minutes but I'm fresh out. How long will I need to leave the bracing up before I can attend to the sides? (please don't say 24 hours )

Thanks. Next question. I have 25mm window boards. What bit do I need to bullnose the returns?

I did come across this - https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-pof-1200-ae-1200w-8mm-electric-router-230v/32549 - which is pretty cheap, but I have no idea whether there's other more suitable alternatives out there for what I need. I'm assuming it would do the trick.

Totally router novice. Need one for finishing window boards. Doesn't have to be anything fancy, I do need to chase out the bottom of one board to fit over a batten that's slightly proud, so a guard rail would be useful. Any suggestions?

Starting to think about our en-suite now. We currently have a couple of pipes that run under the floor; - Hot and cold to kitchen below (ancient pipes, at least 30 years old, I believe they're 15mm copper, or equivalent). Water in the kitchen sink takes an age to run hot/cold, so something not quite right here. Run is approx. 18m. I believe these pipes also service the existing en-suite basin/toilet/bath. - Hot and cold to existing shower (22mm HEP fitted, last year, direct to the Trevi mixer). These two certainly don't do anything but service the shower. Selfishly, my priority is the shower, I want that to take priority if anything else is calling for water upstream. So with that in mind, I think a single 15mm tee from our existing 22mm to service "everything else" would be my best bet; But, based on advice I had when doing our Utility room, I think having all outlet's teeing into the 22mm would be the "proper" way to do things; The kitchen will have sink, dishwasher and cold outlet for the fridge. Utility room and downstairs W/C has been tee'd off already downstream on the existing 22mm HEP. Thoughts, opinions? Alternatives?

Do away with the screed and have the concrete as your finished floor. Use the space saving for more insulation.

Something like that would work, but I want to drain straight into a waste pipe, not run anything else externally. Could I use a 22mm compression fitting to join the existing 22mm copper going to my UFH to a 21.5mm condensate pipe and then connect that to the 40mm waste?

When I had our boiler moved a few months ago, the wally who did it decided to not re-fit the drain tap. Right now I can manage by draining from a downstairs radiator, but I'll soon replace that with UFH, so I need to install a drain tap somewhere. The best place would be in the understair cupboard, just before the UFH pump, but to actual drain I'd need to run a hose pipe through the house. At the otherside of the understair cupboard wall will be the basin in our downstairs W/C. The waste pipe for that is to be boxed in, could I fit some sort of permanent pipe from the drain tape into my 40mm basin waste? Perhaps using 21.5mm condensate pipe or similar?

Walls are pretty deep, need 350mm boards. Deepest I can find locally are 300, which wouldn't provide any overhang.

Dropped a ball with the internal window boards, they won't be here for another couple of weeks. Can I PB the rest of the reveal, have that skimmed and slide the window board in later? I assume, ideally, the PB would sit on top of the board?